Oyster Club In Mystic Turns Ten And Wins "Best of Connecticut"
Photos: Catherine Dzilenski, Idlewild Photo Co
Am I dreaming? Is it really 2021? We got to flip the calendar?
To see a beloved restaurant hit a real landmark, especially amidst challenging times, you better believe we are going to hoot and holler and make some noise. So, that’s why we’ll spend 2021 celebrating alongside Oyster Club as they move into their next decade.
On the heels of being included in Connecticut Magazine’s “Best of” list, and as my top choice for Best Bites of 2020 here at ctbites, in addition to countless national accolades, there’s a reason for the celebration. Not only is Oyster Club in the picturesque town of Mystic, or in a building whose bold colors give nod to the elements, but the service, and what’s delivered on each plate is experiential, it is sensual; it is just extraordinary.
Admittedly, I had been to The Oyster Club before while trotting around Mystic like a tourist--which never gets old-- but went solely for actual oysters and booze. But, more recently I wanted to see how they’ve grown, and experience first hand the innovation and creativity coming out of the symphony that is their kitchen.
I went for one of their “Dinner Party” specials where you enjoy a four-course tasting menu and seasonal cocktail. But before I dove into that night’s Peruvian inspired menu, I had a round of oysters, of course. It seems sacrilege not to do so at The Oyster Club. Although my oyster-ology and chops are getting better, I am still a novice. I asked the staff to select for me, and we went with six types from the area. I took it slow this time, instead of rushing through. Anyway, this time, I paid close attention to the size of the oyster; the brine, the texture. I still have a lot to learn, but savoring those clean bites was a much better experience than before. Not ready for a quiz on which oysters were from which body of water, but ask me this time next year...
From the clean sensation of the oysters I then savored the swordfish mousse on sourdough crisps with pickled shallots. You have salty, sweet, smoky, crunchy, tangy; I’m an absolute sucker for such a combo. With a sip of the seasonal drink from the tasting menu, a peach negroni, and a few minutes to soak up the earthy, wooded room, I was ready to let the Peruvian inspired dinner begin.
The Oyster Club has become known for its innovation and creativity in the kitchen. When quickly talking to chefs Amee Hussey and Renee Touponce before service one afternoon, Chef Hussey talked about how much they gain from each other in the kitchen. Inspired by the backgrounds of fellow staff, they wanted to pay homage to the flavors of Peru. She admits it is “one of the best cuisines around.” Chef Hussey has been at The Oyster Club since the very beginning, so when talking to her about its evolution, you can really sense the pride in the restaurant's growth and overall experience they give to diners. “Being at Oyster Club feels like you are cooking for your family, which I think is why it is so special.”
So, the tasting menu began with an amuse bouche of a Peruvian Causa which is like an amplified potato salad; absolutely nothing plain about this little bite. Using a honey nut squash for the layers in between a potato egg salad combo, it was colorful, cold, and full of bright flavor. We moved on to something I could live on everyday: ceviche. Theirs was with tilefish, and, the leche de tiger, or marinade used to cure the fish in Peruvian ceviche, had just enough tang without removing the taste of the fish altogether. Surrounded by big kernels of Flint corn, a salsa criolla of pepper and lime, and sweet potato, I could have had another round of the ceviche, if it wasn’t for the fact that more courses were coming. Offering that same clean sensation you get from sushi, it was so cold, light, and bold.
“This is off the charts,” and “This is so different, just incredible.” These were comments I overheard from two other couples obviously a course or two ahead of me on the same evening. Gushing along with them, it was clear the rest of the meal would continue to be memorable and delicious.
The 85th Day Food Community, the umbrella restaurant and catering group helmed by Dan Meiser and James Wayman and encompasses The Oyster Club, Engine Room, Grass & Bone, have created an esteemed model for collaboration and community. I’ve talked with Wayman a few times before, and have experienced each restaurant. And, after spending a day at Stone Acres Farm, another community partner, the passion and importance he places on the community is deeply evident in what he does and says. That his colleagues have a platform for creativity, and that local farmers, fisherman, and chefs have a voice is crystal clear. Nothing stops at a great plate of food; just as musicians in an orchestra might put on a great show yet must always practice and grow, those in the food industry must work, respect, and share in the responsibilities of an ever changing community.
Despite the challenges of 2020, The Oyster Club was able to successfully follow through with their plans to expand the interior kitchens, upstairs, treehouse, and patio. Between the pandemic and expansion they were closed for about six months before reopening more fully in September.
A Night in Peru Continues
The range of flavors, textures and temperatures continued during the tasting menu as I was served the Aji de Gallina Chicken in an aji sauce with fingerlings and a Gigante Bean Salad with an aji verde, lime vinaigrette and cherry tomatoes. Having such a fusion of components, from the actual meal to service, you just can’t deny the metaphor of the orchestra in relation to the whole experience.
When I asked about their own memorable experiences at The Oyster Club, Sous Chef Touponce remembers, it was after a long day of prep when new to the “family” a few years ago. “From a New Year’s Eve menu called, ‘A Night in Bangkok,’ the food was insane! It was a six course meal that took you on a ride. One dish that I remember the most was a raw salad of kohlrabi, and dried cured scallops that I still think about to this day. The textures and flavors were so different, and unique. That’s what’s so great about The Oyster Club. We’re able to explore food and do a version of it our way with the ingredients we have around us…James and Dan have created these amazing food platforms for us to grow and express ourselves…”
After such a bold dinner performance, what makes sense but to have a smooth, light dessert that does not overpower the previous courses; the panna cotta with creme caramel offered a perfectly sweet finish.
Although you really should have oysters at The Oyster Club to open your palate and pay homage to a charming spot by the sea, who the heck am I to tell you what to do? But I will urge you to go there and dine. Take note of the range of flavors and textures of each menu; sneak a peek of the kitchen as they execute phenomenal service; lean your ear in on the experimentation they are doing--don’t get me started on what they are doing with Bob Florence of Moromi, who is creating magic with koji--but I can pretty much guarantee, you will walk out of there with a smile.
I asked Chef de Cuisine Amee Hussey what still inspires her after nearly a decade there. She said, “walking through the orange doors feels like home. The building, coworkers, kitchen family...the love we all have for each other, for food and life.”
Happy Birthday To The Oyster Club!
13 Water Street, Mystic
Oysterclubct.com
@oysterclubct
[Photography courtesy of Catherine Dzilenski, Idlewild Photo Co]
