When trying to come up with the “what is it?” as it pertains to his new pizzeria in Greenwich’s Glenville section, Joe Criscuolo uttered the phrase, “it’s the evolution of the neighborhood slice shop, without the slices.” That’s exactly what Luca’s Pizzeria—named after Joe’s father, who founded the legendary Pizza Post in Cos Cob back in 1972—is all about. You won’t find doughy pizza that sits in your stomach like a brick. No wilted, colorless salads either. The cheesesteak, served on pizza bread? It’s not as dry as cardboard.
And to think, Criscuolo, who you don’t only know from his family’s Pizza Post, but Meatball & Co. in Darien, almost didn’t open anything. The reality is, he almost left the state, and country, altogether.
Back in 2018 when Christian Burns opened Evarito’s on the corner of N Main Street, just past the 50 Washington Street building, “Hola!” was the restaurant’s catchy little social media term. Six years later, Burns, and the public, can say “Hola!” to the new concept that inhabits 14 N Main, The Pompano.
Before we get to what The Pompano is all about, a lot of folks are itching to know why Evarito’s is no more after announcing its last days earlier in 2024. While there were a few factors, the simplest answer is they never fully got back on track financially after 2020.
“We just did OK,” Burns explains. “We were popping in 2019. In the winter, we still had a crowd. Then we never really popped out of COVID the same way. 2021 came and it was less (customers). 2022 came and it was even less. I knew it was time for a change and I thought Evarito’s had run its course.”
Burns—who you know from The Ginger Man and Cask Republic locations—had to think about if he wanted to relaunch the Evarito’s space, and if so, what would he want it to be. Travel was that inspiration. If Evarito’s was inspired by Burns’ trips to and love of various parts of Mexico, his new idea for a restaurant would be a New England seafood restaurant meets a South Florida seafood restaurant.
When Antojos closed at the tail end of 2023, it left a void in Norwalk as it pertains to Colombian fast food. Yeah, you know what I’m talking about; those humongous hamburgers, those loaded hot dogs, and massive orders of fries topped with every ingredient imaginable. Seemingly appearing out of thin air to answer those prayers was La Colombina Burger, that unbeknownst to me (and I’m sure a bunch of you) opened last July very under the radar, in a little strip of stores, in a parking lot I hadn’t pulled into since Tony’s Pet Shop was there all those years ago. The Tony’s shout is for the Norwalk heads. IYKYK.
While driving (read, stuck in traffic) along I-95 in New Haven, right by the IKEA, how many of you have noticed the rectangular cubed shaped building with the small windows and the void almost in the middle? You’ve clearly seen it countless times. But if you’re like me, you probably always wondered “what the heck is it?”
Designed by modernist architect, Marcel Breuer, the building in question which began construction in 1968 and was completed in 1970, was the home of the Armstrong Rubber Company first, then Pirelli Tire in the late 80s into the late 90s. After Pirelli vacated, the space sat vacant for a long time. IKEA purchased it in 2003—and removed a piece of it— and owned it until 2019 when it was purchased by the development firm, Becker + Becker, who would develop it into a net zero energy hotel, that right now, is operated by Hilton Hotels’ Tapestry brand. But within this hotel, there is a restaurant. And that restaurant has to operate like its hotel does, completely sustainable. And at this restaurant, that’s named BLDG, they needed a chef at the helm who believes in all of this through and through.
Barbecue is one of those things that people will travel for. Just over the Connecticut line, specifically in Bedford Hills, is a small, mostly takeout BBQ “shack” in a residential neighborhood, that’s actually not too far of a drive for folks in Stamford, Greenwich, Ridgefield, New Canaan, and their surrounding areas.
Those looking to warm up courtesy of a bread bowl of broccoli cheddar soup at 1860 Post Road E in Westport will have to look elsewhere for their Panera fix as the space is now occupied by Hungry Pot, a Korean BBQ and hot pot restaurant. The Westport location of Hungry Pot—which had their grand opening on February 8—is the fifth one of its kind. There are currently four in Connecticut (Danbury, Wethersfield, Manchester, and now Westport) and one in Dartmouth, Massachusetts with a sixth restaurant opening soon in Natick, MA.
If last year’s article on Taco Guy was the first “movie,” Super Taqueria Las Salsas is the sequel that’s actually a prequel. I’ll explain.
Taco Guy’s owner, Adrian Hurtado—who for this I’m going to use his middle name, Christtian, because that’s what he goes by if you know him—introduced a group of us to his father, Gil Salvador Perez Hurtado, back in March of 2023 at his dad’s restaurant, Super Taqueria Las Salsas. Christtian, you see, wanted us to know where he came from, where he learned his hard-working ethic from, and to introduce us to carnitas, something that has been in the Hurtado Family since 1931 in the Mexican state of Michoacán, where their family is from, and is also the birthplace of carnitas.
“My grandfather, Salvador, started it, but in the restaurant industry, I’m second generation,” Christtian says.
On certain days on or in the vicinity of Greenwich Avenue, take a whiff of the air and the woods you smell are in fact oak and hickory. Get a little closer to Mason Street and you’ll spot blue smoke coming off a Lang and that smell won’t just be logs, it’ll be…meaty.
Towards the end of the 2023 edition of summer, Emily Mingrone’s restaurant, Tavern On State, posted a strikingly beautiful ube tart set in a vanilla cookie crust, topped with a dollop of whipped yogurt and grapefruit segments, stating that “it’s the most addictive item on our dessert menu.”
The creator of the purple pie slice that received a lot of Instagram attention in terms of likes and comments is Andrea Clark of Little Gem CT.
Once you try Alejandra Aguilar Gonzaga’s food at Momma’s Tacos in New Milford, you’ll sense the soul that’s in it. Talk to her even ever so briefly about her story and you’ll get a glimpse of her strong will, determination, and passion.
Catch Alejandra in her soon-to-be three-year-old restaurant. She’s in the back cooking her mostly Mexico City inspired recipes, she’s always smiling and talking to her several regular customers, and frequently asks for feedback on the food served at Momma’s Tacos.
Jeff Taibe had a big 2023. Not only did Taibe relocate his six-year Bethel restaurant, Taproot, to South Norwalk, he received much deserved recognition at December’s edition of the CRAzies Awards in the form of a “Best Restaurant Fairfield County” win.
A few days after I interviewed owner and bartender, Alan Heron of the Flying Scotsman, he posted one of the portraits I captured of him on Instagram along with the caption, “Mediocre service guaranteed.”
When I visited Fryborg in 2023 for a follow up article on its new Trumbull location and expanded menu, owner Johnathan Gibbons tossed me a tidbit that I teased at the end of that piece about a weekend morning pop up featuring something sweet.
Go up or down Bridgeport’s North Avenue roughly a mile or so before or after the Fairfield town line and you’ll notice a neon blue awning with an emoji-like sandwich logo paired with the words “The Torta Shop” printed on it.
What’s not new, however, are the owners. Mariella Garcia and her husband Jose Santiago previously owned the bodega since 2017. Around a year and a half ago, the couple decided to flip the concept into something different.
“We’re originally from Oaxaca, then we came to Norwalk, and my husband and I moved to Bridgeport in 2016,” Garcia says. “In 2017 we got the grocery store and thought about switching it up over the years and wanted to make a bigger change. We wanted to bring this to Bridgeport. And there are a lot of Mexican restaurants here, but we wanted to focus on tortas, Mexican sandwiches. Other places do it, but we want to be known as a tortarilla.”
It was about time this ridiculous, limited (but slowly working on more) series returned to bring you more of the weird, bizarre, and funny tales in the restaurant industry.
And while edition number one was a hodgepodge of stories from chefs that you know in the general area, this version has a focus…
PIZZERIAS!
This one’s got a few longer stories that I promise are worth reading, a Wu Tang sighting, one video of a chef busting his ass, and plenty of weird customer orders.
And if you’re wondering what volume three might look like, we’re hitting up bartenders because we know there’s plenty of tea there.
Roll into the former Davinci’s Pizza (or Cosmos if we take it back to 1985) at 60 Connecticut Avenue, and it’s a way different vibe than it used to be.
Quirky artificial intelligence cartoons, featuring pizza, are pasted in the entryway. Sawed off cookbook bindings are the art on the walls. A black and white photo of Marco Pierre White stares at you if you glance to your right.
I can count on one finger how many times I’ve had a smoked cheeseburger in our general area.
The smoked burger is seemingly elusive. My first came in 2019, in Irvington, at a BBQ joint that’s no longer there. I’m not saying it’s impossible to find one, I’m just saying it’s rare—that’s an on-purpose meat pun.
In Connecticut, two spots where you absolutely can find a smoky, beefy, beast of a burger, are Hoodoo Brown BBQ and Hindsight Barbecue that were both recently named in terrific piece on Texas Monthly (link HERE) that you absolutely should read.
Oyster Club in Mystic, its alter ego concept, Treehouse, and their sister cocktail and bites bar, The Port of Call, aren’t only popular in Connecticut, but they’ve received some serious national coverage, including a 2023 James Beard nomination for chef Renee Touponce.
Part of the restaurant group’s stellar squad is pastry chef Jessica Spivey, who just received a nod of her own as she was nominated for Best Pastry Chef by the Connecticut Restaurant Association for its annual CRAzies Awards.
