Hudson Malone Opens in Westport From NYC's Legendary PJ Clarkes' Bartender, Doug Quinn

Jessica Ryan March 07, 2021

Hudson Malone is a unique place - a casual upscale eatery designed to be a neighborhood favorite welcoming repeat diners seeking comfort by the familiar and wowed by the unexpected. Upon entering the restaurant you’ll first notice the bar which has that old school, saloon style. Assorted painting, photography, memorabilia and Americana artifacts animate the walls throughout the establishment. You’ll see hints of New York City blending in seamlessly with the local backdrop. No matter how often you dine here, you’re sure to notice something new every time.

A rough hewn wood ceiling and support beams offer a rustic yet comforting tone balanced by the warm glow of the lighting overhead and stone fireplace. Natural sunlight streams in through the newly added windows along the left hand side which bounces off the elaborate navy lacquered ceiling. It’s cozy. It’s casual and it’s sophisticated. The setting is only part of the experience - for the rest you need to meet Doug Quinn, the man behind the Hudson Malone brand.

Quinn is an institution of sorts and has been in the restaurant industry for over 35 years, earning his reputation from behind the bar at the renowned PJ Clarkes where he mastered the art of bartending, honing the craft of the cocktail as well as the importance of tending to his customers. It was at PJ Clarke’s he established his now infamous “Quinn’s Rules'' which you’ll find listed over the bar. It was there he earned the reputation as the best bartender in New York, a title that according to many still holds true.

Named for his two sons, the original Hudson Malone, a tribute to old New York, is located in Midtown. The restaurant has been a success since its inception in 2013, though due to the recent pandemic has had to shut its doors temporarily.

Quinn, a lively and colorful character is a bit of a celebrity himself. Dressed in a black fedora with a red feather sticking up, an untied purple bowtie hung loosely from his neck and matched his purple vest. His eyes twinkled as he welcomed me to his establishment in his distinguishable New York accent, a discernible part of his colorful personality. “Hudson Malone is all about experience,” he explained. “I like to greet my customers personally and shake their hands.” Quinn, who’s at the restaurant every day, is known for walking over to every table and checking in on his guests. At Hudson Malone the experience is everything - it’s about the food, it’s about the atmosphere, and it’s about having a good time.

I was seated in a corner booth in the back on an elegant navy velvet sectional backlit by the expansive windows with the shiny blue lacquer painted ceiling and oversized navy and brass nautical lighting overhead. An oil painting of Paul Newman and several black and white photographs, including one of Quinn and another of his sons, kept me company in his absence. Hudson Malone is as much a feast for the eyes as it is the soul.

Each dish is personal to Quinn. Many have been passed down through his family, others are inspired by many of the city’s top restaurants and chefs - many who are personal friends of his. You’ll see nods to all on the menu which boasts a vast selection. You’ll find everything from tartare and ceviche to assorted fish, pasta, burgers and steaks. “I take a recipe and make it my own,” he explained to me. The Steak Tartare, for example, is a nod to the now shuttered 21 Club. The Vassar educated, self trained chef understands the importance of flavor and expects nothing less than perfection, whether it’s as simple as a burger and fries or something more complex.

Upon glancing at the menu I noticed that there’s something for everyone. Quinn sent over dish after dish for me to try. I began with some small plates. The Midi Dayboat Ceviche was delightfully refreshing. It features market catch shrimp with lemon drop peppers, cherry tomatoes and lemon lime juices that give it a delightful zing. For ceviche fans, you won’t be disappointed. The Ridiculous Tiger Prawns are just that, ridiculous! These enormous shrimp pair delightfully with a plateful of Copps Island oysters. The Gotham Tuna Tartare features sushi grade tuna, sesame oil and seeds, avocado and housemade chips. Tartare fans mustn't miss this nod to an old favorite. The potato-length chips are amusing and fun. Ingredients matter here and fish is sourced locally when possible or from the Fulton Markets.

A nod to the recently shuttered 21 Club, the steak tartare bearing its name, features a beautiful organic quail egg, seasoned with shallots, capers, red pepper and dijon, this well flavored filet mignon would have made its namesake proud. Quinn sources his grass-fed meats from Pat LaFreida, New York’s premier butcher.

May I also suggest a bowl of comfort? The gnocchi made with a non-pine nut pesto and a touch of cream makes this light potato pasta dish seem extra luxurious. Enjoy a bowlful as your entrée or share it with a friend as an appetizer. Also noteworthy and share-worthy is the Toy Box Burrata (above). Multi-colored Toy Box heirloom cherry tomatoes are quartered, partnered up with shallots, olive oil, a touch of balsamic and julienned basil - a perfect blend of acid to balance the smooth creaminess of the burrata.

Sometimes, no matter how fabulous everything looks on the menu, you just want a burger and only a burger will do. The burgers all feature a special house blend of Pat LaFreida beef, tomatoes, onions, American cheese… Different versions offer caramelized onions, bacon and au poivre sauce. The bacon though. You must indulge in the bacon, a Colossal-Cut Candied Bacon, “absolute maple & peppery heaven.” I had a hard time deciding which was the star of the show, the burger or the bacon!

I’ve saved my favorite for last. Let me recommend the Cioppino which, in my opinion, stole the show. The Angry Cioppino is a Mediterranean style (tomato based) dish with a nice amount of heat and is abundant with mussels, prawns, cod, and little necks served with a generous amount of grilled crusty bread for sopping up all that delicious sauce.

Since the bar plays such a prominent role here, why not treat yourself to something special? Old school cocktails inspired by the celebrities that enjoyed them are popular choices here. I enjoyed the Sidecar, a smooth, shaken over ice, blend of Cointreau and cognac, fresh lemon syrup and a flamed orange peel for a little drama. I was going to allow myself just one sip, but it’s smooth warmth offered the perfect comfort on a cold day.

For those wanting to end the meal with a little something sweet, how about the Afogado? A shot of espresso, a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a lady finger, topped off with the aforementioned maple-pepper bacon… but there’s a bit of a show with this one. And I’ll just leave it at that. I’ll save the surprise for you to enjoy!

The items I had were a mix from the dinner and lunch menus. I have not yet tried their brunch but the items on the menu looked amazing. I also want to note that I packaged all the leftovers to go, and everything travelled well including the burger. For those who are not comfortable dining out at the moment, let me be the first to suggest taking advantage of their curbside pickup - treat yourself well to a restaurant meal at home.

Hudson Malone is open for lunch and dinner as well as the hours in between for those who want to stop in for a drink, a small bite, a late or early meal.
(203) 635-7400
323 Main Street, Westport, CT 06880