Bodega Taco Bar Opens in Darien

Amy Kundrat and Stephanie Webster November 11, 2012

The upscale, inspired Mexican street food and vibrant bar scene that Bodega has ushered into Fairfield, has migrated south, opening in Darien this past weekend. The trio behind the original Bodega—Michael Young, Luis Chavez and Mario Fontana—have continued to perfect a brash menu that embraces the Americas, skewing from South America to North, and settling centrally on Mexico. In a markedly larger setting, the new Darien outpost has successfully duplicated much of the same menu, from antojitos to mezcal, with a few noteworthy additions. Bodega will be open for dinner Monday through Saturdayat 5 pm and will expand its hours to include lunch beginning January 7 and Sunday brunch on January 13.

Guacamole and antojitos or “little cravings” kick-off the menu steeped in Mexican street food, that continues to borrow heavily from abroad, a trend that continues to platos, ensaladas, tortas and of course, tacos. New to Darien, a Lobster Mac Fundido, a manchego cheese sauce and bodega dry chili migas that arrives table-side audibly sizzling hot. Another new (not so) small plate are the richly layered Bodega Sweet Chili Duck Nachos, held together with cotija cheese, cranberry-jalapeno salsa, with Bodega’s signature large shards of crisp tortilla chips.

Continuing onto tacos, Bodega continues to embrace the geographical spectrum. From Baja, a panko crusted mahi mahi, to Korea, a crispy korean chicken, and back to Mexico with a carne asada, all of Bodega’s tacos are tucked between two corn flour tortilla shells. New and noteworthy of the bunch are two vegetarian tacos. The Skinny Dorado, a sriracha verde, lime slaw, guava and almonds as well as a Calexico—slices of fried avocado with refried beans and queso fresco.

Taking its bar scene seriously, Bodega devotes equal billing to its tequilas and cocktails, with deep offerings of various Blanco, Reposado and Anejos, as well as a few mezcals, topping out just over 50 different selections. The agave worship extends to a selection of cocktails or “Bebidas.” The newest cocktail addition is the “figure 8,” a combination of Patron anejo, rosemary, fig preserves, ginger and orange juice served in a stemless champagne flute. Familiar favorites from Fairfield remain such as the rosarita, the Natalie Portman and the alibi.