Elm Restaurant in New Canaan: Exploring Chef Luke Venner's Excellent Seasonal American Menu

Before Luke Venner debuted as Elm’s executive chef and partner, the New Canaan restaurant already had a following amongst townies, and there’s more than a good chance you heard Elm get name dropped as one of Fairfield County’s overall best. Five years later, it’s safe to say that Venner isn’t only hitting his stride, but he’s also having fun developing Elm’s dishes from what they once were. Once thought of as being, dare I say, “fancy,” Elm, under Venner, is approachable. 

The “seasonal New American” theme still exists, and it’s still a tough table to snag on a peak dine out day. The differences at Elm are now presented in the form of comfort. Sure, there are menu holdovers like tuna (or steak) tartare but if you’ve taken a half decade break from eating here, you won’t recognize it for what it once was. 

What you should do is get reacquainted with Elm. 

After sipping on whatever boozy treat you decided to order, jump right into a ramekin of guacamole. What sounds simple is not. An acidic, spicy, creamy guac is accompanied by a bunch of fresh fried, puffy blue corn tostadas that, according to Venner, are stone ground in-house. It’s a beautiful, addictive way to kickstart your appetite. 

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Another treat that’s currently unlisted, but worth mentioning anyway, is a heaping rendition of fritto misto. Venner’s version is a shareable bowl of battered-and-fried calamari, salmon, Meyer lemon, and fennel. Should it make its way back, even as a special, pair with a beer and enjoy. 

If you’re sticking to a see food, I mean, seafood diet, and you’re a lobster person, order a salad. Yeah, really, a salad. Chunks of warm, buttery claw and tail meat married with salty bacon, avocado, egg, ripe cherry tomatoes, Manchego cheese, bibb lettuce, and buttermilk dressing equal an outstanding Cobb salad. Usually I’d forgo most salads, and I’d be pissed at the thought of a $29 one. Not this time. 

Before I tell you about what’s “smoking” at Elm, it would actually be crazy if I didn’t mention their upscale version of a fast food burger. It’s something I’ve crushed several times as a cheat day treat after a weightlifting session. Right at the start of dinner service I’d grab a seat at the bar, order a pint, and crush a burger and fries. 

“The burgers are an homage to two different burgers I’ve come across in my life that I really like,” Venner says. “In-N-Out’s Double-Double Animal Style and the veggie burger from Hillstone.”

Venner’s haute Double-Double is a stacked masterpiece of what’s typical on In-N-Out’s famed burger; shredded lettuce, tomatoes, onions, cheese, a homemade burger sauce, and the thing that makes more decadent…two dry-aged beef patties. In-N-Out’s definitely not doing that. It’s sloppy, satisfying, and with a good amount of salty, crispy fresh cut fries, it’s all you’d need for happiness and a full belly. 

If burgers aren’t your jam (but they totally should be here), there’s plenty of carby pasta dishes to dive into. Many are rotating, but one you can bank on being present is the red sauce lumache with spicy ‘nduja, chili flakes, honey, toasted breadcrumbs, and micro basil.  

Pasta, though, is something Venner says will always be a mainstay. “We’ll always have pasta because it’s near and dear to my heart,” he says. “Cacio e pepe is one of the greatest things in the world if done right.” 

No argument there. But another great thing? BBQ. Yeah, you heard that right. Elm has a smoker, and they’re slow-cooking ribs, lightly smoking chicken, and overnight smoking brisket (a Friday and Saturday special).

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“We bought a smoker because we dabbled in wanting to open a smokehouse in New Canaan but couldn’t find the space for it,” Venner explains. “I like BBQ and you have to make a bit of a drive to find good BBQ around here. We wanted to introduce it because there’s a void. The brisket smokes about 14-15 hours, 3 ½ for the ribs, and the chicken is less BBQ and is a more comfort type dish, only 30 minutes (on the smoker), then we crisp up the skin on the grill.” 

Truth be told, this preview comes to our audience a bit late due to COVID-19. 

Prior to, and during the reopening of patio dining, Elm’s pandemic pivots include a grab and go breakfast service, seven days per week from 9 – 11 a.m., and Branchbox, fully prepared meals for two delivered straight to your door. Both are still being offered. 

Currently, Elm has started to welcome customers indoors at reduced capacity during Phase 2’s loosening of restrictions, allowing Venner and his team to get back to doing what they love to do, feeding the public. 

Whether the smokehouse idea ever becomes a reality, who knows. But we’ll certainly hope it does! 

Elm 
73 Elm Street; New Canaan
(203) 920-4994; https://www.elmrestaurant.com/