Have a conversation with Seleste Tan for just a few minutes and the word that comes to mind is “humble.” Tan’s bakery, Lady Wong Patisserie, with two locations in New York City, speaks about it like she never expected it to be the megahit that it is. “I did it for a hobby during the pandemic and I never thought it would be big,” she says shyly. Her confections, inspired by flavors from her home country of Singapore, and travels throughout Southeast Asia, are her muse. And that hobby? It turned into national coverage in all the big food publications and then some.
Everything you’ve heard about Adrian Hurtado and his Taco Guy brand opening a new taqueria in Norwalk are true, even if some of the details weren’t originally clear or correct.
Numero tres for Hurtado, if we’re counting the taco truck first, then his Wall Street spot second, is Tacos 203, not Carnitas Michoacán, regardless of what you may have heard. Tacos 203 will be inside of Metro-North’s South Norwalk Station and the concept won’t resemble the fare that Hurtado’s fans have experienced from the truck or his restaurant.
No trip to The Cottage is complete without…IT. At least one, but probably two. Fans of Brian Lewis’ flagship restaurant in Westport (and in Greenwich in recent years) know that I’m talking specifically about the wagyu brisket bao buns, a day one appetizer (though I could eat these as my main course) when Lewis opened in 2015. The buns have had their share of the spotlight, too, as they’ve been gushed about in TheNew York Times, Forbes, and countless local news sites and blogs.
On the heels of their quarter century anniversary, Bailey’s Backyard, and its original and forever owner, Sal Bagliavio have a sequel. And no, it’s not following in the exact footsteps of Bailey’s—one of Connecticut O.G. farm-to-table restaurants. Ristorante numéro dos for Bagliavio and chef/partner Forrest Pasternack, who returned to Bailey’s recently, are entering the world of tacos with Taco Dia—because every day is taco day, not just Tuesdays.
If you’re at least a little familiar with Bailey’s, Bagliavio and Pasternack entering the realm of Mexican cuisine isn’t that shocking. Bailey’s is very New American, and if you’ve eaten there, Mexican pops up on the menu frequently, and especially on their Wednesday night Market Table tasting menu.
Last month, Greenwich welcomed to the area Constantino’s Pasta Bowls, a family-owned and operated fast-casual restaurant with a unique take on Italian cuisine. Robyn Bordes and her husband, Michael, are also the owners of the beloved Constantino’s Pizza and Ice Cream on Putnam Ave and Love You a Latte (located right next to Constantino’s Pasta Bowls).
Robyn Bordes has worked in the food industry since she was 13 years old, starting as a waitress and eventually working her way up to restaurant business owner. She purchased the popular Villaggio’s Italiano Restaurant in Hartsdale and owned it for several years until she decided to sell it in 2020. In 2022, Bordes and her husband brought their expertise to Greenwich and opened Constantino’s Pizza and Ice Cream, which had previously been the location of Stateline Deli. Now, just two years later, the couple decided to expand their empire by bringing a new style of Italian food to the Greenwich community.
If you’ve dined around the Connecticut restaurant scene with regularity, it’s pretty common to see familiar chef faces. Edgar Marcial is one of those.
Just under two years ago, Marcial opened exactly the type of spot he was looking for in Downtown New Haven.
And what he’s doing at Tacos Los Gordos is all love.
And judging from the waves of customers that wander in here and smash tacos and wash them down with a Mexican Coke out of his vintage Coca-Cola cooler, they’re loving it, too.
What’s represented, taco wise, is from all parts of Mexico: carnitas from Michoacán, beef birria from Tijuana, of course crispy cod taco that reps Baja and SoCal, and al pastor, cooked on a spit, from Mexico City that’ll immediately catch your eye upon entry.
When trying to come up with the “what is it?” as it pertains to his new pizzeria in Greenwich’s Glenville section, Joe Criscuolo uttered the phrase, “it’s the evolution of the neighborhood slice shop, without the slices.” That’s exactly what Luca’s Pizzeria—named after Joe’s father, who founded the legendary Pizza Post in Cos Cob back in 1972—is all about. You won’t find doughy pizza that sits in your stomach like a brick. No wilted, colorless salads either. The cheesesteak, served on pizza bread? It’s not as dry as cardboard.
And to think, Criscuolo, who you don’t only know from his family’s Pizza Post, but Meatball & Co. in Darien, almost didn’t open anything. The reality is, he almost left the state, and country, altogether.
Nestled among the charming mom-and-pop shops on Sound Beach Avenue in sleepy Old Greenwich, Sushi Bar is turning out some of the highest quality sushi we’ve tried in Connecticut. Two years ago, Chef Rio Yonathan quietly opened his restaurant and changed the Fairfield County sushi scene for the better. Using ultra-premium ingredients from near and far, such as Montauk whitefish and fresh wasabi from Shizuoka prefecture in Japan, Yonathan puts immense effort into fabricating almost everything from scratch. Luckily for us, the fruits of his labor have created an epicurean destination with the accessibility and family-friendliness of a neighborhood haunt.
Yonathan’s story is nothing short of inspiring: 20 years ago, after immigrating from Indonesia, he worked as a busser to fund English classes in New York City with his sights set on a law degree. Observing sushi chefs in their element, he fell in love with the cuisine and changed course, shadowing them on his own time for two years before he was allowed to touch a piece of fish “the old school way.” After attending culinary school, he cooked at Aquavit and Morimoto and then landed a job as head sushi chef at foodservice giant Compass Group. During Covid, he found himself working at a Japanese restaurant in Greenwich and was inspired to open Sushi Bar down the road.
On certain days on or in the vicinity of Greenwich Avenue, take a whiff of the air and the woods you smell are in fact oak and hickory. Get a little closer to Mason Street and you’ll spot blue smoke coming off a Lang and that smell won’t just be logs, it’ll be…meaty.
Once you try Alejandra Aguilar Gonzaga’s food at Momma’s Tacos in New Milford, you’ll sense the soul that’s in it. Talk to her even ever so briefly about her story and you’ll get a glimpse of her strong will, determination, and passion.
Catch Alejandra in her soon-to-be three-year-old restaurant. She’s in the back cooking her mostly Mexico City inspired recipes, she’s always smiling and talking to her several regular customers, and frequently asks for feedback on the food served at Momma’s Tacos.
An all-new Dim Sum brunch launches on Sunday, February 11th with food and drink specials honoring Lunar New Year traditions. The celebratory launch event will also include a Lion Dance performance and one-of-a-kind souvenirs.
Traditionally, the Lunar New Year is a 15-day celebration and concludes with a lantern festival marking the end of the celebrations. To honor their native traditions, award-winning restaurateurs K Dong and Chef Steven Chen will celebrate at their newest restaurant MŌLÌ (moligreenwich.com) with the launch of a new dim sum brunch menu and a live Lion Dance performance on Sunday, February 11th at 1:00 p.m. The team partnered with Fashion Designer and Philanthropist, Andy Yu to elevate the celebration and infuse a whimsical dish to the new Sunday brunch menu.
I was recently lucky enough to find myself in the small town of East Hampton, CT on the day of their annual Harvest Stroll. While there were supposed to be several food offerings at this annual event, the rain kept most of them away. Thankfully for me and my fellow rainy (and hangry) day adventurers, Jayy’s Little Red Trailer was not afraid to get wet…and seriously flavorful!
Offering strictly comfort food, Chef Jayy Riera and her wife Tamara Riera have been running this food truck for a little over a year. The pair travel all over Connecticut to cater weddings, birthday bashes, office parties, apple orchards, and even ski resorts. Notably, Jayy and her crew catered a few healthcare facilities this past spring during National Nurses Week. Jayy and Tamara definitely stay busy as they travel around and cook for the people of Connecticut, so I asked them what their favorite experience has been thus far and they both had the same answer: they get to meet and interact with all types of people and the food they serve is so different from what customers are used to getting from food trucks. Jayy’s excitement and her love of cooking exudes from her food and her presence. While I was secretly hoping to try everything on the menu, I did not want to appear too…gluttonous? She insisted that try everything, and she’s the boss so I was in no position to break the rules.
hef David Teyf is poised for his closeup. Two years after unveiling his elevated kosher delicatessen, Greenwich & Delancey in Cos Cob, Teyf is confident that he has perfected his vision. "I want to be the first place to take this type of food to a Michelin level," he declares with determination. Drawing on his classical culinary training from Le Cordon Bleu Paris, he seamlessly applies haute cuisine techniques to Eastern European Jewish classics with standout results, like his meticulously crafted pastrami (carved tableside with the reverence normally accorded to prime rib), pillowy pelmeni (chicken dumplings), and the perfect bowl of matzo ball soup.
In the latter part of July, I covered the opening of Taco Guy and owner Adrian Hurtado. If you read THAT article, towards the end of it, I alluded to the wood burning pizza oven being used at some point.
If you’re a regular to Taco Guy like I have been, I’m sure you’ve asked Hurtado if he was going to fire that oven up. Well, friends, that time is now.
We recently had the pleasure of visiting Siren Restobar in Old Greenwich Connecticut. Owner Anshu Vidyarthi opened this new Mediterranean-inspired eatery in August. No stranger to the restaurant world, Vidyarthi is also the co-owner of Le Penguin and Le Fat Poodle with business partner Antoine Blech. Siren is his first solo project.
The tapas restaurant takes on flavors from throughout the Mediterranean region, and Siren’s culinary range extends to include influences from Syria, Turkey, Sardinia, Morocco, and Lebanon to name just a few.
Vidyarthi’s desire with Siren was to create serious food but whimsically. He doesn’t take himself too seriously and would prefer that you didn’t either. Siren serves the type of food that people who are well-fed and well-travelled are looking for. The authenticity of every dish is evident in every mouthful, simple ingredients that create a depth of flavor. One needn’t overcomplicate things.
In 2018 I headed to Cos Cob to meet Frederico Perandin and his wife Anissa Nouhi at the location of their brand new restaurant, Il Pastificio, adored by all in the Greenwich area.
Born and raised in Padova, Italy, the founder of a successful Italian advertising agency, Federico Perandin moved to Greenwich in 2016 where he immediately fell in love with the town, the scenery and the lively international community.
In 2022 Perandin and Nouhi found a second home for Il Pastificio in Westport. Initially it was to serve as a market of sorts with its take out menu, but that changed when, after closing for a month over the summer for some light construction, a new sit-down eatery was born. The new restaurant is best described as rustic chic. Its elevated casual atmosphere offers guests a comfortable setting dressed in pale yellows and woods in which they can linger comfortably over Frederico’s authentic recipes, steeped in tradition alongside a healthy serving of Prosecco and conversation.
When looking for a place that’s special The Cottage often tops the list of recommendations with its focus on excellence and elevated dishes that that are creative, stunning and delicious. The Cottage in Westport has been a staple of the restaurant scene since its inception in 2015. In 2022 Brian Lewis opened a second location in Greenwich and it has taken the restaurant scene there by storm. While the vibe in Greenwich is different with a more casual setting, it offers something that Westport doesn’t: lunch. And the lunch scene in Greenwich is bustling. The lunchtime menu is streamlined but not at all limited. In fact it’s really quite varied considering its size, featuring dishes that appeal to a wide range of tastes and diets.
So this taco and this pizza walk into an Indian joint…
Darbar India located in Branford, Connecticut is a family run business that has been a staple of the Branford community, serving authentic Indian cuisine for nearly 30 years. Sunny, Vinny and their father Haresh Nariyani took over the business in 2008 and this past January they relocated to its current location on Montowese Street.
When we were invited to check them out we naturally had to scope out their Instagram account which was filled with images of pizzas and tacos! Whaaaaat??? We really had to go see what this was all about.
Inside we found a small, modern space flanked by quintessentially Indian artifacts and figurines, punctuated by their fish pond. While the decor might be simple, it’s the food that steals the show. Darbar prides themselves on their traditional flavors and cooking styles. While Sunny and Vinny were both born in the states, Haresh did not come over until 1990.
Dave Portnoy’s 8.2 score of Grigg Street’s popular sour dough pizza was ehhh…good. Could’ve been higher even by a smidge in my opinion, but anything in the “8s” is a fine rating.
What Dave wasn’t wrong about, though, was scoring Grigg’s cheesesteak a full point higher at a 9.2, and despite being on a major pizza eating and scoring tour, he kept going back for another bite, saying, “This is great. You weren’t fuckin’ around.”
Portnoy dove in with his mouth. I’m about to dive into this haute “Philly” by giving you the culinary facts behind it.
To get the skinny on this appropriately greasy, pungently cheesy, slightly spicy, and beefy sandwich, I caught up with my homie, Grigg Street Pizza co-owner and chef, Matthew Watson.
Ask any fine dining enthusiast in our state and there’s a strong chance The Essex, owned by chef Colt Taylor, get a glowing recommendation.
While writing this, it’s important to mention I’ve personally never been to The Essex. I simply know its reputation and I’ve heard the raves from my nerdiest food friends. I’ll get up to Old Saybrook soon, but before I check off The Essex, I wanted to meet Taylor at his other concept, Los Charros Cantina, where the menu marriage is a co-existence of authentic Mexican cuisine and L.A. style Mexican.
