Michelin-Starred Chef Opens Athithi Indian Restaurant in Wilton

Okay, let’s be honest. When a foodie hears Michelin star, we can’t help but take notice. There’s a reason the ding and shine of that star draws attention. It means someone’s talents have not only been noticed, but they have consistently delivered The Best of what they do. And that is why making a special trip to Athithi Indian in Wilton was a must for me, and I now declare, a must for you. This new gem opened in the fall and is led by the first Indian Chef to receive a Michelin Star (now two) Chef Hemant Mathur.

I will never call myself an expert of any culinary realm or culture—even though I truly geek out over a few–I can say Indian food continuously has me under a spell. I also never seem to have an Off switch with it either, but that is something I rarely regret. There is just something about the combination of spicy, warm, floral, and earthy aromas and flavors that hit more intensely than  other cuisines that I can rarely shake. Even before I continue, I promise, if you are a fan of this cuisine in the slightest, make a reservation; you will be under the spell too.

The Michelin Guide on Chef Mathur opens with, “If there’s a creative force behind New York’s trending Indian Restaurant scene, it’s Hemant Mathur.” Now a few years later, with the experience of six restaurants to his name, Connecticut diners get to experience some of that magical force with Athithi in Wilton. 

After working at numerous Taj hotels in Delhi, then at private resorts in Mexico and Germany, Mathur landed in New York in the mid-90s. At that time, high-end Indian cuisine was nearly non-existent. According to the Michelin Guide, his “dedication to lift regional Indian cuisine to the eye level of local eaters has been rigorous and noteworthy—he made a name for himself at Tamarind, as well as former white-tablecloth Devi, which he co-owned with Suvir Saran, [and Tulsi, which shuttered” in 2017. Since then, Mathur has been determined to create bistro-like experiences where guests feel comfortable and quickly become regulars.

Considered one of the nation’s top Tandoor Masters, Mathur now has an unstoppable, passionate team at Athithi, including Chef Chandru Krishnasamy who has helped develop numerous restaurants along the East Coast, and Manager Prince Lal who will do anything to ensure the warmth and beating rhythm of the restaurant. With the curation and guidance of Mathur and Krishnasamy, a team of rotating local chefs, ensure the vision and flavors of Athithi are executed perfectly.

To the Table…
Drooling even before the crispy Papadum and Chutneys arrived, I knew we’d want help with the menu. Of course, there are numerous recognizable dishes many of us had like your Tikka Masalas, Samosas, Dal, and Naan, but wanting to dive into as much of an array as possible, we were thankful the staff were like mini Phds with their extensive knowledge of each dish. After our lesson, we were ready to fill the table with the notorious colors and aromas connected with Indian cuisine. We started with the highly recommended Beetroot Cutlet, which is a less than pretty name for a wonderful full mouth of flavor; it was bold and bright, especially once hit with a drop of the Tamarind Aioli. We moved onto another appetizer of Shakarkandi Chaat made with a charcoal smoked Japanese sweet potato and Tamarind Chutney. It is hard to comprehend, but this plate hit every sensory element possible. In addition to the Samosa Tasting plate–which was made with the lightest, flakiest batter I’ve ever had–the Lasooni Kebab (chicken thighs with cilantro, garlic, chili, and pineapple chutney) had everyone at the table swooning over the combination of flavors; it was a true “circus in the mouth” to beckon our inner Kramer from Seinfeld.

We moved on to Upma, a rice flour porridge, served with sweet and sour eggplant, which was bright and light; then a Pistachio Chicken that may not have looked very pretty with its green hue, but was smooth and more subtle than I expected. For old time sake, I had to get the Sag Paneer, which to me, is a must; like having bread with butter, I have to have Naan with Sag. Somehow we found a way to fit in bites of two more recommended items: the Tandoori Tiger Shrimp, made with Yogurt, Garam Masala & Ginger-Garlic served with a Lemon Chutney and the piece de resistance, the dish that had us all baffled in the best way: the Tandoori Lamb Chops served with Mustard Potatoes and Pineapple Chutney First of all, the presentation and the char on the chops were certainly noteworthy, but the flavor and texture really threw me for a loop. I am one of those diners who usually does not order the lamb since it seems every time I do, it is very gamey and tough. Everyone at the table was blown away at how tender they were.

The restaurant uses the phrase Atithi Devo Bahva  which roughly translates to “The Guest is God.” That is quite a powerful statement, and yet, after an experience there, one might better understand the emphasis placed on impeccable service and a beautiful display of passion and cultural pride. The restaurant enlisted the talents of designer Soudi Amini out of Stamford; they asked for a warm, inviting space that captures Athithi’s vision, and Amin’s design team certainly delivered. When I asked the team about the overall reception since they opened in the fall, they really beam with pride. “From the food and decor to flavors and textures, we’ve had an excellent response. We’re so happy we have been able to maintain a high level of consistency and in just three months, already had many repeat customers.” 

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Athithi Indian

14 Danbury Road, Suite 9, Wilton
@athithi_indian_cuisine