Nick Martschenko Opens Mexican-Inspired SE The Back End in New Canaan

Photos by Stephanie Webster and Andrew Dominick

Nick Martschenko is ever so closer to his monopoly on New Canaan’s restaurant scene. Even if that’s not the goal, he’s inching towards it with what’s now a downtown dining trifecta.

His latest venture, The Back End, is different. You can’t compare it to his flagship fine dining South End. And it’s not reminiscent of the laid-back but chatty speakeasy-meets-pub atmosphere of SE Uncorked, that stars “snacks + taps” (and cocktails and one damn fine burger).

“I wanted it (The Back End) to have Miami vibes, at least I want it to have that feel,” Martschenko says. “I envision it with the bar windows wide open, a super casual setting with lots of colors, lots of pink. Ruth (Stiefel) helped a lot with the design.”

The Back End is Mexican. Well, sort of. A more accurate description is Mexican inspired with a fine dining twist, and a little fast casual tossed into the mix.

“It’s elevated Mexican food,” Martschenko says. “I’m not gonna say we’re traditional, but we bear the traditional values of what we do. It’s different. I don’t know how to do it any other way.”

House Standard Margarita with sea salt foam (in back), (left front) Cuatro Mojito (Don Q Cristal Rum, prosecco, fresh pineapple juice, lime, mint, simple syrup), (right) Daredevil (serrano infused Pueblo Viejo Tequila, house citrus juice, blood orange puree, Combier, muddled strawberry, simple syrup).

Some of that “different” intertwined with tradition can be found first on The Back End’s cocktail list. A house margarita here isn’t salt rimmed—though I’m sure they’d do it if you asked nicely—it’s topped off with a salty, sweet foam. The rest of the margs—and the other mixed drinks—use fresh squeezed juices, purees, spices, and herbs that’ll awaken your senses. Additionally, there are four different mojitos, a few mezcal libations, wine on tap, sangria, and a combined beer list of Mexican lagers and local craft.

In the kitchen at The Back End, there’s a chance that Uncorked regulars will recognize Moises Aguilar, who has worked alongside Martschenko for over 20 years dating back to their days at Gramercy Tavern. Martschenko told us that he’s psyched that Aguilar is getting a stage to show off what he can do when he combines his Mexican culture with creative liberties.

(Left to right) chicken burrito, seared ahi tuna (cactus salad, queso fresco, cilantro oil), Long Island duck breast with mole and rice & beans

“This is one of the first times in my life when this isn’t all my food,” Martschenko says. “I’m excited for Moises, and I love that he gets to express himself with this food. I remember years ago, he made chicken pot pie for a family meal. It was the best I’ve ever had. He didn’t know that you could buy puff pastry for it. He made it from scratch. It was perfect. He doesn’t know any other way. He takes no shortcuts.”

That mantra of “no shortcuts” rings true at The Back End. They’re roasting their own chili peppers for four different scratch-made salsas. Dunk, dip, mix and match, wash those chips down with your drink.

Hamachi al pastor ceviche

And they’re not afraid to get fancy. Each buttery soft slice of fish in the ceviche dishes are intricately plated with bold, colorful sauces, some spicy, some sweet, with bursts of citrus to balance it all out. Edible flowers and bright herbs make the dishes almost too beautiful to eat, but eat them, you should.

As picturesque and delicious as all that is, there’s plenty of guilty pleasure goodness happening here. And we’re back to taking Mexican fare and flipping the script with it. An inverted mushroom quesadilla is plenty gooey on the inside, but the kicker is that the outside of the tortilla is coated in queso, then griddle-pressed for a crispy cheese effect.

There’s also a play on that shaved Brussels sprouts salad that’s on practically every Fairfield County restaurant’s menu. The Back End gives it a much-needed refresh as it’s dressed in a tomatoey, slightly spicy sangrita vinaigrette, and served with a toasted blue corn potato taco.

Piggybacking off of that…there are more tacos.

The Back End’s no shortcuts philosophy shows up in each handheld. Actually, the only shortcut they do take is that their corn tortillas are from Tortilleria Nixtamal in Queens. “We made our own at the beginning,” Martschenko says. “They were good, but we wanted more consistency. We might do it again if we’re happy with it.”

But the meaty fillings? No shortcuts there. Their birria tacos (because they’re hot right now) are 45-hour marinated, then slow cooked for five hours. The shredded short rib gets packed into a folded-over corn tortilla a la plancha and doused with consommé.

There are a few tacos that fully break Mexican tradition, like a seven-day cured pastrami taco with homemade mustard sauce, and a cheeseburger taco that’s an ode to Uncorked’s popular Double Double.

Rounding out the rest are a chicken pibil taco (dark meat, slow cooked in banana leaves), a fish taco, and a vegan friendly cauliflower al pastor.

The Back End’s larger plates like pork carnitas, a chicken burrito, and chicken enchiladas tend to lean more towards Mexican authenticity. But what’s more classic Mexican than a low-and-slow, deeply flavorful mole? Aguilar’s is a mole poblano. Correction. It’s his mother’s recipe that features a not so secret ingredient. “Lots of chilis and my mom’s homemade chocolate,” Aguilar says. “She makes chocolate homemade from the cacao bean. She made the mole on video for me so I could replicate it.” The mole appears as a thick, liquid bed for medium rare Long Island duck and rice & beans. No drop of mole should be left behind. Drag those slices of duck through it and sop up the rest with the rice.

Another family recipe appears as a sweet treat; the tres leches cake is Aguilar’s girlfriend’s recipe. If cake isn’t your thing, maybe arroz con leche or churros are.

Because The Back End is right behind Uncorked, you can order from both menus. Want an old fashioned? A burger or cheesesteak with a couple tacos on the side? No problem.

Coming soon, according to Martschenko, is an expanded outdoor patio now that he has that whole alleyway from Uncorked to The Back End on lock. At some point, the plan is to do whole animal roasts back there. Think fire roasted pigs, lamb, and the like.

Currently, Martschenko will tell you that he thinks The Back End hasn’t quite hit its stride but believes the sky’s the limit for his new concept.

His hope? “High end fast casual with a Michelin Star,” he says. “And I mean that as humbly as possible.”

 17 Elm Street (behind SE Uncorked); New Canaan
203.594.9130; https://www.thesouthendgroup.com/thebackend