Le Mazet Opens With Beautiful French Country Cuisine in West Hartford

This past Summer, a quiet transition began to take place at 975 Farmington Avenue in West Hartford. The much adored Arethusa was closing its doors making way for a new French country-style restaurant. This wasn’t exactly a case of  “in with the new and out with the old,” because although the name on building has changed, Le Mazet has very much incorporated the Arethusa into the fold. 

The interior pays homage to the iconic dairy farm by keeping the wonderful black and white farm images that line the warm walls of exposed brick, as well as the familiar black and white floor tiles. The glass paneled refrigerators that once housed pints of strawberry, chocolate, mint chocolate chip and, my personal favorite – sweet cream – frozen deliciousness, are now home to a pleasant selection of carefully curated bottles of wine. The ice cream counter has morphed into a sleek bar of subtle sophistication where a white granite counter rests on top of a rich wood base accentuated by golden bar stools. Buttery, oversized caramel-colored banquettes rest along the restaurant’s perimeter, allowing diners to dine in the lap of luxurious comfort.  The iconic dairy farm also plays an important role in the menu where its cheeses are star players in many dishes and its ice creams have landed leading roles in the deserts 

It’s still quite a challenge to get a dinner reservation at Le Mazet, and we felt incredibly lucky to score a 5PM seating last week. As soon as we sat down, after taking in the stunning décor, we got right to work scouring the menu. 

Owner Jared Cohen joined us briefly to talk about this new venture. Formerly with Republic, Cohen took a little time off to regroup and redirect his focus when he got together with his good friend Jacob Studenroth, owner of The Wise of Dog, a local liquor store. The idea for Le Mazet was born; a French country restaurant featuring “La Conserve” (Conserva) and Rotisserie. Studenroth helped shape the restaurant’s vision and was also brought on board to curate the wine program. Something was still missing – every restaurant needs a chef. Joe Cusano, a young and very talented chef was the last piece of the puzzle. Cusano, a graduate of Johnson & Whales and trained in classic French Cuisine, was brought on to join the team. Most recently he was Chef de Cuisine at the Max Restaurant Group where he had been for 10 years. 

Cohen shared that there’s still a great misconception with regard to French food and many are intimidated by it. He explained that it’s really simply peasant food. All those favored soups, rotisseries and stews came from peasant origins. They’re hearty and comforting. The essence of what’s offered at the restaurant is simplicity. 

Our food started to arrive and we started out with the Roasted Beets, a delicious mix of purple and golden beets, roasted Honeynut squash with candied walnuts and pomegranate seeds on a bed of a whipped feta. This beautiful dish with its jewel-toned leads, was comfort elevated. The natural sweetness of the beets and squash balanced the savoriness of the whipped goat cheese is one of my favorite combinations. The candied walnuts and pomegranate seeds add a lovely texture.

Next to arrive was the Savory Dutch Baby, a large puffy, savory pancake with sesame seeds and herbs. Light and eggy, this dish was fun and delicious. Have at it with a knife and cut out proper slices, or have fun ripping off a healthy piece for yourself – it’s all part of the experience. 

The French do steak tartare like no other, and The Steak Tartare with panisse + quail egg is some of the best I have had. This savory dish made from finely chopped raw beef, seasoned with onions, capers, Worcestershire sauce, served with raw egg yolk on top is a delicacy appreciated for its flavors and texture. If you like steak tartare you absolutely must indulge here.

Because “La Conserve” (seen above) was the basis for the restaurant, we had try it for ourselves. I was of the opinion that Conserva was affiliated with Spanish and Portuguese cuisines, but after doing a little research, I learned that indeed the roots can be traced back to France. Lore has it that a Frenchman who was shipwrecked off the coast of Spain was responsible for introducing this method of preserving fish and seafood to Spain long before refrigeration. Tinned fish is growing in popularity in the States, but to describe it as that is truly doing it a disservice.

The Octopus Conserve was exquisitely presented and included sliced baguette, country mustard, assorted pickled vegetables, caper berries and charred lemon in a gorgeous wooden low-sided tray. It is as gorgeous as it is delicious and such fun to share with your table.

The Ratatouille was like none I have ever had before. Mostly I’ve had vegetables stewed in tomatoes, and more like a chunky sauce, but here the emphasis is on the vegetables themselves and the integrity of each perfectly cooked thick, tender slice dressed in a basil pesto. Presented in a enamel pot with the lid removed in front of us at the table, this ratatouille demands your full attention. It is also the perfect accompaniment to the The Poisson en Papillot, another dish where presentation takes center stage. Using surgical tools, Cusano sliced open the parchment paper with precision, unleashing an incredibly fragrant steam revealing a delicate and flavorful halibut, potatoes, asparagus, olives and lemon. 

One cannot explore a French restaurant without ordering chicken. No one does roast chicken like the French. Our whole roasted chicken d’ la Rotissoire with potatoes and mirepoix was exactly as we had hoped – juicy, succulent  and nothing short of delicious. The accompanying roasted potatoes and whole carrots were tender yet firm and brimming with flavor.

Sweet dreams are made of these… Chef Joe’s Ice Cream Sandos features Arethusa Ice cream sandwiched in a warm, crispy flaky croissant. Words don’t do this simple treat justice. You will be rendered speechless my friends. The warm chocolate sauce drizzled over the top brings it to the next level.

Maybe you’re more of a warm apple kind of a person. If this is the case, the Charred Apple Crisp is for you. House-made granola, Arethusa vanilla ice cream and warm caramel balance the sweet but slightly tart apples chunks that are baked to perfection. 

Recognizing the importance of supporting local, Le Mazet has partnered with several Connecticut-based businesses. In addition to Arethusa, the restaurant features New Canaan-based Ilse Coffee, Kent Falls Brewing Company, Hugo Tea, Hartford Baking Company, and Island Creek Oyster Company for their “La Conserve” offerings.

Le Mazet is located at 975 Farmington Avenue in West Hartford. 

860-762-4588