Filtering by Author: Lou Gorfain

Costco Vs. Stew Leonard's "Samples" Thowdown: Who's The Winner?

Features Specialty Market Homepage

Lou Gorfain August 31, 2018

People love Free. Almost as much as they crave Food. Which explains why CTBites decided to pit Costco in Norwalk against Stew Leonard's in Norwalk, both famous for their generous grocery samples, in a Full-on Free Food Fight.

There was a clear winner. And it wasn’t the store we thought it would be.

While Costco is a membership warehouse, and Stewie’s a sui generes grocery market, both strive to enhance their customers’ in-store shopping experience -- more so than traditional supermarkets.

Top 10 "Grab-able" Burgers In Fairfield & New Haven Counties

Restaurant Burgers Best of CT Comfort Food Lunch Delicious Dives Homepage

Lou Gorfain July 29, 2018

For the past few years, CTBites’ annual Top Ten Burgers has crowned the best premium hamburgers in Southwest Connecticut. Featuring the usual suspects, the rankings didn't vary much each summer. (In fact, our 2018 roundup would have welcomed only one new candidate, the robust Tavern Burger just introduced at GreyBarns.) By focusing on those elite burgers, had our list become elitist?

This year we decided to widen the lens to include both Fairfield and New Haven Counties and shift the focus to the casual, every-day burgers that we usually crave: a really succulent beef patty adorned with our favorite fixings at a reasonable price. Convenience ups the appeal.

Ironically, two candidates from last year’s gilded list qualified by value and ambience as casual, neighborhood hamburgers. Four of the entries are indigenous to the state, including one that is steamed not fired. Surprisingly, half of the patties are not even served in conventional, soft buns.

We paid close attention to bread/beef ratios. A limp bun immediately disqualified any contender.

Most prices hover around 10 dollars, one as cheap as 5.25, but none more costly than 15.

Herewith, the best of our local, “grab-able” burgers.

Chef Geoff Lazlo: At The James Beard House & Beyond

Features Chef Chef Talk

Lou Gorfain July 25, 2018

After 18 years of 80 hour weeks in the kitchen, Chef Geoff Lazlo needed a break. It’s what kids call “a gap year,” a sabbatical before taking on the next challenge in their lives. For Lazlo that time off would offer a chance to relax with his family, reassess his options, and realize his dreams.

Let’s start there, with the first of his fantasies.

Though he had worked with the likes of Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, Michael Anthony at Gramercy Tavern, Dan Barber at Stone Barns, and Bill Taibe at The Whelk, as well as running his own award-winning restaurant, the acclaimed Mill Street Bar and Table in Greenwich, Lazlo had always dreamed of cooking an elaborate feast at the James Beard House in New York City.

Kyushu Ramen: Authentic Noodle Shop in Stamford...Finally!!

Restaurant Asian Japanese Ramen Noodles Stamford Lunch Homepage

Lou Gorfain June 17, 2018

Those who have roamed Stamford for years in search of authentic ramen finally have a new spring to their step. Kyushu Ramen, the sleek re-incarnation of Tengda Asian Bistro on Bedford’s Restaurant Row, lays claim to being Stamford’s first ramen restaurant.

In place of the mish-mash Pan Asian cuisine previously served at this location, the new shop focuses primarily on Japan, sharpening the lens on the island of Kyushu and its most illustrious contribution to ramen cuisine, Tonkatsu.

Distinguished by its cloudy, slowly simmered pork stock, Tonkatsu is the silky star of Kyushu’s menu. Its savory, seasoned broth, anointed with pork belly, spices, herbs and noodles, is crafted by Japanese-born chef, Ito Shigeru. Trained by strict ramen masters, this veteran New York City ramen chef brings an authentic Japanese cooking style to Bedford Street.

Bull Pan BBQ Brings Authentic Korean Fare to Stamford

Restaurant Korean Asian Stamford Lunch Homepage

Lou Gorfain May 27, 2018

With his sleek and spacious Bull Pan emporium now open on lower Summer Street in Stamford, Paul Ma plans to introduce the region to a fun, mouth-watering secret: Korean BBQ.

Of all Asian cuisines, Korean may be the most flavor forward, zestier than Japanese and considerably more authentic than the Chinese-American imposters that clutter our culinary landscape. Although its savory flavors appeal to a Western palate, this iteration of Asian food is the least known in America. Outside of the K-Towns in New York and California, Korean restaurants have not been easy to find in the hinterlands.

Millwright’s: Chef Tyler Anderson Creates Inspired New England Cuisine in Simsbury

Restaurant Simsbury American Local Artisan Local Farm Special Occasion Celebrity Chef Outdoor Dining Homepage Catering

Lou Gorfain December 02, 2017

Four years. That’s the time Tyler Anderson devoted to perfecting his signature dish, Tapioca Custard. A lush confection of clams, bacon, onion, potato and fennel, the delicacy perfectly defines the wizardry of this celebrated chef … a magical spin on homespun.

The small portion is intentionally introductory, a riff on a classic New England starter. As if by sorcery, the custard conjures “all the flavors of clam chowder.”

Anderson conceived the dish as a tribute to the meal – and the moment -- that super-charged his culinary life. “I went to the French Laundry in 1997 when Tomas Keller was in the kitchen,” he recalls. “Up to then I had been cooking mainly to meet women and go drinking with my buddies.”

He began the feast with Keller’s classic, Oysters and Pearls, a sabayon of pearl tapioca with beau soleil oysters and white sturgeon caviar.

“I took the first bite,” he remembers. “And at that exact second understood that cooking could be more than just cooking.” He pauses and grins. “It made me smile. I was happy. I now had a passion to make people happy.”

The Tavern at GrayBarns Opens in Norwalk- Silvermine Tavern Magically Reimagined

Restaurant New Canaan Norwalk American Lunch Farm to Table Gastropub Breakfast Brunch Homepage

Lou Gorfain October 21, 2017

“It’s a 21st Century iteration of a 19th Century Inn,” Robert promised. So, before the six of us scattered to warmer climes for the winter, we chose the newly opened Tavern at GrayBarns for our farewell dinner.

After a pre-prandial toast, our party was served an un-presupposing bread and butter plate. Standard fare? Hardly. Executive Chef Ben Freemole had us at first bite.

That homespun bread perfectly captures the ethos of Andy Glazer’s sweeping reconstruction and fortification of the legendary Silvermine Tavern and Inn, its footprint reduced by almost a third. In this new “Haven of Refuge,” both décor and dining dazzle, no detail taken for granted, not even a humble bread and butter starter.

Kala Bistro Opens in North Haven From Olea Chef, Manuel Romero

Restaurant Hamden North Haven New Haven Openings Lunch Spanish Latin American Asian

Lou Gorfain October 15, 2017

Though open for just two weeks, Kala Bistro has already attracted a small throng of regulars. The night we dined, the staff recognized more than half the patrons, greeting them warmly, like old friends.

Our server, Rose Ledee, pointed out a couple at a table on the patio. “This is the third time they’ve come in the past week!” she gushed, proudly.

In contrast to the formal, fine dining of Olea, Manuel Romero’s acclaimed Spanish hot spot in downtown New Haven, his new restaurant is suburban, relaxed, and very much a part of a bustling neighborhood that borders North Haven and Hamden. Lower-keyed (and lower-priced), the bistro menu is far more global and just as scrumptious.

Consider the Bao Pork Belly, the epitome of Chinese dim sum. The sweet, soft bun pillows a slice of savory, chewy pork belly, their contrasting textures framed by a crunchy cucumber disk, tart pickled carrots, briny hoisin, and mustard seeds. Despite the complexity of flavors, Chef Romero has created a sandwich that tastes surprisingly simple and subtle.

Present Company: Chef Jeffrey Lizotte Masters The Art Of The Unexpected

Restaurant Farm to Table Simsbury Celebrity Chef American Homepage

Lou Gorfain September 09, 2017

Simsbury, a bucolic community nestled in the Farmington Valley about 25 minutes north of bustling Hartford, has rarely been considered a culinary hotspot. But unexpectedly, this former mill town is now home to what many critics deem the best new restaurant in Connecticut: Present Company, a small, rustic eatery located in what was once a horse stable astride the Farmington River.

Here the unexpected comes as no surprise. Consider the auspices of its co-owner, Jeffrey Lizotte, the acclaimed former chef at Hartford’s lux On20. His resume includes stints at Eric Ripert’s Le Bernadin and David Bouley’s Danube in New York, and two of France’s highly regarded restaurants, La Rupina in Bordeaux and the Michelin-starred La Bastide St. Antoine in Grasse. After all those glittering dining rooms, what is an award winning chef doing at a relaxed 49 seat venue in what some might call “The Sticks”?

Le Fat Poodle – Chic Dining in Old Greenwich … With a Wink

Restaurant Greenwich French Mediterranean Lunch Homepage

Lou Gorfain August 13, 2017

Unlike its Franco-centric siblings – the Le Penguins in Greenwich and Westport-- Le Fat Poodle is a Parisian Bistro in name only. Indeed, its faux French appellation comes with a big wink, setting the mood for the whimsy inside what was once a stately U.S. Post Office.

The soaring ceilings, whirling fans, and leafy palms suggest sexy Saigon rather than teeming Paris. That’s Pink Martini on the playlist, not Piaf. And the menu? Global far more than Gallic.

East meets West via seductive Vietnamese egg rolls. Or there’s Swiss fondue to spark a party without borders. Sample Spanish Ceviche or blistered Japanese Shushito Peppers. Bite into creamy Tuscan Ravioli, plump with wild mushrooms.

“This is a Global Bistro, not a French Bistro,” insists veteran restaurateur Anshu Vidyarthi.

The Porchetta Burger: Bareburger Debuts Its James Beard Winner

Restaurant Comfort Food Stamford Ridgefield Lunch Homepage Burgers

Lou Gorfain July 25, 2017

Now, as an adult, card-carrying carnivore, I’m still leery of burger extenders, be they crumbs, flour, veggies or any other manner of filler. So when asked to review Bareburger’s Porchetta Burger, half ground pork and half wild mushrooms, I approached the assignment with some hesitation. Fifty percent filler? No beef? No red-pink medium rare interior when I cut into the patty? No juices oozing at first bite? Likely no deal.

At the Harbor Point location, I asked the kitchen to cut the Porchetta sandwich in half, so I could check the interior before biting in. To my surprise, the patty looked remarkably like a medium rare beef-burger. Traditionally the pork is wrapped about other savories, but in this version, the pork (wild boar sourced from Fossil Farms in Boonton, New Jersey) is ground in-house, then mixed with chopped wild mushrooms and seasonings (fennel, garlic, and rosemary).

Top Ten Burgers In Southwest CT: 2017 Edition

Restaurant Best of CT Comfort Food Stamford Greenwich Westport Norwalk SONO Homepage Burgers

Lou Gorfain June 11, 2017

2017 was a good year for burger lovers in Southwest CT. A closing (Fleisher's Craft Kitchen) and a fire (The National) have sadly removed two of 2016’s winning burgers from contention in our 2017 edition of Top Ten Burgers in Southwest CT. Nonetheless, the local burger scene remains vibrant, inventive, and ever evolving. So we happily welcome three new, mouthwatering iterations to our 2017 Top Ten Burgers list.

We sampled over 75 burgers to arrive at this list. Our rankings this year are focused exclusively on the sandwich and its ingredients alone, not the accompanying sides.

Herewith, the Winners….

El Segundo Opening in Downtown Sono: The Spread Team + Global Street Food

Restaurant Norwalk SONO Tacos Kid Friendly

Lou Gorfain July 21, 2016

The Spread was the first: hip, smart, happening. Contemporary Sono.

El Segundo, by definition, will be The Second. This time: Street. Urban. Old World Global.

“We’ll have street food from each of the 7 Continents,” said Chris Hickey as he recently gave CTBites a preview of The Spread team’s new joint set to open in early August. Hickey and co-owners Andrey Cortes, Chris Rasile, Shawn Longyear and Executive Chef Carlos Baez envision an international playground for the palate.

“We’re going to have some fun,” Chris promised, grinning.

Open the corrugated metal garage door, and the vista is a courtyard boasting a fountain, storefronts, and looming apartments. A piazza in Naples? A market in Buenos Aries. A food fair in Bangkok.

Inside the restaurant, you’re on a side street. The vibe is almost Third World. The predominant motif is that corrugated sheeting – the humble material that shelters much of the earth’s population. A wall is painted in the brilliant graffiti of Duster, New York’s notorious tagger. On the wall, a subway door and a Number 6 Train to Duster’s Bronx. Its boogie. Its street food.

Fairway Market's Fabulous Potato Latkes Recipe

Features Entertaining Holiday Recipe

Lou Gorfain November 22, 2013

You don't have to be Jewish to love latkes. And it doesn't have to be Hanukkah to set aside your fear of frying and indulge in a steaming stack of crisp and creamy sautéed potato patties slathered in sour cream, applesauce (or even served a la mode). Indeed, the cold weather holidays offer the ideal excuse to serve warm, welcoming, and festive Latkes.

Fairway Market has brought us a recipe for latkes that is perfect for holiday cooking, secular or sacred, starting with Thanksgiving. Not only are these yummy pancakes a seasonal treat, but they work wonderfully as a do-ahead. After frying, keep the latkes warm in a low oven for up to two hours. You can also make a day ahead, refrigerate and then re-heat on a cookie sheet for five minutes in a medium oven.

Why are these latkes different than all others? Rebecca Martin of Fairway, who created the recipe, says there is no secret, but the following steps make the prep virtually foolproof.

Morello Italian Bistro: Toning it Down in Tony Greenwich Town

Restaurant American Greenwich Italian Wine Dinners

Lou Gorfain October 21, 2012

With high-end restaurants like Thomas Henkelmann, Rebecca’s, Jean Louis, L’escale, and Polpo, the Greenwich food scene is hallmarked by special occasion dining. Though lush and lux, the cuisines are rough on wallets and waistlines.

At first blush, Morello’s on Greenwich Avenue seems to be part of that plush world. The setting, a landmark Beaux Arts bank building woven with spectacular arches and ceilings tiled in golden amber by the Catalan architect Rafel Guastavino, Jr, may be the most lavish, sexiest dining space in all of Connecticut. Moreover, the bistro is part of the exclusive restaurant portfolio belonging to international jet setter and billionaire Marlon Abela, a collection that includes Michelin star eateries in London, as well as a Voce in Manhattan and Bistro du Midi in Boston.

The Best Movie Popcorn in Fairfield County

Ingredients Restaurant Comfort Food Best of CT Kid Friendly

Lou Gorfain April 19, 2011

YOU’LL LAUGH. YOU’LL CRY. YOU’LL MUNCH.

Forget the sliders at Butterfield 8 or the pepperoni pizza at Remo’s. The tastiest treat along Stamford’s Bedford Avenue could be the popcorn served at the Avon Theater. Like its magnificent art-deco neon marquee, Avon’s popcorn is iconic. Always fresh, these tiny cumulus clouds lightly coated in pure butter, melt in your mouth and stir remembrances of times past: double features, dark balconies and stolen kisses.

Popcorn may be the main profit maker at every movie house in Fairfield County, but there’s a lot of disparity, especially between chains and independents.

The popcorns served by three independents get my nominations for Best Performance by a Popcorn.