CLASSIFIED: The Remarkable Life of Chef Karen Hubrich, Owner, Gruel Britania

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Lloyd Allen June 14, 2022

Beef Bourguignon. She was not supposed to be able to do that. Prepare it. Cook it. Cook anything, much less make lunch for a few aristocratic types, members of Parliament, the diplomatic corps. The Royal Family.

London, England. 1976. The British Press Association. High noon. The chef had just resigned. More to the point, retired. “My daughter can jolly well do it,” her father exclaimed. The report is that Karen countered with a startled, “Me?”

Though brought up ever so polite and proper, Karen showed little to no interest in finer British manners, and well, “off you go!” Perhaps the nuns could shape the morals of this wild young thing, set her right, mold her— or so her parents hoped, but that’s a another story. Unclassified, but still a story.

But executive chef for royalty? She had no culinary training, no experience in a kitchen, although she has admitted her parents were, “quite the cooks,” but right there and then, she decides to, for lack of better words, just “wing it!”

Gruel Britannia Opens in Southport: The British Are Here!

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Andrew Dominick June 30, 2019

Karen Hubrich will openly state that she’s not a classically trained chef. Despite that, she has certainly lived the life of a bonafide foodie.

She grew up in London, in a household where her parents were avid cooks that often threw dinner parties and they believed in eating “good food.” Her love of cuisine only grew after time spent in Italy, but she credits a restaurant owner on the Greek island of Corfu with her first true kitchen lesson in which they made moussaka.

There’s a lot more to Hubrich’s culinary origin story by our friend Dan Woog, but her past eventually led to chef gigs at the MetroTech Center in Brooklyn and Williams Club in Midtown. After that she was hired as Michael Bolton’s personal chef and had stints at the Fairfield County Hunt Club, as the executive chef for the New York Times dining room, and back to Connecticut to work at the Pequot Yacht Club. To boot, she even ran a private catering business through most of her chef life.

These days, you’ll find Hubrich doing her own thing in Southport. Chances are you’ve driven past Gruel Britannia on the Post Road and likely eased off the gas pedal as you wondered, “What is this?”

At Gruel Britannia, Hubrich is going back to her London roots by cooking British food, a cuisine she once described as “diabolical.” Hubrich’s food is more refined. It’s brighter than the bland browns and beiges we picture when we think of old-world English grub.