Le Banh Patisserie: Stunning French Pastry That Delights ALL The Senses

Kristin L. Wolfe October 20, 2020

2020 has at least made carbs, especially of the bready sort, sexy again. So, for this, I am thankful. Many have proven that by turning their kitchens into mini-bakeries this year. My cousin in PA, a lawyer by day, has posted about 100 pics of golden crusted sourdough; my neighbor, a sound engineer for Broadway--sadly all too quiet-- has added to my...eh hem...curves, with his newfound bagel prowess. I keep thinking I should buy stock in King Arthur Flour, then I forget amidst my food coma. Anyway, yay us for taking such a horrible time and at least turning a piece of it into something productive and tasty.

BUT, none of us have anything on Chef Kim Hoàng Wood and the real masterpieces coming out of Le Banh Patisserie kitchen. Just one afternoon with her, watching as she orchestrates her kitchen and the magic that comes out of it, I understand the difference between our hobbies and those who emit greatness. But that greatness, those masterpieces, have come from devotion, and true hard work.

Born in Vietnam, she came to the States as a little girl with her parents and five siblings. So, there in Fort Worth, Texas, she and her family created a new home. Out of that busy home, came Wood’s desire to stand out and dream big. She earned a business degree from University of Oklahoma then specialized in French Pastry at the Art Institute of Houston.

And, like all serious scholars, she studied under a master, Executive French Pastry Chef Frédéric Larre, a member of the Académie Culinaire de France, whom she remains close to even today. “It is important to have a mentor who will be honest with you and really push you to keep improving.” We talked about growing up in a time when not everyone got a trophy; you really had to hustle and push to stand out.

The way she whirls around her kitchen, you can tell she does not stop until things are right; and she keeps moving and doing so with a sense of rhythm but calm. She doesn’t have the frantic energy you see in some kitchens. Wood knows what she is doing. And to top it off, she is doing all this, while talking to me about ingredients, process, equipment, and wtf that makes French Pastry so much better than any other on the planet. [ok those are my words, but she is partial. I mean, duh, she specialized in it and it is what she sells!]

I was already about to pass out after my first bite of the Cannelés Bordelais (which may be my absolute favorite). When you first see it, it looks like it might be heavy and dense, and yet it was light as air and with depth of flavor. Caramelized crust with a smooth, custardy center and hints of vanilla and rum. I wanted a dozen immediately, and yet wait. They are French. Savor, savor, savor.

We then went onto the cake for which she makes trays and trays of in order to cut out the layers for her signature banh, which is simply ‘cake’ in Vietnamese. She makes both minis and full size banh from a sumptuous moist batter. We spoke for quite awhile about batters and buttercreams and what makes the French version of those so truly distinct. “It really is about quality ingredients and technique.” As more of a savory enthusiast, what I love so much about Wood’s treats is they give you just enough sweet without overpowering your palate. So very French, Oui? Subtle, but unforgettable.

Banh-kin Patch Bread--a Pain Au Lait (Milk Bread) seasoned with pumpkin and spices, and stuffed with pumpkin pie filling

Wood did not just sail from her pastry studies to her own business. She really dug in under her mentor, spent time as Pastry Sous Chef at Exxon Mobil headquarters in Houston, then at Foxwoods here in CT. And as many of us do, who are transplants to Connecticut, she fell in love with local farmers and their sense of community, and the tremendous treasure that is quality ingredients at your fingertips.

In the midst of starting a family and starting over professionally, Wood has been so thankful to find Hands on Hartford, an extraordinary organization with so many services for the community. Wood was able to rent space through their Shared Use Kitchen program for small business owners. Thankfully Wood was able to start the process pre-pandemic to create her menu and perfect her products. She now rents space from another commercial kitchen in Canton. “We are a French Pastry delivery service.” Until the next step someday when she has her own store front.

Once Wood carves out the layers for the banh, she adds a drop of moisture--a secret of course--then uses the excess to make decorative Banhsicles, which, I dare say put any other cake pop I’ve tried to shame. Imagine a few hours in a place like this. Cake batter, buttercream, vanilla, and cinnamon. You really do float around in a haze of sugary goodness.

From a stunning bouquet of burnt orange roses, she meticulously pulled petals for her Fleur Sablé cookies. One bite of these buttery baby shortbreads, you will instantly feel the need to organize a tea party--6-feet apart of course. And with actual flower petals baked on top, they just feel so fancy and are Oh So Pretty.

Speaky of pretty. Every morsel Wood delivers is exquisitely packaged. From golden ribbons to her labels, to the deliberately clear boxes, Wood thinks of every detail. “I’m inspired by minimalism and something Steve Jobs talked about. Everything must have a use, a reason, a place.” She also believes she is in the business of delivering happiness. One look at her instagram page and her reviews and you know that is indeed the case. Each product feels like a present in which she has thought of everything that will conjure a smile. Oh, and on that...she does every single thing herself...for now.

Le Banh Patisserie is truly top notch. As I type she has just launched her seasonal Banh-kin Patch Bread--a Pain Au Lait (Milk Bread) seasoned with pumpkin and spices, and stuffed with pumpkin pie filling. I’ll likely be running out for that asap. And, if that is not all, she’ll be whipping up tarts for the Winter.

So, 2020 can’t be over fast enough, and yet there are still reasons to celebrate. Le Banh Patisserie is a small, yet tremendously scrumptious one.

Le Banh Patisserie
@lebanh.patisserie
860.264.5970
lebanh.com