When CTbites last left Amis Trattoria in October of 2020, the Italian-inspired restaurant adopted a fresher, more fun approach. It’s still fresh and fun, only with an idea that executive chef Jes Bengston wanted to implement just under a year ago. The thought for Amis then was small, shared plates and heaps of handmade pasta meant to be passed around amongst your dining companions. Well, it’s here.

“Everything is meant to be a taste or a bite,” Bengston says. “It should feel like you’re having dinner at your grandmother’s house. It’s how I eat, even when I went to Don Memo solo, I was kind of confused on what to order, but I still got a bunch of stuff so I could have a bite.”

Like Bengston, I’m on the sharing bandwagon. Heck, you probably are, too. It’s why Amis’ antipasti refresh is a dozen dishes deep. You and your family or friends, or a mixture of the two, can pick at a shallow dish of citrusy, herby olives with a little heat from pickled fresno chilis or you can fight over who gets the last couple of pecorino and black pepper dusted cacio e pepe fries.

Amis’ O.G. roots are sticking around, though. Crispy Brussels sprouts and those fat, tender, saucy old school meatballs are still favorites that aren’t going anywhere. Just expect less heavy fare to balance it out like spicy crab bruschetta with a burst of brightness from lemon aioli and some Calabrian chili heat. It’s a nice bite and no one would blame you for not sharing this particular plate.