Chef April Bloomfield is Cooking at the Mayflower Inn

Andrew Dominick
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A posh five-star inn located in “the country” of Connecticut may be the last place you’d expect to stumble upon a former two-time Michelin star chef doing her thing in the kitchen.

Expect it. And expect to run into April Bloomfield.

Yeah, THAT April Bloomfield. The April Bloomfield who won a James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: New York City in 2014. The April Bloomfield who owns the British gastropub The Breslin. And the same April Bloomfield of the now shuttered, but acclaimed West Village haunt, The Spotted Pig.

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And since mid-September she’s been spending her time away from the concrete jungle as the chef-in-residence at the Mayflower Inn & Spa where she’s firing up the refined pub fare that she is so lauded for and marrying that style with the bounty from local farms.

If you visit—and you absolutely should—there are a few dining experiences to be aware of.

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There’s a seasonal, constantly changing four-course dinner tasting in the brightly lit, plant enshrined Garden Room. The $150 tasting’s polar opposite has been the occasionally offered bonfire experience where Bloomfield comes out to chat over cocktails, savory snacks, and gooey s’mores.

Then there’s the meal I elected to have, a lunch in The Tap Room. If the weather obeys, it’s a great idea to dine out on the back deck that overlooks the Shakespeare Garden, equal parts beautiful and haunting on an overcast autumn day.

Negronis + Nibbles is the proper way to begin a meal

Negronis + Nibbles is the proper way to begin a meal

But why The Tap Room? Why not the tasting?

I had reference point. I had been to The Spotted Pig. I went before it closed. I wanted to be able to compare the “then” to what Bloomfield is doing presently.

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Bloomfield’s menu at The Tap Room is succinct but I’m confident you’ll find plenty to indulge in. It begins with odes to The Spotted Pig’s past offerings with shareable nibbles like pâté with a seasonal chutney, vinegary pickled vegetables, and olives marinated in red wine vinegar, rosemary, and garlic. Creamy deviled eggs, that I could’ve eaten a dozen of, and a giant, salty, house made pork rind were the perfect companion to a new age version of a Negroni layered with sweet prosecco on top. I haven’t never had it served that way, but I assure you, that familiar bitterness was present as you sip your way to the bottom.

An giant, habit-forming pork scratchling seasoned with chili, salt, and lime zest

An giant, habit-forming pork scratchling seasoned with chili, salt, and lime zest

If you move on in proper order, after “nibbles” comes a first course. Get a salad if you want or a bowl of smoked haddock chowder if you wish. I had it in my mind after I stalked chef’s online menu for weeks ahead of my visit that I’d get a raw fish appetizer. The freshness on this day was kampachi, aka longfin yellowtail, gently mixed with mung beans, crunchy sprouted grains, avocado, basil mayo and fermented chilis that added a spicy, funky pop.

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Post shared plates, I moved onto a Manhattan. Their blend of bourbon, rye, and both sweet and dry vermouth went down so easy that I could’ve downed it instantly. It’s a compliment. It was balanced, smooth, and somehow, I managed to save a little bit to match up with Bloomfield’s Tap Room Burger.

If cocktails don’t match your mood, there’s plenty in terms of wine, plus beer on draft.

If cocktails don’t match your mood, there’s plenty in terms of wine, plus beer on draft.

Before the burger arrived, I reminisced back to The Spotted Pig’s famed char-grilled version with pungent Roquefort. I assumed it would resemble that one. It didn’t.

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Aside from a pretty identical char, this is its own beautiful beast. The soft, loose ground beef patty comes enveloped in raclette cheese sauce with more that falls onto the plate for wipe down purposes. The burger’s kicker is a giant deep-fried onion ring on top giving it a major crunch effect. I was grateful for two more rings on the side, however, I wish they were available as an orderable side. You’ll undoubtedly want more.  

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If not for another main, I might’ve crushed another burger. The juicy roasted chicken with confit-like skin was outstanding. It’s served with butter crisped sage and a trio of pumpkin , toasted pepitas, a velvety purée, and something I had never seen before, a couple of fried pumpkin wedges made this dish worthy of the descriptor “autumn on a plate.”

I’d recommend both, but if not, Bloomfield’s menu rounds out with cauliflower tikka masala, a beer battered flounder sandwich, and a grilled aged ribeye with garlic butter and mushrooms.

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Double up on dessert with a fudgy pot du creme

Double up on dessert with a fudgy pot du creme

After all the savory, stay for a British classic dessert, a warm, inviting, sticky toffee pudding. Swirl it in the buttery sweet toffee sauce, hell, drink it if you want to, it’s that great. Make that your last bite. Don’t wash it down with coffee or booze. Let it linger.

What won’t linger, though, is Bloomfield’s residency at the Mayflower. As I sit here and scribble this down, she’s got about a month or so left. After her departure, executive sous chef David Nathans will stay on to execute Bloomfield’s creations.

What I’m trying to tell you here is that you’ve got some time…but hurry up!

Update: Bloomfield decided to stay on as head chef at the Mayflower Inn!

118 Woodbury Road; Washington
860.868.9466;
https://aubergeresorts.com/mayflower/