Filipindian Pop Up with Sherkaan + Kawit! + More to Come in New Haven

Kristin L. Wolfe October 23, 2019

Photos (left to right): Meghan Olson, Alejandro Vilacorta

As I face the tiger imagery walking into Sherkaan, I hear Anthony Bourdain’s voice in my head immediately. (RIP TONY. I miss you, goddamnit).

He was the one who opened my world to Southeast Asian cuisine wider than they had ever been before. And of course, any time he covered the region, and we watched his lanky frame stroll amongst the tiny seats at outdoor stalls surrounding late night crowds and makeshift kitchens, we were downright intoxicated. We were there with him.

At Sherkaan’s first pop-up last Thursday night, the Flipindian Feast, I had to swim through the the hungry crowd and make my way to, literally, the last seat available at the long copper bar. From the pervading tiger logo (Sherkaan means Tiger King in Hindi) and hindi phrases on the walls, to the cascade of bicycles hanging from the ceiling, diners are definitely transported to the packed spaces of a Southeast Asian hot spot. In addition to all the things to look at, pungent spices filled the room; they were so entrenched in the air that my hair smelled of them the next morning. And you know what, I friggin loved it. My students may not have been so appreciative the next day that I waited to wash my hair, but hey, I wasn’t ready to let go of a great dining experience just yet.

Sherkaan opened six months ago and continues to delight the discerning palates of New Haven eaters. I spoke to one fellow at the bar who lived right down the street and said he’d already been about ten times. Sherkaan joined forces for the feast with the tremendously popular, melt-in-your-mouth delicious Kawit! who is celebrating their first anniversary this week. Long story short, both spots are hot and kicking ass. Totally Bindass, as a matter of fact (see glossary below).

The feast was just that with main eats, desserts, and cocktails on the event menu but treats from the regular menu available as well. I got a wonderful combo from both and could not have been more pleased. With a coconut mocktail in hand, called the Huy Pare! Colada, and a wish that I wore stretchy pants, I was ready to partake. I dove right into a Pork Kachori; tender adobe smoked pork, the tang of tamarind sauce, and cured green beans that still had a little snap. If that was any indication of the party my mouth was about to have, I was one happy lass. I moved into the Eggplant Palak, since Palak (pureed spinach) anything is often my favorite, and whoa, was that spicy! The seared eggplant against the soft creamy spinach may have looked tame and unassuming, but it was bold and forward with flavor.

As this was both an Indian and Filipino inspired event, I tried to balance my choices. And, you can’t go to any type of filipino event without trying the lumpia, those crispy bites of magic. TBT: My very first boyfriend was part Filipino part Puerto Rican (imagine those holiday treats!) so from very early on, my love for lumpia was struck. (Damn, why did my dad make me break up with him? My 13 year old self is still bitter). So, with my lumpia love in tow and another diner at the bar from the Philippines, we did a little jig and gave these crunchy lamb and veggie cigars, a thumbs up. I pushed my way over to the couple who had just ordered the lamb tamale, served in a huge banana leaf with kaldereta (traditionally a goat stew), and okra fries. Perhaps pretty-fied for today’s foodies in presentation, within one bite, you may have well been at grandma's house where this had been on the stove all day.

Since the fella who lives down the street had been so many times, I followed his recommendation from the main menu and tried two more yummies: the Squash Dosa under Street Eats and the Keema Tots under the Chaats section. Well, don’t make me choose right now. just don’t. The Tots were a cool, unexpected treat, and tot-ally delicious (yes, I had to say that, sorry). The outside was as crisp as you want a crispy potato to be, but the inside oozed with steamy tender lamb. Then, dunk it in the mint Raita, and you having a hot/cold and crispy/soft winning combo. But, the kid in you will spin with delight since the Dosa comes out like a flying airplane; you will not believe how huge it is. Dosa is like a crepe and this one was easily the size of a large pizza box and folded into a pizza slice triangle. What’s on the inside really was a journey of tremendous flavor. I was already so full, but I continued to take bites until I just couldn’t any more. The squash was generous in large soft chunks, playing kissing cousins with the aloo potatoes, amul cheese and beetroot raita. The dosa is what I woke up missing the most; it was so full of flavor and presented with pizzazz. It would surely be my regular choice. My new friend was dead on with that suggestion.

To add to the event and celebratory experience writer/photographer Sarika Cho of @sheisnotsari and @goddess.training was on hand to adorn henna designs to feast participants.

Chef Bryan Burke, with owners Ankit Harpaldes and Sona Ramchandani at Sherkaan, and Chef Kevin McGuire, with partner Seth Wallace of Kawit!, are igniting the flavor scene in New Haven. EVERYONE needs to head on down, embrace the crowds, roll around in the spices and give them a try.

In fact, why don’t you grab your spot at Sherkaan’s upcoming Diwali Brunch, Celebrating the Festival of Lights, on Sunday October 27, 11-3pm. There will be diyas (lamps), marigolds, and brunch specials, and take-home boxes full of mathias (crispy, spicy snacks).

Glossary of terms

DOSA: it’s kinda like a crèpe
ALOO: spiced potatoes
PURI: fried flour shell
SEV: a fine and crispy chickpea noodle
CHAATS: chaats are a savory snack or appetizer
PICKLES: not like western vinegar based pickles. these are fruits and veggies preserved in mustard oil & salt
PARATHA: unleavened flatbread, layered with ghee, griddled, flakey
PANEER: aka indian farmers cheese, this is a fresh cheese with a firm and spongy body, made from cow milk
MASALA: indian spice blends made for various dishes, ex: garam, tikka, chaat
RAITAS: popular yogurt based sauce
CHUTNEYS: kinda like a dip
TOTALLY BINDAAS: hindi slang for chill, the coolest
JHAKAAS: hindi slang for awesome
YAAR: it means dude