Q&A: CRAZIES Nominee "Best Chef of the Year" Ashley Flagg of Millwright's

Photo Credit: Lisa Nichols/Bread & Beast

Each year, the CT Restaurant Association recognizes the exceptional ability and talent of Connecticut’s restaurant community in the prestigious CRAzies awards. Restaurant owners, operators, chefs, and vendors come together to celebrate the success of the industry at Foxwoods Resort Casino on Monday, December 6. While a panel of more than 25 food writers, critics, bloggers, and social media influencers created a list of nominees, YOU VOTE for the winners.

We are excited to showcase the nominees for BEST CHEF OF THE YEAR in our new series. All the candidates worked incredibly hard to receive this nomination, and while many of you may know some of them, you probably don’t know all of them. We sat down with each of these talented chefs to learn a little bit more about what makes them do what they do. We begin with Chef Ashley Flagg of Millwrights, in Simsbury CT.

Ashley Flagg - Millwrights, Simsbury 

1.  When did you decide you wanted to be a chef and was there a particular moment or event that led to that?

I was studying to get my Masters in Social Work and I had previously been working as a live-in counselor for young women with behavioral and mental health disorders.  Part of my responsibilities was to cook with them and teach them how to cook healthy meals for themselves.  

I really fell in love with cooking because of this and decided to make the career change, and at 25 years old I had my first cooking job at Grants working under Billy Grant and Jon Hudak and I haven’t looked back.  That decade from then to now flew by.

2.  If you couldn’t be a chef, what would you be passionate enough about to make a career out of instead?

It’s hard to imagine being anything but a Chef at this point, it has become a part of who I am.  One day I just looked down and I was covered in burns, and had a couple forearm tattoos.  While I know I could always get back into Social Work, I am not so sure I can tame the Chef enough to do that again.  

I’ve always loved to work with my hands and I think in a different life I would have loved to be a Landscaper or a Carpenter.  I love to look back at the end of day and see the physical evidence of my hard work.  

3.  Has Covid made you a better/worse chef? What have you done to balance your work/personal life throughout the pandemic?

I tell my cooks when they have a tough shift that these hard days make all the other ones seem easier.  The pandemic has been one long eternal tough shift but it will make the “normal” seem so much easier when we get back to it.

I feel like this has made me a stronger chef because it has forced me to adapt in ways I never thought i would have to.  Whether that’s running a togo restaurant out of Millwrights kitchen, running a four course prefix menu for 120 people every night out of a 6 burner food truck, or dealing with product shortages.  

It also reinforced a need to be patient to with each other, and everyone we are working with.  Our purveyors, farmers and artisans have had a tough pandemic as well and our relationships with them are incredibly important so we make sure to be in good spirits with them even when something goes wrong.

In terms of work/ life balance, I am honestly fortunate enough that my bosses, Tyler Anderson and AJ Auricchio, have chosen to close the restaurant on Mondays and Tuesdays.  While we have the ability to be open on those days, and be busy,  they have put the value of our personal time ahead of that and that has been a life saver.  I cant even remember the last time I had two days off, let alone two days in a row.  Because of this I am able to spend all my time off at home with my wife and dogs working on our new house and relaxing.

4.  How do you think people seeing you on the list or winning will affect your business?

It’s so nice to be included in this list, and to be in such good company.  I think the awards do a great job of highlighting the Connecticut Culinary world.  I hope that people who haven’t thought to dine with us previously know that we are having a ton of fun and we are cooking new food and changing the menu all the time to keep up with the seasons and to keep things exciting.

5.  What is your favorite restaurant in CT and why?

I have a ton of favorites and I refuse to pick one

Bricco West Hartford-  Because Billy Grant.  The food is always good, its consistent and so much fun.

Osa and Krust-  I think what Rich and Kevin have done is amazing,  food is always perfect, the space is beautiful and those damn cookies are unreal.  

Grano Arso-  We love this place so much.  We were married in Chester and its such an amazing part of this state and they are so lucky to have Joel and Lani.  I love everything they do here, including Lanis pop ups,  and how they handled the pandemic was graceful.  

Tavern on State-  I mean obviously.  If you haven’t been here you’re insane.  I don’t get to go often but I love watching what Emily is cooking, its honestly inspiring and fun to see her kill it all the time.

Kawit-  This one is maybe a little biased.  I worked with Kevin at Hamilton Park in New Haven and got to try his and his husband, Seths, Filipino food at a pop up they did at our roof top bar.  If i had any money to invest I would invest in these two they are destined for greatness and I cant wait for them to open a brick and mortar but right now they are running a ghost kitchen in new haven which you can check out.

Black Bamboo- I have probably eaten more food from this place than anyone should admit too.  Sonny is amazing, I’ve never had a bad meal and I’m pretty sure I’ve eaten everything on the menu multiple times.

I can keep going and I’m gonna pissed later when i realize who i forgot.  

6.  What do you consider to be your signature dish?

I definitely don’t have a signature dish because anything can be improved on.  I tend to use certain elements consistently though for example piperade, which is like a pepper stew, from Basque Country where my grandmother is from.  I use it as a base for a ton of dishes.  

I also rely heavily on fermentation and preservation,  I love making hot sauces and myself and Kristin Eddy (our Pastry Chef and Chaperone) preserve a ton because it allows us to use things from the Farms year round and extend the seasons.  

Also Mole Poblano, I don’t really know why but I am obsessed with it, I order it ever time I see it too.  I bet Tyler never thought Mole would be on the menu at Millwrights.

7.  What is your favorite part of being a chef in Connecticut?

Our industry has such a great community.  I’ve grown so much as a person while being a chef and this industry has been patient and supportive while I became a much better version of myself.  I’m still working on becoming the best version of myself, I’m sure my wife will let me know when i get a little closer.

I think it’s so amazing to just see so many happy, talented, diverse, and passionate people changing the dynamic of this community.  A see the days of crazy egos, terrible work environments and angry abusive chefs dying out.  Now you see people treating their kitchens like their families and i think that makes the food so much better.  Sure people will work hard for you if you terrify them, but they will work even harder for they know you care about them.  They will be invested in making something better with you.