Chef Bill Taibe Opens Don Memo: Authentic Mexican in Westport

Bill Taibe is a chef who is constantly creating. This is why, in the midst of a pandemic, as many restaurants closed their doors, Taibe and his executive chef, Anthony Kostelis, were in the kitchen recipe testing and preparing to launch a new Mexican concept in Downtown Westport. The name is Don Memo, and it resides in the space formerly known as Jesup Hall. Why the pivot? Taibe has long had a passion for Mexican cuisine, and has traveled extensively throughout Mexico over the past few years. He says, “Mexican food is intricate, vibrant, humble, and delicious. It’s the definition of local cuisine.” And, in typical Taibe form, he and Kostelis have crafted beautiful creative dishes on the bedrock of authentic Mexican fare.

The menu…well, they had me at the handmade corn tortillas which form the foundation for Taibe’s vividly authentic menu. These are hand pressed and served with tostadas, quesadillas, and tacos, alongside ceviches, tamales, and of course, a selection of uber-fresh seasonal salads and vegetables…all locally sourced. The food is deeply flavorful, light, and…like he said….just plain delicious.

Let’s start with those aforementioned house made tortillas. Taibe and Kostelis landed on a mix of blue and yellow corn masa for their tortillas, which, as a side note, makes Don Memo’s menu very approachable for those following a gluten-free diet. When asked to point out a few of his favorites on the new menu, Taibe says,” I really like the tostada and quesadilla section,” so let’s begin our culinary journey here.

Crispy tostadas (a.k.a. fried corn tortillas) come nestled under thinly sliced tuna with ramps and chipotle, lobster with salsa, chicken tinga, and black bean or mussels escabeche. You’ll even find the decadently divine, foie gras tostada with morita and chive blossom honey. While you may not encounter foie on a traditional Mexican menu, it is the salsas and underlying flavor profiles for each of these dishes that speak to the roots of Mexican cooking. Throughout Don Memo’s menu, guests will find that every dish has clean vibrant notes of citrus, chili, and spices, and each clearly displays the passion this chef team has for this culture and cuisine.

The quesadillas are a far cry from the standard kids menu favorite, each infused with tradition and sophistication. The simplest will be the dos quesos (Yes, your 6 year old will like this one), but flavors get more complex as we move on to fillings such as chorizo verde, or the mushroom and chili oil, each served with a steak knife to cut through the toothsome warm tortillas.

The ceviche menu features my personal favorite, shrimp y octopus campechana in a deeply satisfying cool red clamato sauce, or the scallops in juiced melon, carrot, habanero and lime, with just the right amount of heat.

Of course, there is guacamole, but the onions and tomatoes have been replaced by fresh mint and plenty of cilantro, and do consider the spicy crispy grasshopper add-on for $6. Close your eyes and just do it. They add a wonderful mouthfeel. Guests will also find beautiful hand made tamales, a true labor of love in any kitchen. Whether you select the pollo verde or jalapeño y cotija, every bite of will transport you to the streets of Mexico City.

Other standouts include a hearty Mexican sandwich classic, the milanesa de pollo, a heaping breaded chicken sandwich loaded with cabbage and cotija, seemingly a nod to Jesup’s popular fried chicken sandwich. We also enjoyed our “breakfast for dinner”, the chilaquiles rojas, a heaping bowl of fried tortilla chips simmered in rich red sauce until slightly softened, and then topped with cotija and egg yolk. Last, but surely not least, was the slow cooked tender lamb barbacoa tacos, commonly found in the Oaxacan region of Mexico, and served DIY with all the standard fixins’ and, thank god, more of those corn tortillas. This was a standout.

In addition to the food, we would be remiss if we didn’t touch upon the freshly made agua fresca menu. For those unfamiliar, these beverages are quite literally a mix of “cold water” with fruit blended or squeezed into it, allowing the true essence of the fruit to shine. We loved the watermelon and avocado agua fresca, cool and refreshing on a hot summer night, and each presenting it’s core ingredient with bright intensity.

Let’s not forget the well appointed cocktail menu with a strong focus on tequila and mezcal. The margarita I sampled (and I’ve sampled A LOT of Margaritas) might take the gold medal for top standing in CT, and extensive “Indice” section of the menu, featuring six salsas that will rock your world. We recommend you try them all.

In keeping with Taibe’s and Kostelis’ long standing passion for seasonal cooking, and the premium they place on utilizing local farms, “We are super excited to get working with our own local produce and figuring out how we can implement it into our Mexican cuisine,” Taibe says. “ I’m equally excited to be doing this with Anthony. It’s been a while since we’ve been able to cook shoulder to shoulder.”

Finally, we asked Taibe where the name, Don Memo, originated. “Memo Garcia has worked with me for more than 15 years. His father (who had passed in ‘98) had a cantina in Puebla - where his family lives called Cantina Don Memo.” Additionally, his son Brian and brothers Erik and Aaron have worked with team Taibe for years.

And there you have it.  

Don Memo
90 Post Road E; Westport
(203) 557-6198; https://www.donmemowestport.com/