Thin crust. Roman style. Pan pizza. Bar pies. Artisan. Grilled. Foldable New York slices.

Norwalk has all of that. And you can insert your own quip about there being “too much Italian” if you want.

What Norwalk has been missing in its dining history is a true wood-fired Neapolitan pizzeria.

Check that. “Had been missing.”

Newly opened on N Main Street is SoNo Wood Fired, where owner and pizzaiolo Besnar Kaba ferments, forms, stretches, and tops each pie, then slides each one using a long peel into his 800° Forza Forni Pavesi.

Kaba is meticulous about it, though. He will only cook three or so doughs at a time, turning them feverishly for 90 seconds to two minutes, to achieve that perfect leopard spotted char that’s indicative of a proper Neapolitan pie.