ÔToulouse: Beautiful French Cuisine In Branford

What if I told you that there’s a French restaurant in Connecticut that’s exceptional but you likely haven’t heard of it? You won’t find it in Litchfield, Hartford or Fairfield Counties. You will find it in a coastal town in New Haven County. It’s not the Union League Café in New Haven nor is it Bar Bouchée in Madison. The two restaurants have something in common though, and that is Chef Christophe Santos who opened ÔToulouse with his wife Rachelle in Branford last October. 

Chef Christophe grew up in a family where food was the essence of life and many of his fondest memories came from family gatherings surrounded by food and love. By the tender age of 16 he had already started cooking at various local restaurants near his hometown of Villemur sur Tarn which is near Toulouse. Chef  then headed off to work with celebrated Michelin-starred chefs including Jacques Chibois, Alain Ducasse and Johan Leclerre so that he could perfect his culinary skills.

In 2004 Chef had an opportunity to come to the states, and so with his family he did just that. He landed first in New Haven where he worked in the kitchen of the highly esteemed Union League Café before accepting a chef’s position in San Diego. About a decade later he reunited with Jean-Pierre Vuillermet on the East Coast, and was thrilled to accept the position of Chef de Cuisine at the acclaimed Bar Bouchée in Madison where he continued to garner the restaurant top ratings and reviews. 

In 2022, Chef Christopher was able to realize a life-long dream and opened ÔToulouse in Branford with a mission of offering the finest food and the best service possible in keeping true to traditional French cuisine while honoring local seasons.  ÔToulouse is truly a family affair with Rachelle handling all the front-of-the-house affairs. 

ÔToulouse prides itself in using seasonally available ingredients while remaining true to the integrity of French cuisine, and for that reason certain items like the bread and croissants are imported directly from France. The menu changes often to reflect the seasons and to keep the dishes interesting to diners. Local produce comes from Guilford farms and orchards whenever possible. How fortunate were we to have been invited to this wonderful restaurant to see and taste first hand, the talents from the kitchen. 

We started off with a very simple Tomates locales, Manchego, vinaigrette Balsamique. Locally grown tomatoes picked at the height of their flavor so that the natural sweetness is the first thing that hits you when you bite into them, heightened with just a touch of salt, enhanced from the nuttiness of the cheese which and pulled together by the rich flavor sand fruitiness of the balsamic drizzle. You can’t get much more simple than this and yet the flavor profile really has a lovely complexity to it. Chef tells us that this dish is something he had often as a child and is very nostalgic, as is the Salade de Carrottes a l’orange et aux Almondes which jumped out at me as soon as I sat down and saw it on the menu. This carrot salad with orange and almonds is a fresh and flavorful preparation that combines grated carrots with juicy orange segments and crunchy almonds. The earthiness and natural sweetness of the carrots complement the citrusy sweetness while the almonds add a just touch of richness and crunch. The citrusy vinaigrette ties everything together to create a balanced combination of flavors and textures. I loved this salad so much and found it to be so very refreshing.

Those of you who have a penchant for mussels the Moules au Curry is an absolute must. Inside each beautiful glistening black shell are tender bellies that have been cooked in coconut milk, curry, shallots and white wine. And they were heavenly! Although listed as an appetizer, there are plenty for two to share, the serving is large enough to enjoy as a main. I’d be thrilled to enjoy these as my entrée with loads of their bread sopping up the aromatic broth that I couldn’t get enough of – I am not the only one it seems, diners have been known to ask to have the remaining broth bottled up to bring home. 

Let’s talk about the bread for a hot sec. Those of you who’ve been to France, who’ve experienced a real baguette just know the difference. Even the most authentic French bakery in the States can’t quite replicate the texture and consistency and for this reason the baguettes and croissants are imported frozen from France and baked onsite. (The bread is otherworldly! 

From the Brunch menu (available on Sundays) we had their Croque Monsieur, a traditional hot sandwich made with sliced ham, Gruyere, and a creamy Bechamel sauce. The sandwich is grilled until the cheese is warm, melted and bubbly and the bread becomes nice and crispy. Chef’s is augmented by the addition of Dijon to the Bechamel, which adds the perfect touch. The sandwich comes with the Mélange de Salades, Vinaigrette a la Moutarde which is also available on the menu as an appetizer. The dressing made from Dijon, shallots and herbs is simplicity perfected. 

Onto the entrées…

The Souris d’Agneau de 7hr Couscous a l’Oriental was incredibly special. This lamb shank braised for seven hours was exceptionally tender, with meat that pulled away with ease, almost fall-off-the bone, was complemented by the fragrant flavors of the spiced chick peas and couscous, a combination popular in Middle Eastern and North African cuisines. Simply put, this dish was a cut above.

Should you order the Noix de Saint Jacques au maïs, pomme grenaille you’ll not be disappointed. These scallops were pan seared to precision with their buttery golden-brown crust and tender meat were accompanied by naturally sweet in-season braised corn, a red onion confit and miniature potatoes. These scallops are delicate yet the dish is quite hearty.

If anyone does chicken right, it’s the French. The Demi poulet rôti au citron, jus de caisson is not to be overlooked. Days later I was still dreaming about the tender deboned lemony half chicken. Cooked in its natural juices and lemon, this is simplicity taken to another level and nothing short of sublime. Served on a bed of stewed fennel, this was my favorite of the entrees. I thought it was sublime.

If there’s room for more – and really, who doesn’t have room for dessert? – there are a few things that should be on your radar. Their Mousse au Chocolat is decadent and airy, incomparable to any I’ve had this side of the Atlantic.

The Crepe aux Fraises is filled with macerated strawberries, Chantilly and whipped cream. The Flan caramel is light and creamy with flecks of vanilla flake to elevate the flavors. The Peche au sirop façon Melba brings a bit of nostalgia to the table. Local poached peaches, whipped cream, a berry coulis, Chantilly and vanilla gelato is the perfect after meal palate cleanser. You’ll want extra spoons for the table. 

Without hesitation I’ll share that this was some of the best food I have had in a long time. Chef’s mastery of French cuisine is evident in every dish, in every forkful. 

If you’re a gourmand, or just like French cuisine, ÔToulouse absolutely must be on your radar. Call and make your reservation now. You can thank us later!

ÔToulouse
email: otoulouse.brandford@gmail.com

2 East Main Street, Branford CT
203-208-4285
Hours:
Monday closed

Tuesday – Thursday 4:00 pm - 9:00 pm

Friday – Saturday 4:00 pm - 9:30pm
Sundays 11am-4pm