Sneak Peek at Greenwich's Golden View Firenze

Jeff "jfood" Schlesinger

The culinary landscape in Greenwich expands with the recent opening of Golden View Firenze at 249 Railroad Avenue with its owner, chef and menu direct from Florence, Italy. For many years Tommaso Grasso, owner of Golden View Open Bar overlooking the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, visited friends in the US and they recently convinced him to bring his upscale cuisine and vibe to Greenwich. He persuaded Italian chef Francesco Casu to join him from Florence, and the two have created a traditional and authentic Tuscan menu.

Entering the restaurant, you immediately feel the European influence in the décor. The sleek black and white tables and chairs were imported from Italy and the walls are all adorned with paintings also imported from Italy. The entire space has an inviting European hip ambience and is spacious for the forty guests who will dine on traditional Tuscan cuisine. The entire rear of the dining area is dedicated to the stainless steel kitchen with a Chef’s Counter for four lucky guests.

The menu includes traditional Tuscan fare; a cuisine focused on simple presentations, fresh ingredients and a sense of balance to the dish’s construction. The opening menu includes choices reflective of the owner and chef’s Italian roots. There are ten choices of Salumi e Fora ranging from Prosciutto Di Parma to Lardo and a selection cheeses (including my favorite Taleggio) served with Italian honey and homemade jams. Insalates range from simple Mixed Greens to Buffalo Mozzarella with grilled zucchini, snap peas, sundried tomatoes ad mixed greens. Antipasti selections include cold and warm selections including soup Cheese flan, grilled vegetables and several fish preparations.

On my initial visit during the restaurant’s opening week I decided to bypass the appetizers and ordered a pasta and entrée. With almost a dozen pasta choices, I decided to sample the Spaghetti all’astice (Spaghetti with Lobster) and the Branzino di Fondale alla Siciliana (Sicilian style black sea bass with leeks, celery, tomato, capers and black olives).

As I waited I enjoyed a simple bruschetta of tomato, olive oil and basil sitting atop a slice of house-made bread. The kitchen allowed the flavors of the tomatoes to stay as the centerpiece of the dish with just a touch of oil and basil.

The Spaghetti was delicious. A large portion of spaghetti was complemented by a light lobster fumet and finished with chunks of lobster. The pasta was perfectly prepared to al dente and the lobster was succulent and delicious. The sauce included just a touch of spice that left a delightful after flavor on the palate.

The Black Bass sat atop a potpourri of cherry tomatoes, olives, capers and celery. Black Bass is one of my variety of fish and Golden View’s preparation was simple with the wonderful flavors of the bass showcasing and the freshness of the other ingredients that added varying flavors and textures.

As the chef adjusts the seasoning differences between the American and Italian palate this will become a go-to restaurant in Greenwich. Stay tuned as CTbites returns in the near future for a more in depth review.

249 Railroad Ave. - Greenwich, CT -(203) 817-0919

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