Gabagool Wine Bar Opens in Fairfield: Turning Lemons into Limoncello

Gabagool Wine Bar is the newest incarnation of the former Fairfield favorite, Toto Restaurant, which shut its doors suddenly and unexpectedly about a year and a half ago. I worried that, tragically, this too had succumbed to the pandemic, but alas – and thankfully, such was not the case. 

The restaurant that occupied the main level in the red building on Reef Road sat vacant and dark for over a year. This was all due to massive flood caused by a ruptured pipe. With water everywhere, the restaurant’s interior needed to be completely gutted and rebuilt. Thankfully for us restauranteur and owner Antonio Ninivaggi does as only Antonio does… He turned his lemons into limoncello, and thus Gabagool Wine Bar was born.

About a month ago, I noticed that there were quite a few cars in the parking lot and I meandered inside. Antonio saw me and greeted me warmly with a big smile and a hug. He shared the long story of the burst pipe, the lengthy renovation and decided to use this an opportunity to re-design the restaurant’s interior. (Antonio opened Toto in 2015.) The most notable difference is the addition of a bar area which comfortably seats 10 and boasts 4 televisions for cheering on your favorite team or catching an episode of The Godfather or The Sopranos. After getting a good look around and checking out the menu I knew that I had to return.

How best to describe the interior? The name Gabagool is a great start! Fun and whimsical meets a good dose of American-Italian-Jersey-Shore-Hollywood-Gangster and I’m so here for it! You can’t walk into this restaurant and not smile. Antonio’s Italian self-mocking, tongue-in cheek humor is evident at everywhere turn – including a particularly fun Instagram picture-friendly spot that I’m not going to reveal.

“I don’t want to take this [restaurant] or myself too seriously this time around. I want everyone to enjoy themselves and have a good time when they come,” Antonio explained as he pointed to a comical, super tacky half statue high up on a shelf.

But onto the menu, shall we? For those who loved Toto you’ll be thrilled to see many of your favorites return to the new menu, though some with different names to best suit the restaurant’s new vibe. 

For the small plates, you could order, rice balls, potato balls, or Meat the Balls, and if you can’t make up your mind you could have Balls Tasting :)) – And yes, it is printed as such on the menu where every pun, word and misspelling is very intentional. Needless to say we thoroughly enjoyed tasting all the balls (I mean, when in Rome…;) They were delicious. The meat the balls, made from beef and turkey with a tomato sauce, were incredibly palatable and tender. The decadent, velvety potato balls, made with ham and cheese, and a cheddar fondue is reminiscent of a croquette. The more traditional rice balls sit upon a creamy Kalamata, aioli.

We tried the Panzerottini, pockets fried of dough filled with a creamy “mutz” and tomato sauce was unexpectedly light, and I was amazed how savory this simple dish was. (Mutz, pronounced ‘mootz,’ is short for mozzarella, for those of you who don’t speak the language.)

The eggplant rollatini made with spinach, ricotta and tomato sauce was decadent and satisfying especially if you’re a cheese lover.

I was so excited to see the zucchini chips back on the menu. Paper thin slices of zucchini, lightly battered and crisp without so much as a hint of greasiness. The tzatziki sauce is the perfect complement and boy my mouth was happy. These are just as good as I remember them to be. 

The Not too small plates…

The impaled sword fish was another favorite of mine and returns with a new name. Tender pieces of well-seasoned swordfish are skewered together on kebabs with assorted grilled vegetables, tzatziki and pita bread. 

So many items caught my eye and I am eager to return and try the salmon piccata with capers, white wine, and a lemon sauce, as well as some of the pastas, including the orecchiette with beef and turkey ragu. Then there’s the pizza… white, spicy… Who’s coming join me?

A couple of my favorite salads are back on the new menu. The Greek salad with ripe tomatoes, Romaine, oregano, cucumber, red onion, Kalamata, olives, and feta cheese was always a fan favorite, as was the Rocket and Romaine returns as well – made with arugula, Romaine, grapes, dried cranberries, toasted almonds, Gorgonzola, and a shallot vinaigrette. 

Then there’s the cocktail situation and while the names may be silly and fun, the drinks themselves are seriously good.

Howyoudoin is made with spicy tequila, cayenne, honey, fresh lime, juice with a splash of OJ. This is a serious margarita that’s ever so mildly sweet with just enough kick to be wonderfully refreshing. Wazza Marra You? — Aperol, Prosecco, and a splash of tonic, will turn any day into sunshine. My Aperol spritz friends will not be disappointed. The gaguzz martini is made with Kettle One Botanical, cucumber and mint vodka, premium gin, fresh lime juice, and elder flower liqueur and has a slightly sweet and subtle kick. 

Need a little something sweet after your meal? We can happily steer you toward the Cannoli and the Tartuffo.

Gabagool, like Toto was, is sure to become a local favorite of mine. This is a great spot to bring the family, to bring the girlfriends or to go on a date. The restaurant is very much about the experience as it is the food. The setting will appeal to everyone, young,

It should also be noted that there is a solid gluten-free selection.

Gabagool is open for lunch and dinner as well as for brunch on the weekends and is located at 70 Reef Road, Fairfield. 203-254-2070