EOS - Contemporized Greek Cuisine in Romantic Setting

Jeff "jfood" Schlesinger February 14, 2016

Eos Restaurant opened in 2008 by Nikki and Jimmy Glekas and his mother Dina Glekas Loukrezis with the goal of serving contemporary Greek cuisine. Chef Minas Sotirakopoulos recently joined the EOS culinary family and Nikki Glekas invited CTbites to sample a few of the newest additions to the menu, which blends the family’s Greek heritage with modern-day flair.

The interior of the restaurant is relaxed and inviting. The single dining room features a banquette along the entire right wall with seating for twenty plus an addition thirteen four-guest tables, nicely spaced to allow for normal conversation. Above the banquette are photos from the family’s recent visit to Greece while the opposite wall is adorned with wavy modular art, creating a relaxed aquatic feel reminiscent of a seaside restaurant along the Mediterranean. The mood is soft and romantic from the indirect lighting in the tray ceiling and carefully spaced, yet unobtrusive spot lights.

The evening started with three selections from the Mezedes (small plate) section. My favorite was the Gigantes. The giant butter beans were baked and served in a rich tomato sauce, and topped with small chunks of feta cheese. The beans were perfectly prepared to maintain a touch of bite and delivered a wonderful earthiness that was complemented by the rich, spicy-sweet tomatoes. The feta added a mellowness to the robust tomato sauce. This simple 3-ingredient dish was bold and superb.

The Prassinos Pyrgos was an amazing salad. It included fresh baby spinach, feta cheese, dill, and scallions, layered between toasted sheets of phyllo and finished with sesame seeds and a honey balsamic vinaigrette. The presentation was beautiful. The baby spinach was complemented by the pungency of the scallions and dill, neither of which I normally expect in a salad…and they worked. The feta added a mild creaminess and the dressing elevated the dish with a delightful sweetness.

The newest addition to the small plate section is the Ospriatha. The dish consisted of grilled octopus sitting atop a mélange of lentils, white beans, chick peas, fresh vegetables (that included peppers and cucumbers) and finished with lemon vinaigrette. The dish balanced the tender octopus with a variety of textures in the vegetables, which also offered just a touch of spiciness. The octopus, itself, was a little over-charred, which lent a mildly unpleasant burnt taste to the dish.

For the main course, the Chef Sotirakopoulos prepared a table-sharing adventure with three entrees, including the Lavraki, the Paidakia, and the Pork Souvlaki.

The best dish of the evening was the Lavraki, which included a whole char-grilled and de-boned Branzino sitting atop a sheet of toasted phyllo, itself covered with a Kalamata olive spread, roasted tomatoes and onions. This dish was spectacular. The filet was moist and delicious, and when combined with the olive paste, tomatoes and onions created an overabundance of brilliant flavors. It was one of the best fish combinations I have eaten in quite some time. A small sip of the Muses Mouhtaro further enhanced the dish.

The other delicious entrée was the Paidakia, a char-grilled lamb rib chop. The chop was first marinated in olive oil and lemon juice allowing the meat to absorbed just a hint of citrus. The texture was soft, yet firm and the chop was perfectly charred to enhance the richness of the lamb. The chop was served with a variety of grilled vegetables including roasted red peppers, Portobello mushroom, eggplant and zucchini, which added great earthy and sweet contrasts to the meat. The chef also included a few of EOS’ long standing Lemon Potatoes, which were delightful. The Megas Oenos red blend was well paired with the lamb.

The third entrée, the Pork Souvlaki was the singular mis-step of the evening. The cubes of pork tenderloin were marinated in a lemon-oregano marinade and char-grilled. Unfortunately, they were over-cooked, dry and chewy and I was not a fan of the seasoning.

Our dessert consisted of a trio of Greek specialties. My favorite was the Baklava. The filling was very dense and included both walnuts and almonds, plus cinnamon. This mixture was nestled between sheets of phyllo, and drizzled with honey. It was one of the best Baklavas I have ever tasted. The second delightful dessert was the Millefeuille, a wonderful dark chocolate mousse, served with chocolate-covered phyllo. The smooth and chocolatey mousse was delicious and it was the favorite of others at the table. The dessert trio also included a house-made yogurt, served with orange segments, strawberries, blueberries, all sitting in a small pool of honey. The yogurt was delightful, dense and was a great canvas for the sweet berries. Save room for all of these desserts. We enjoyed a split of Blink sparkling wine with the desserts.

Overall I really enjoyed my visit to EOS. The hospitality of the Glekas family is second to none, and the family’s hands-on dedication to the flavors of Greece are evident in each dish. Add a wonderful atmosphere in a lovely room and EOS is a restaurant I will return to often.

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