J.B. Percival: Craft Cocktails in Fairfield

Punch “J.B. Percival” into Google Maps and you’ll be well on your way to enjoying an expertly mixed drink in Fairfield County’s only straight up cocktail lounge. All that’s left is actually finding the entrance.

Your GPS will tell you “you’ve arrived,” and you’ll likely be close, whether you’re parked at Fairfield Metro or parallel on Unquowa Street. There’s still a bit of legwork left. Head down Donnelly Walk, spot a handful of outdoor seats, and you’ll ultimately see their logo and “Permittee Amy O’Shea” decaled on the glass door.

Mr. Bogart is waiting to greet you. And to sum up the house rules…NO RIFF RAFF!

Those RH Aviator Chairs are straight fire

If you’re just now hearing about J.B. Percival, it might be because O’Shea and her husband, Billy, opened their doors at the start of 2020. Nine weeks after they began mixing drinks and pouring pints, they were shut down for on-premise everything like every bar and restaurant was. Like most, they pivoted to a takeout model selling to-go cocktails, cocktail kits, wine, eggs, honey, masks, hand sanitizer, and even vegetables. As restrictions eased, J.B. Percival started slinging drinks for outdoor patio consumption, and then, finally, it was back to welcoming customers back indoors.

In 2021, Billy—who’s a builder by trade—and a close friend took the time to renovate the cocktail lounge and bar with an industrial themed makeover that pays homage to Connecticut’s manufacturing history.

Head bartender Walker La Vardera started bartending after college when he lived in Phoenix. In Norwalk, he’s likely made you a drink at The Ginger Man, Cask Republic, The Spread, and Local. “I wanted a change of pace after working in SoNo,” he says. “I never have to kick anyone out of here, or cut anyone off, and no one has puked in here.”

“We both lived in Manhattan and were big fans of The Campbell Apartment (before it changed ownership),” Amy says. “We like the old industrial theme with the couches, the leather. We got the old steamer trunks (used as tables) from Mongers Market with the original ship stickers still on them. The grate behind the bar is from Mongers, as is the old wooden door, and the bar top is from an old bowling alley. All the historic tool manufacturing pictures are from Bridgeport, from Moore Tool, where Billy used to work years ago.”

But why Billy, a former builder, and Amy, a former real estate lawyer would open a cocktail lounge where the classics are front-and-center is pretty simple…there wasn’t another one around.

Bartender’s choice…with gin. Walker will gladly make you a riff if you give him a flavor profile.

“We were tired of the lack of or subpar cocktail bars here,” Amy says. “We didn’t want a place where people were still eating dinner, but just mainly for drinks, and a place to make your night a little longer, like ‘the kids are still awake, let’s not go home yet!’ We envisioned it as another stop you’d make during your evening out, before or after a concert, or before or after dinner.”

Don’t worry, though. It’s fine if J.B. Percival isn’t one of your stops, but THE only stop.

What you’ll encounter on their menu of tried and true classics are a Vesper Martini (if you’re channeling your inner 007), a honey sweet Bee’s Knees, and another Prohibition era creation, the gin, Chartreuse, maraschino liqueur, and lime blend that is the Last Word.

Any cocktail enthusiast should expect a slew of slow sippers with bourbon or rye as the base spirit. An old fashioned with only a touch of simple syrup—JBP likes to let the bourbon shine—is a perfect balance of strong and smooth, as is their rye-based Manhattan, a personal go-to of mine.

If the New Orleans invented Sazerac or the bitterness of an Italian Negroni is more your speed, they’re happy to oblige this request and pretty much any off menu drink you desire, though they probably aren’t going to mix you a Cuervo Especial with Sprite.  

Left to right: Old Fashioned, Manhattan, Negroni. Drink all three and it’s a good night’s sleep.

Also on their drink list besides some seasonal cocktails and a trio of dessert drinks—yes, that means an espresso martini—are eight beer taps with more in cans, and wine by the bottle with some available by the glass. If you are sticking to liquor, their selection of small batch local and local-ish spirits are worth an inquiry. Bar snacks like cheese and charcuterie boards, naan pizza, pimento cheese, hummus, and whipped ricotta should you require some bites with your booze.

According to Amy, J.B. Percival is looking to break out a tiki menu come summertime and teased a possible special appearance by an industry celebrity.

“Our painkiller and rum swizzle did well last year, so we want to bring those back and have a bit of a nautical theme,” she says. “People love a good tropical drink in the summer. We obviously don’t want all rum cocktails, so we might try our own versions of those drinks, even with a variation on a Mai Tai.”

And that special guest that promised to come by for a meet-and-greet, book signing type of deal? Sother Teague of Amor y Amargo fame and an overall NYC bartending legend.

Get excited. But until then, pull up and have a few.

63 Unquowa Road; Fairfield
203.292.6301; jbpercival.com