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CTbites Staff Picks for Top Eats of 2019

Stephanie Webster December 27, 2019

2019...Ah, what a year. As we welcome in the roaring 20’s, full of promise, and hopefully, less national division and drama, it is important to celebrate the restaurants, chefs, dishes, and dining experiences that helped shape the 2019 CT dining scene (and kept us sane). 2019 heralded some great openings from both chefs we know and love, as well as some newcomers. Here's our list of Top Eats for 2019 from the CTbites staff. Every team member and contributor has chosen their own unique way to throw down their favorites. This is NOT a “Best Of” list as writer, Andrew Dominick states. These are the meals and culinary experiences we remember most fondly from 2019. Enjoy, and start making your reservations for 2020.

Stephanie Webster

Tavern On State, New Haven. It’s no wonder Chef Mingrone won the CRAZIES award for “Best New Restaurant” in CT. She knows her way around innovatively re- imagined comfort food. Her Tots & Caviar and Griddled Cornish Scarpiello game Hen are the things dreams are made of.

Taco Daddy, Stamford. Seasoned restaurateur, John Nealon (Fortina) and his wife, Morgan have crazy marketing game, and they know how to both create both a super fun menu…and a super fun dining scene. This Taco joint is anything but classic Mexican. In fact you’ll find such delectable items as GUCCI Tacos with Wagyu, Foie, & truffle fries (for special occasions), Fruity Pebbles Quesadillas, and Cheeseburger Tacos. Guest chef, R&D nights, and raucous happy hours make this a must check out.

OKO, Westport. Words can not describe the Spicy Wagyu Beef with truffled quail egg, miso…all on a warm block of crispy rice.

The Tasty Yolk, Bridgeport. I thought they had me with their divine breakfast sandwiches, but the opening of their Black Rock retail spot, and the addition of a full lunch menu including The Crispy Mother Clucker (Fried Chicken) really took the sandwich love to a whole new level.

Flour Water Salt, Darien. Serious bread game, alongside wonderful sourdough based pastries. Rob VanKeuren is a master scientist…we only wish he would expand the biz so he didn’t sell out on busy mornings. The Sourdough bread is…I’ll go out on a limb here, probably the best in CT. The Coffee Cake deserves an article all to itself…or possibly a haiku.

Azteca, Bridgeport. Thank you to Chef Bill Taibe who gave us the nod on this out of the way Mexico City inspired menu. We fell in love the moment we arrived. Family run, and just plain delicious, these guys are doing Mexican food right.

Andrew Dominick, Writer

Every year when we submit these picks, I tend to include a mix of places I’ve covered and others that I went to minus the work. FYI: these are not “Best Of” selections. Each is something new in one way or another, whether it was my first time at a popular restaurant, a brand-new spot, or a pop-up. What they all have in common is even at year’s end, I can’t stop thinking about each experience.

Azteca, Bridgeport. This hidden Bridgeport gem may not be hidden much longer after becoming a recent media darling. I won’t pick out a singular dish here because you can’t go wrong at this family-owned, authentic Mexican restaurant that could very well be Connecticut’s best representation of Mexico City cuisine.

La Taqueria, Greenwich. At the top of Greenwich Avenue is this fast casual taqueria that no one’s talking about. You should be. Everything is homemade and it won’t break the bank. One bite any of Dennis Lake’s blue corn tacos will make you a fan.

Cafe Silvium, Stamford. Still a tough dinnertime table to snag almost 20 years later and it’s no wonder; old school, big portions, homemade pasta and mozzarella, overflowing wine pours, and it’s in the spirit of but way better than your grandfather’s favorite red sauce joint.

Jesup Hall + Fortina Pop-Ups, Westport. Bill Taibe teamed up with Christian Petroni for an unforgettable handful of patio pop-ups centered around fresh vegetable dishes and Fortina’s new and improved thin and crispy pizza recipe. One of those was a spicy red clam pie that was easily the singular best pizza I had all year.

Kamayan Dinner, Everywhere. The food event highlight of my year was a Filipino feast prepared on an open flame by Chris Gonzalez and Dan Sabia (with Ria Rueda doing the planning) at SoNo 1420. If you’re unfamiliar, here’s that STORY, where guests enjoyed a hands-on (seriously, no utensils) meal of chicken, sausage, fish, pork, fruit, rice, and spring rolls. I’ve become friends with Chris over the past year and have gotten an education on his culture, so I think it’s fine for me to say… “Chris, we NEED more of these to happen!”

Hoodoo Brown’s BBQ 101 Class, Ridgefield. I spent a Sunday morning with Cody, Chris, and the boys at Hoodoo to learn about what they do and got some hands-on experience trimming fat, rubbing meat (insert childish giggle), managing fire, stuffing my face, and then some. It’s a great way to up your BBQ game.

Swyft, Kent. Joel Viehland’s wood-fired Neapolitan pizza won me over this year after a visit to Kent Falls Brewing Company. It’s light, slightly charred crust with the right amount of chew took my top spot in the state as the best Neapolitan. But it’s more than just pizza. Don’t skip the juicy roast chicken or the burger, both of which are fired in the wood oven. And of course, they have good cocktails. And the historic building and grounds are charming. And there’s a second side, Ore Hill, a tasting menu concept that food fanatics are eagerly anticipating.

Area Two, Stratford. I’m not sure there’s a more stunning brewery in Connecticut than Two Roads’ brand-new facility where they’re brewing puckering sours, barrel-aged sippers, and other experimental beers. If you’re into drinking stuff that’s not a haze bro IPA, this is the place for you.

Tavern on State , New Haven. Chef Emily Mingrone was my nomination for Connecticut Magazine’s “Best Up and Coming Chef” and for “Best New Restaurant.” You’ll understand why when you try her food at Tavern on State in New Haven’s East Rock section. Mingrone’s flavors are creative, fearless, and often times a better version of a classic, best exemplified in a spatchcock Cornish game hen in a buttery, spicy scarpiello sauce. There are burgers (one with funky bleu cheese and crispy bacon), a fried chicken sandwich, a stellar cocktail program, and plenty of other indulgences, too. My advice? Try a bunch, share with friends, but just get here already.

Eleven Madison Park, New York City. It’s far from the best meal I’ve ever had but it’s worth the experience if you’re celebrating a special occasion. Sure, there are plenty of world class dishes like the honey-lavender duck and the savory clam, leek, and potato souffle with caviar. What won me over the most was their hospitality; unpretentious and fun interactions with the staff. Pro tip: Do the bar tasting. You’ll get most of Eleven Madison’s signature dishes for a couple hundred bucks less than the full tasting.

Kristin L. Wolfe, Writer

The year was filled with a few bites that were not just delicious but left me dreaming about them, talking about them on numerous occasions, and in some cases, trying (and failing) to replicate them at home. They were experiences where more than a few things aligned; from the flavor combinations, the level of technique, the aura of the chef, or the ambiance, something happened beyond the bite.

BLT, West Hartford. Chef Jim Casey at BLT in New Hartford is wild. His imagination is on level 10 and his abilities exceed his years. I’m telling you, you don’t know what you are going to get, but keep an eye on him. You walk into what feels like your favorite corner bar with rustic details, but what is going on in the kitchen is on par with the magic of Willy Wonka. After a few visits and a ton of delicious food, my head still spins over two things: Lardo Toast on thin focaccia, pickled vegetables, with shaved parmesan. That’s it, but the kick in your mouth is everything. The other, which is like junk food meets high fashion is his Bic Mac Steak Tartare. What a way to take a blast from eating past and combine the intoxicating flavors (and all that’s bad for you), including the “special sauce,” with the bouginess that is anything tartared. It was a damned delicious surprise.

Gaudi Tapas & Wine, Danbury. Okay, not only did I barge into this new little spot excited to promote WOMEN DOING AMAZING THINGS but I kept going back because I fell under their spell. And, that was even before the flamenco show, which always captivates me. First of all, even before anything kisses your palette, the Ruiz twins from Spain, warm your heart with a welcome only your favorite aunt can give. So you already feel special before sitting down. Then round after round of traditional cuisine with creative twists and gorgeous presentation will have you sold. From various Sangrias and beers (the San Miguel with Lemon Nitrogen foam!) to the croquetas or cocos and toasts menu, there was big flavor in small bites. Choosing is difficult but for tapas the foie gras toast with caramelized apple, bacalao croquetas, and quail egg with truffle and black caviar top my list; and for more substantial yums the traditional paella and filet mignon with Roquefort sauce positively curled my toes.

Present Company, Tariffville. There’s a reason the accolades are piling up at Present Company. Chef Jeff Lizotte and his team really have that IT factor. The place is just friggin special and the food is out of this world. It’s a place where you can just tell RESPECT for good quality ingredients is paramount. Sitting at the bar, even on a date, is a must. If you never have before, this is the place to do it. Each plate is treated like a rare treat and knowing one of them is yours turns on your “do a jig” button every time. Watching the team from the bar is like watching a classically trained orchestra where precision, rhythm, and creativity intermingle to anoint the audience with a unique moment. And, even though there is definitely something fun about being at restaurants where you hear yelling and clinging and clanging, you will be positively moved by the calm by the bar at PC. Oh, and the food. I’m not sure I’ve had more flavorful vegetables, I mean beet carpaccio that sings in your mouth or a sun dried tomato crema? A melt in your mouth riff on beef pho? It’s there.

Bar August, New Haven. Okay, This spot is just sexy. You feel sexy going in, you feel sexy on your way out. And, New Haven is just fun and foodie, but add talented grown ups---husband and wife, Andrew and Michelle--who have a worldly flair and just damned good taste, and you just want to spend time here. The whole time I was there I felt I was in a hybrid of Paris and Greenwich Village with a dash that is uniquely New Haven. The wine menu is the most extensive around and you’ll just want to listen to Andrew’s knowledge of them and the whole menu for that matter, for hours. The Charcuterie boards are even sexy with the freshest meats and cheese but a display that just makes you want to unbutton a little (or is that just me?) Anyway, beyond those boards, two plates from the Bistro menu stand out that make my mouth water: The Neptune Panino with sardines and lemon gremolata (I’m puckering just thinking about it); and the Tinned Fish with romesco and whipped garlic butter. I need a cigarette (but I don’t smoke!)

Sherkaan & Kawit’s Filipindian Feas, New Haven. Alright let’s be honest, many of us ‘round these parts have had more experience with Euro-centric cuisines, but I am so thankful our dear state is stretching its wings to reflect the tremendous depth of world cuisines. One of the most exciting events I’ve experienced this year was the FilipIndian Feast at Sherkaan. Not only did you feel like you were walking into a high energy street fest full of fun but the music, the aromas, and flavors were an instant trip around the world. I’m so excited for Sherkaan, who just opened this year, and bringing Indian Street food to the forefront, and Kawit!, who is forging ahead catering under the “Filipino Food Movement” banner and hosting sold out popups. Every bite that night danced in my mouth but the Sweet Potato Dosa was not only full of flavor but came out like an airplane, large and full of drama; the Keema Tots with lamb and mint raita seemed wrong they were so delicious, I felt I needed to hoard them; and the lumpia, well I was with an expert from the Philippines that night who scrunched down low and said, “grandmas all over the Philippines would be proud.”

Conspiracy, Middletown. First of all, a name like Conspiracy automatically raises eyebrows, Then, knowing that the spot was an old movie theater adds an element of charm and curiosity, not to mention gives you an understanding of why the kitchen is so un-kitchen like. And yet, what Chef Chris Sassi and crew are able to produce from that tiny enclave deserves high marks (okay, it’s spitting distance from Wesleyan, so I had to throw in some academic something or other). Now, the marquee, so to speak, highlights cocktails. It is certainly not a place you go to sit at a fine dining table and nosh a four course meal. No, you climb the stairs, look around at the funky decor like netting, a ship’s wheel, a bicycle, and a tree-like chandelier. Then squish yourself low on one of the comfy couches, guzzle some amazing, wild concoctions of cocktails with a few really memorable bites, then hope you make your way back down the stairs out into Middletown Main Street without falling on your ass. But with drinks like Missionary’s Downfall, Get Off My Lawn, Mauna Loa (my favorite) and One Night in Bangkok you are sold on the fun of it. But wait, accessorize that great drink with the Drunken Carrots, Black Garlic Wasabi popcorn, or my absolute favorite I had to order two, the PB&J. That’s right, an adult PB&J made with a coconut pistachio butter, with concord grape compote.

Max Burger, West Hartford. Like with pizza, people have their opinions about burgers, and are loud about them, so I know I am entering sacred territory. I could also write a whole piece on burgers in CT because we’ve lucked out, folks, with a heck of a lot of yummy burger joints. But when asked my most memorable, I decided to go with my first burger of 2019, at Max Burger in West Hartford, who is celebrating ten years this year. When I have a burger, I forget about being a lady (who am I kidding, I forget everyday). The juicier, the messier the better. So, when I find one where there are not enough napkins in time to dab the running down my arm deliciousness, I am in love. I found love with the Steak House burger made from Sanchoku Farms wagyu beef, with cheddar fondue, candied bacon, and black pepper aioli. I feel like I need to repeat that. Anyway, I couldn’t eat for days after, it was that filling, but danced in my dreams long after.

Taproot, Bethel. I decided to celebrate my birthday at this tremendous haven of yumminess. Always delicious, Chef Jeff Taibe’s Taproot is another place where I feel angels are singing in terms of respect paid to every ingredient, and where even the simplest vegetable becomes a superstar. And, I love places you can skip to my lou out the door and still feel sooooo satisfied instead of feeling like you ate your weight in plates. It’s one of those places where, from app to entree, every dish feels special, and that the app wasn’t an afterthought or foreplay for the “main” event. As a quick bite menu, I could easily down several of the Pimento Cheese Toasts, with jam and ham, or the Foie Gras Mouse with Cherry Jam. The Giardinaiera pickled veggies just zing and zang in your mouth, and the burrata with apple and ham was the perfect combo of mellow and electric.

Strega, Branford. I have already told a few people that if I had to choose my last meal right this minute it would be here. Strega. Not only does the nonna within me brim to rim with happiness by this locale, but the food, Chef Marco Giugliano, owner and pizzaiolo Danilo Mangilo, the ambience, everything just screams Benvenuto Bambina! The drinks flow, and the warmth and passion for all things Italian and all things good food hang in the air. It bustles by the bar where the drinks menu is extensive and a shot of golden Strega liquor will makes its way to you at some point. The oven is strategically placed so you have to just stand and stare at the magic, the light as a feather Neapolitan style pizzas, if but a minute. But there a couple of things that simply but powerfully BLEW my mind. The tomatoes for one. The first time there I remember calling Danilo over in disbelief. Where on earth are these rubies from? Apparently flown over by magic carpet from Piennolo del Vesuvio, otherwise heaven. They were the sweetest ‘matoes I’d ever had. Tempura zucchini flowers, then Melanzana Ripiena, the eggplant with sausage and basil powder was shockingly light and delicious, but the most surprising of all was the calamaro in thin strips served with Scapace mousse, zucchini, caviar and rice paprika chips. It was impossible to believe that what looked like paper thin strips of fettuccine, were actually strands of calamari. The salty punch of caviar as an accessory made my head spin.

Chef Chris Scott/Birdman, Bridgeport. I could just write Chef Chris Scott and leave it at that because I swear everything he creates or touches oozes with flavor and love and history, however, I might have done a mini backflip when I tried his deviled eggs. On one occasion the gent in the couple next to me had said he’d never even had a deviled egg before. By the end of his first DE experience, he agreed he might not ever try another if they could be this delicious. From the presentation in the egg carton, Scott’s Crispy Fried Deviled Egg with Collard Green Cracklin is The Backyard Party. From flavor and texture to tang, smooth, spice and crunch, it is beyond what you ever thought an egg could do.

April Guilbault, Writer

Taproot, Bethel. A truly wonderful dining experience. Brilliant flavor combinations, tempting cocktails, farm-to-table fun, attentive service. I cannot wait to head back again soon and see what surprises await.

Gruel Britannia, Fairfield. After watching way too many episodes of The Great British Baking Show, the natural place to head was here for a slice of Victoria Spongecake (pronounced “spooooonge” like Paul Hollywood) and a pot of tea. Pinkies up and lovin’ it. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner on select days. Sign up to get their current dinner menus.

River and Rail Cafe, New Milford. Their Parmesan Scones are so delicious I got them two days in a row. The flavor snagged me something fierce and I know this because I never reach for savory scones. The cafe itself is lovely and completely adorable. I sort of want that one wallpapered wall in my own house (you’ll know what I’m talking about when you visit).

Engine Room, Mystic. Mill around Mystic and pop into the Engine Room, named so for the fact that it is the building for the former Lathrop Marine Engine company. Chow down on pubby, comforting foods, craft beers, and good cocktails (bourbon flows wildly here). They have an expansive, attractive bar where you can perch for a while or big banquette tables in which to linger, laugh, and eat.

Griswold Inn, Essex. The epitome of historic New England charm situated on one of the prettiest streets in Connecticut. The place oozes Connecticut and the mood is convivial and charming. Ask about the history of the bar-it’s good one, right down to the ceiling. A must go-not sure how it took me so long.

Hen & Heifer, Guilford. Again with the gorgeous desserts! They have perfected the infamous mirror glaze and serve their hot chocolate in specially handmade hot chocolate bowls with a quenelle of whipped cream. Follow them on instagram for daily dessert swoon.

Brick and Wood, Fairfield. Such delicious pumpkin ravioli with sage cream sauce! I really wanted to lick the plate. Brick oven fired pizzas, lots of house-made cheeses and a casual atmosphere great for families or anyone wanting appetizing Italian.

Shearwater Coffee, Fairfield. Certified Organic roasted coffee, well done coffee drinks, tasty baked goods (many gluten-free), all in a light-yet-cozy place to plunk down with a computer and write (this).

Sift, Mystic. Newly expanded and more gorgeous than ever. Their surroundings match their insanely beautiful and delicious breads and baked creations (hell, it’s ART). It’s hard to choose but not so hard that you would ever pass up anything from here. Ever.

Tavern on Main, Westport. Fireplaces and their Quinoa Salad. Happy girl

The Marketplace at Guilford Food Center, Guilford. A great place to catch a good deli-style lunch (or breakfast) when you are on your way to Clinton Crossing or any points along hellish I-95. The Marketplace sits on one of the most picturesque town greens in Connecticut. They offer fresh made soups, salads, coffee, you can pick up meats from their butcher, light grocery items and even grab one of many flavors of milkshakes or gourmet hot chocolates.

Emma Doody, News Editor

Present Company, Tariffville. French trainer master chef / co-owner Jeffrey Lizotte continues to serve up some of the most beautiful and incredibly delicious food in CT. Chef Lizotte’s French training can be felt in every dish on this totally inventive American menu. This is my go-to spot for a very special meal.

El Pollo Guapo, Multiple locations. Best Rotisserie Chicken in Ct. Drop the mic.

El Segundo, South Norwalk. I love these guys, and Chef Carlos’s Global street food menu continues to evolve and delight.

Tasty Yolk, Bridgeport. I’ve been a die hard fan since the very beginning when they launched their first truck. The breakfast sandwiches are the best in CT and the new permanent location’s lunch additions are all outstanding.

Jessica Ryan, Writer

Seafood
Prime (Stamford); The Whelk (Westport)

Sushi: Prime (Stamford); Yamafuji (Westport - take out)

Pizza: Brick & Wood (Fairfield); Dough Girls (truck); Bar (New Haven)For those who prefer more of a NY style:; Greenfield Hill Deli/Testo's (Fairfield) ; Toscano's (Southport)

French: Le Penguin (Westport and Greenwich), Meli Melo (Greenwich), Versailles (Greenwich)

Italian: Paci (Southport at the train station), Liana's Trattoria (Fairfield)

Mexican/Latin: Ola Latin Kitchen (Bridgeport), Bartaco (various locations), Boxcar Cantina (Greenwich)

Breakfast sandwich: The Tasty Yolk (various locations)

European: Bruxelles Brasserie (Sono)

Asian: Mama Chow (Southport)

British: Gruel Britannia (Fairfield)

American: Match (South Norwalk), Tavern on State (New Haven)Heirloom (New Haven), Schoolhouse at Cannondale (Wilton), Southend (New Canaan)

Casual Neighborhood Eateries: Driftwood Diner (Southport), Chef's Table (Fairfield, Westport), Harborview Market (Bridgeport)

Healthy/vegan/veg: Organica (Southport, New Canaan)

Not restaurants but worth the mention ... Bakeries : SoNo Baking Co. (various locations), Billy's Bakery (Fairfield), Wave Hill Bread (Norwalk), Flour Water Salt Bread (Darien)

Marysol Castro, Podcast Host

Terrain, Westport. Crispy chickpeas. The big girl version of perfectly crispy, salty potato chips only better. You cannot simply eat just one.

Fortina, Stamford. That. Damn. Polenta. Table.

Ren Dumpling and Noodle Shop, Wilton. Should you ever need to wipe yourself clean of the bedlam that is the DMV, make a hard right out of the parking lot down Rt 7 and belly up to this joint. Yes it's in a strip mall down but the steamed pork soup dumplings are the truth. I implore you to find a better way to spend $8.55.

Peaches Southern Juke Joint, Norwalk. The scald on the fried chicken is spot on. The cornbread with honey butter is optional but I'll give major side eye if you don't order that too.