Josie and Tony’s Italian Deli & Supper Club Opens in South Norwalk

Lloyd Allen

Joshua Anthony Mesnik’s Josie and Tony’s is a Throwback To The Future

Actors take classes. Actors wait tables. Actors go to casting calls. Actors land roles.

Joshua Anthony Mesnik studied musical theatre at NYU, did all of the above, landing roles off-Broadway, but while he pursued his acting career it became apparent his main stage was not on Broadway. His shows were wowing New York audiences, but the scripts he memorized were on menus and wine lists. There were scenes to define, refine and flesh out.

He opened at ABC Carpet, had successful runs at Sushi Samba and Cafe Luxembourg, discovered the sexy, seductive storytelling aspects inside a bottle of wine from his role at Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill.

A one Virginia Philip, Master Sommelier at The Breakers mentored him, he then upped the ante directing the wine scene at The Standard High Line Hotel. There’s a lot more, but long story short, he’s going it alone.

Well, not completely. A few of his big fans are involved and invested, not to mention the other 50 devotees of fine food who ponied up a few G’s to cover the yearly membership fee for his soon to be opened dinner club. But no matter all of this, Josie & Tony’s, yes, named after his grandparents, strives to be a show stopping, luxurious dining experience for all.

That means everyone. That’s what I said. For all. All of us who missed the membership deadline, all off us who would not or could not take out a yearly subscription to be guaranteed a table at this semi-private restaurant but wouldn’t mind dropping in for a fun food experience every now and then. Joshua’s going seat you. He gave me his word. “Just be nice”  —yes, that’s what he said. At the moment, he needs a 7 day advance reservation.

We stopped in to get a taste on the last preview night. Mr. Mesnik has managed to pull together a seasoned cast for Josie and Tony’s, all, veterans in the business. The menu, scripted with a mix of Italian classics and memorable family dishes, both, products of Joshua’s deft direction and an uncanny ability to collaborate.

Starring roles go to Executive Chef Marcelo Flores and his brother Francisco. Many of you will remember them from Joe Bruno’s masterpiece “Pasta Nostra.” They’ve brought over some classic bits from that venue. Mr. Mesnik has concurred, tipping his hat to Joe with only the slightest of tweaks.

Right hand man and chief of staff Gene Rigo has that winning smile that assures you, me and everyone in between that “you’re in the right place.”

Sitting bar side, reveling in the relaxed intimacy, we were entertained by his lead bartender, James Luchessi, effortlessly mixing drinks, all the while fielding menu inquiries. Wonderfully polite, he answered guest’s questions with a confident yet gentle demeanor. Bravo Joshua! Spectacular choice.

I ordered the artichoke, a deja vu dish from Joshua’s past. Gianna selected the chilled seafood salad. We shared. The artichoke is served warm, the slow braise in olive oil was a welcome diversion from the typical steamed artichoke served chilled. Rubbed in Parmesan, bread crumbs, garlic, salt and pepper. then an ultra slow braise for a few hours pushed the black pepper front and center, behind it the warm blend of Parm and fine crumbs. The heart’s firm tenderness did not disappoint; a welcome finale.

We were both bowled over by the freshness of the chilled seafood salad. The shrimp and calamari were tender and light; no rubber here. Celery, sliced thin, crunched as if it had just been picked. Faint hints of a Habanero worked to define the ocean flavors as did the bright acidity from the lemon. Gianna’s remark, “I’d eat this again for breakfast.”

For my entrée, I chose the pappardelle with chicken livers. Interestingly, the pasta pieces measured a sensible 4 inches in length. A single twist of my fork found bite size portions every time. Joshua’s fondness for chicken livers married and matched Marcelo’s penchant of adding foie gras —both, sautéed with mushroom, sage, onions and Parmesan. A luxurious comfort food. Enough said? Probably not.

Gianna psyched herself up for the halibut. It was sold out but James assured us the Black Sea bass was a worthy stand in for the recipe. He was not wrong. The sweet and mildly spicy sauce partnered perfectly with the bass. An arugula salad softly supported Ruby Red grapefruit slices, a nice ending to the dish.

The dessert list — short and sweet, a mere five suggestions. No matter, because Joshua had been talking up the rainbow cookie all week. James gave us a courteous checkered flag and we were off to the races. The cookie, cut into one inch cubes, tumbled rubik-like on the plate. Homemade raspberry jam peeked out from under the warmed chocolate’s edge. The combo of flavors and textures confirmed Joshua’s excitement. However, this was not the end to our evening. Even more fun, no wait —Way funner was the bag of Zeppoles. Presented at the bottom of a white waxed bag, no less, in powdered sugar to do what else? Shake it up!

Joshua Anthony Mesnik puts the fun back into luxurious dinning. Let’s the hot air out of the serious food  formula. Adds wit to where it wants to be. Yes, there is an art to entertaining. And yes, some people have it. Break a leg Josh. If you ask me, Josie and Tony’s is one, singular sensation.

Josie and Tony’s 20 N Main St, Norwalk

@josieandtonys