I still remember a time when Connecticut was a barbecue desert. Brisket could seem like an exotic item, and getting quality smoked meats usually meant a trip to New York City or further out of state. Those dark ages have, thankfully, long since passed. Today Connecticut is home to many good and several great barbecue destinations that are drawing people from out of state. In the story below, I highlight my five favorites, two of which were also featured in Texas Monthly in a feature about the best Texas barbecue outside of Texas. But before we dig into these picks, I have two caveats. First, though I love what is happening at several barbecue popups — I’m looking at you Broken Symmetry, Rise Doughnuts and Mason Sreet BBQ — this story is focused on establishments with more regular hours. Second, though I’ve tried many barbecue places in the state, I’m always on the lookout for new destinations. So if your favorite spot isn’t here and I’ve never been or you think it’s worthy of a revisit because something improved recently, I’m all ears. Now grab some napkins because we’re getting hands-on with barbecue.
Somewhere between the main course and dessert round during a recent tasting at Ore Hill the palette cleansers arrive in the form of a sorbet. The secret ingredient in the dish is habanada peppers a selectively bred variant of the better-known habanero peppers that Executive Chef Ryan Carbone explains retain the flavors of a habanero without the spice. So you get all these green vegetal notes and it feels like it’s about to get spicy but the heat never comes, Carbone says.
The sensation, which Carbone describes perfectly, is one of a kind and exactly the kind of flavor that makes dining at Ore Hill such a treat. The ultra-select, ultra-high-end fine dining experience offers a multicourse immersion in local ingredients and chef-driven cuisine and the kind of big-city tasting menu rarely found in Connecticut. This is accompanied by high-end cocktails and a natural wine-driven wine list that doesn’t shy away from bringing some intriguing and intentional funk.
Bite into a sourdough loaf from Atticus and you’ll taste the difference immediately.
It's heartier and nuttier with an addictive chew and bolder character than most other breads, even from other artisan sourdough bakeries. The bakery’s pastries also have a wonderful and unique flavor.
The bakery’s not-so-secret ingredient is simple: whole grains.
The new market is Atticus’ second location. It joins the Atticus Bookstore Cafe in downtown New Haven, which has been a bookstore since 1976 and a cafe since 1981. The location has been dabbling in artisan bread and pastries since 2016.
The Connecticut chef began his culinary career as a cook while in the Navy. Afterwards he spent years working in kitchens at Connecticut restaurants including the Hard Rock Cafe at Foxwoods and New Haven spots such as Caseus, Olmo and High George. But he always knew he wanted to venture out on his own in some capacity.
“The industry is tough,” says his husband, Seth Wallace. “Not a lot of folks see a great future for themselves cooking on the line. And so we had talked for a long time about, ‘What are you going to do? And do you want to open something? And if so, what?”
Eventually, McGuire realized the answer could be found in his Filipino heritage and its culinary traditions, which he had never delved into professionally.
“It was one of those moments where I was like, ‘Oh, it's been with me this whole time,’” McGuire says. “I started to dig into my own culture and actually get more acquainted with just a lot of the things that I wasn't aware of when I was growing up as a child.” He adds, “It's been a really cool way to build relationships with other branches of my family.”
