Columbus Park Trattoria: A Stamford Italian Favorite Gets A New Look

Last week I had the privilege of revisiting an old favorite, Columbus Park Trattoria. It’s been many years since I’d eaten there, for no reason other than I had been sticking closer to home. But with the Coronavirus in full swing, travel opportunities so limited, and the ease of traveling on I-95 these days, I have started taking to the road for mini adventures and in search of a good bite to eat – and I’ve been encouraging others to do the same in effort to support our restaurants. 

What’s resulted is the discovery of wonderful, new to me, places that previously would have not have been on my radar and the rediscovery of some old loves. Although food will always be the focal point, the simple act of dining out is really so much more, it’s an experience – something we seem all to be craving. 

When restaurants were forced to close their doors late last winter Columbus Park Trattoria, already set to start a quick refresh, decided to use the closure to their advantage by renovating their space that had gone unchanged since the mid 1980s.  What resulted was a major transformation, creating a brighter, minimalist interior along with an expanded bar area. While the dark walls and table cloths may be no more, Mama’s cuisine still reigns supreme.

As we awaited our food, owner Michael Marchetti sat down with us and shared the family story which began with Mama offering cooking lessons from home, to opening up their first restaurant, a pizza joint that would become a fan favorite which then made way for a succession of successful restaurants. Columbus Park Trattoria remains a favorite because they believe in simplicity; dishes made with the simplest and freshest of ingredients, and customers who are like family. As Michael continued on passionately, our food arrived. 

We began with two appetizers. The Ostriche features Copps Island Oysters on the half shell, ever so lightly battered with a buttery lemon sauce, that were beautifully plated on bed of coarse sea salt and multicolored peppercorns. The oysters were light, delicate and buttery. Next we enjoyed the Crespelle Ai Funghi, Italian style crêpes sautéed with wild mushrooms, accompanied by a tarragon, tomato, béchamel sauce. The Italian crêpe is similar to the French but has an eggier consistency and more akin to a paper-thin omelet. Loaded with mushrooms, bursting with flavor, this dish was light, yet warm and comforting enough for a chilly winter afternoon.

Onto the pasta. The cavatelli is mama’s famous cavatelli, lovingly hand-rolled the old-fashioned way, piece by piece. We enjoyed ours with broccoli rabe, roasted garlic and sweet Italian sausage.  As delicious as it was, The Chestnut Ravioli was exceptional, and in my opinion, the star of the show. Each supple center was filled with a roasted chestnut and mascarpone cheese, smooth, creamy - with a subtle nutty sweetness well balanced by bits of savory pancetta. This is divine deliciousness, comfort on a plate.

From pasta to carne… 

A dish as vibrant as springtime, the Seabreem, was as stunning as it was delicious. This light, mild fish was served over a fava bean purée, potato and spinach. A golden crispy exterior yielded a perfectly tender fish, so well flavored that it stood up to the bold flavors of the purée and the spinach.

For the carnivore, let me direct you to the pork chop; tender, juicy and served with roasted garlic and cherry peppers for a nice touch of heat. Scarpariello fans may want to check this one out.

Like many restaurants nationwide, the pandemic has proved quite challenging to Columbus Park. Add to this the City of Stamford no longer permits outside dining at restaurants that don’t have their own private parking lots. All sidewalk seating has been temporarily suspended, making things particularly challenging to those restaurants in area. 

And yet, with all these challenges at hand, last Spring, Michael helped joined forces with Food for Behind the Lines, a not-for-profit grassroots startup, to donate over 300 meals to Connecticut restaurant industry and healthcare workers on the front lines of the COVID-19 pandemic. 

Operating at 50% capacity, Columbus Park is meticulous adhering to the state’s COVID-19 rules and regulations, and they take these guidelines with the utmost seriousness. For those wanting to book a space for a small party, the sizable upstairs dining room, is bright, roomy and perfectly set up to accommodate your socially distant event. 

Columbus Park Trattoria
205 Main Street
Stamford, CT 06902
(203) 967-9191

HOURS:
Lunch - Wed-Fri 12:00pm - 2:30pm
Dinner - Mon-Sat 5:00pm - 9:30pm
*Closed Sundays*

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About the redesign by Creative Table:

The interior is light and airy with architectural touches that are modern and sleek. The bar is crafted of white quartz and walnut stained wood. A 7 ft tall partition separates the bar from the dining area, and the bar area was expanded under an existing staircase to allow for more space. A bronze mirror and floating glass shelves give a warm, contemporary look. Venetian plaster technique was applied to two interior walls that add texture and the exposed brick wall. The ceiling which was dark has lightened up with bright with copper moldings. Accent colors of mustard yellow on the bar stools, a luxurious blue for the banquet, clay red for the dining room chairs and a soft green on the wall highlight the colors of Puglia and Southern Italy to reflect the roots of the Marchetti family.