Papa's Pizza: Pie Perfection in Milford

I love discovering places that get very little fanfare, are the heart and soul of the owner(s), and absolutely kill it. Papa’s Pizza in Milford is one of those places and is the epitome of a hole in the wall on the side of the road that deserves recognition for some killer pizza.

 

The original Papa’s Pizza is located closer to Walnut Beach versus downtown Milford (where Papa’s Pizza II is located), and I was getting a little nervous as the soccer ball at the end of the purple line on Waze was quickly approaching, and there was no sign of Papa’s. On my right there was a bakery, a breakfast joint and a parking lot. As I slowed to a crawl and stared into the lot (my apologies again to the people in the car behind me), the far section of the white building had two red words above a small window, “Papa’s Pizza.” Success. I pulled into a parking spot and slowly walked to the window. Was I in the right place…this was literally a hole in the wall on the side of a nondescript white building at the end of a small parking lot. When I peered through the open window, I saw no one on the other side. Fortunately, there was a bell on the counter and immediately after I rang, someone came from the back room to take my order.

 

“Can I have a small pie, half pepperoni, half sausage?” The reply, “Give me fifteen.” Game on.

 

Locals know there are two Papa’s Pizzas in Milford. The original on Naugatuck Avenue (which I visited) opened in 1986, and Papa’s Pizza II, on Bridgeport Ave. opened twenty-two years later in 2008. Papa’s Pizza is overseen by Russ Pietrini, Dylan Bruno, Jamie Cavallo and named after Russ’ grandfather, Peter Lasse (a.k.a. Papa). If the name Lasse sounds familiar, it should. Papa Lasse and his wife Mabel opened The Maples, a restaurant on Naugatuck Avenue, in the 1940s (sold in 1959 and renamed). In addition to the two Papa Pizzas, the third generation oversees Lasse's restaurant, which has been a landmark since 1964.

 

While Papa’s focuses on pizza, there are a few other options. The menu is taped to another closed window and offers pasta options (Naugatuck location only), one garden salad and five “cone” grinders, whatever they are. They specialize in New Haven Pizza, with more than a dozen different toppings, or you can choose from one of twenty-five pre-determined combinations. (Disclaimer – The newest addition is A ‘Pizza Di Jeff, and I had absolutely nothing to do with it, although it sounds pretty good.)

 

As I waited in my car (there are no tables outside other than a waiting bench for 3-4 people), and no nuthin’ on the inside), several regulars pulled into the lot and owner yelled “Hey Johnnie, here’s your order,” followed by a “thank you” and a hand-off, this was definitely a place where people are loyal and return on a regular basis. Almost to the second, my pie was ready in fifteen minutes, nestled in a to-go box and, like the others, handed through the window with a warm “thank you.” With no place to sit, I was left to my own devices to photo and eat...it was not the first time the hood of my car doubled as a dining table.

 

I opened the box, and my lips started to extend into a smile, this pie looked really good. The balance of ingredients looked perfect, the charring along the edge was just the right level and there were bubbles in the dough-edges; it should have a nice, soft feel. Checking the underside, the kitchen cooked it to perfection, just a few light char-spots. I grabbed a bit of sausage and tasted; it was a 10, still moist, fennel-accented with a little spice (I later discovered it was Lamberti's Italian sweet sausage from New Haven). Next, a quick taste of the pepperoni and like the sausage, it was delicious, a medium level of spiciness and just a tad of crispiness. It was still too hot to try a full bite, so I waited…and it was almost excruciating.

 

I finally took a deep breath, and I lifted a slice of the pepperoni side…the crust held, no flop. And then a little bite from the tip to save the roof of my mouth. Wow!!! The flavors were unbelievable. Now a full bite and the cheese stretched, the sauce and the ‘ronis held pat and it was delicious. Everything worked together, the crispy crust, the rich tomatoes, the creaminess of the cheese and the spiciness of the pepperoni. It was close to perfection. My smile grew wider. Could the sausage side compete? The really good news was that it was even better since the sausage was some of the best around. This slice was in Zuppardi’s league as one of the best sausage slices in CT. My smile was in competition with the Cheshire Cat, ear to ear. This is what Connecticut pizza is all about…sheer perfection.

 

Finding that off-the-beaten-path perfection has become an obsession. These unheralded chefs know how to cook, know how to satisfy loyal and new customers and do so for the sheer pleasure of their love of the food adventure. When I find a place like Papa’s Pizza, enjoy some of the best pizza in CT, read about the three generations of food people, I must tell everyone who would never stop if they drove by Papa’s…YOU MUST STOP!!!

 

And that is what CTbites is all about.

 

Papa’s Pizza

258 Naugatuck Ave, Milford

(203) 874-0215

Papa’s Pizza II

2005 Bridgeport Ave, Milford

(203) 283-5433

 

www.papaspizzaonline.com