Bruxelles Brasserie’s European Flavors Infuse the South Norwalk Restaurant Scene

Bruxelles Brasserie recently opened its doors on Main Street in the space formerly occupied by Barcelona Wine Bar. The setting is hip - a SoHo vibe in SoNo – the flavors are somewhat more traditional. Chef Roland Olah describes his cuisine as simple, though I beg to differ. While there is a familiarity with every dish, nearly everything we tried also had an element of surprise. At Bruxelles Brasseries, you might find that the expected meets the unexpected. 

Chef Olah came to the States from Hungary on a Green Card after having won one in a lottery. Knowing he could always return, he and his wife along with their young daughter decided to take a chance and toss fate to the wind. He left his position as Executive Chef at the renown Café Erté and began anew in New York City under the tutelage of Chef Daniel Bolud before moving to Connecticut where he served as Executive Chef at Martel in Fairfield. Last summer he took another bold step, leaving the helm once again to partner up with The Birdman Restaurant Group to open his restaurant in the heart of Norwalk. Bruxelles Brasserie offers traditional European cuisine, focusing on the flavors of France and Brussels. It had been opened just two days when we went to check it out. 

What should we try? We deferred to Chef. 

We ate copious amounts of food. Dish after dish arrived, beautifully plated, wonderfully aromatic. Traditionally I share my favorites, but as I sat down to write this I struggled with which dishes to mention and which to omit. Forgive, as I found this impossible, and will briefly mention them all – You simply cannot go wrong with any of the dishes mentioned.

First to arrive was the Roasted Multi-Color Cauliflower. Tender with a slight snap, the veg was perfectly cooked on a bed of arugula, pine nuts and a wonderfully aromatic cumin-cilantro yogurt dressing that was as refreshing as it was comforting. I’d like to have seen a few more pine nuts for texture. Vegan and Gluten Free, this dish is hearty enough for a light meal.

A Bibb Lettuce Salad with crispy lardon, paper thin radish and crumbled blue cheese in a fine herb yogurt dressing is a much more delicate version of the blue cheese salads we’ve come to know. The familiar flavors of the blue and the unexpected combination of the tangy dressing work well. The crispy bits of lardon add just the right amount of crunch. 

The Tuna Tartare perfectly exemplifies the familiar and the unfamiliar. Fresh, delicate tuna meets a delightful cucumber raita – a creamy yogurt-like sauce – infused with argon oil and espelette, a pepper with a gentle heat, and marinated chick peas. Far from simple, it takes a creative and well versed chef to imagine a dish as this.  

The Belgian Croquettes were another example of the familiar and the unexpected. Here two types of ham meet three variety of cheeses with a delightful je ne sais quoi, which turned out to be a dash of nutmeg offering a mildly nutty almost sweet contrast to the decadent, salty bites.

The Sautéed Spicy Shrimp brings to mind the ever popular shrimp and grits, but add some creamy mascarpone to the polenta, some hot calabrese pepper and you have an elevated creamier, richer version that left a bit of heat of heat on the tongue.

Iconic French comfort food? Beef Bourgignon, but of course! Chef’s doesn’t disappoint. With meat that falls off the bone and practically melts in your mouth, it doesn’t get more tender than this. The deep rich flavors of the jus radiate from butter, herbs and the beef itself. A generous helping of celeriac potato mousseline completes the dish – perfect for a cold winter day.

Looking for something decadent yet simple? As comforting as the aforementioned without the red meat? The Roasted Chicken breast is a must. The French know how to make a good chicken. The presentation and plating makes this a visual delight, but it’s as beautiful to the palate as it is to the eyes. If you’re looking for something light, this dish isn’t for you. If you’re looking for a simple dish that’s rich and complex in flavor this is it. Served with crispy lardons, baby carrots with tips left on, miniature potatoes and edamame, the chicken is tender, moist and flavorful on its own, but must be dredged into the jus, for the just is the jewel. 

The Seared Salmon, with its crispy exterior reveals a flaky pink meat below. Served on a bed of sunchoke puree, with braised artichoke, fennel and arugula, with fried capers that offer a salty briny explosion, the unexpected flavor of lemon offers an original and unexpected twist. 

The chicken had me at hello, and then I met a gorgeous Roasted Rack of Lamb. I’ll be honest here, I don’t always love lamb, but it was love at first bite. The distinctive lamb flavor was there without the often overpower gaminess so that the delicate aromas of the gorgeous spring green risotto were able to hold their own. 

Just when we thought we couldn’t possibly eat another morsel we were presented with dessert, not one but three! It’s a good thing that there’s always room for dessert! 

First to arrive a decadent and traditional Viennese chocolate cake layered with apricot, a hint of raspberry under a thin layer of ganache. Sacher Torte is chocolate perfection without being overly sweet. The Valrhona Dark and White Chocolate Mousse with fresh raspberries is a decadent treat – best mousse this side of the Seine? Perhaps. The Apple and Pear with crispy tuiles and lavender sauce is a wonderful choice for those who prefer not to travel the chocolate route. Life is short, order the dessert - with an extra fork or two…

With the comfort and familiarity of an intimate bistro, (more Bistro than Brasserie) Bruxelles Brasserie will quickly become the darling of the neighborhood. A generously sized bar and Happy Hour Menu will welcome the aprés work crowd, as the dining room begins to fill for the dinner crowd. The restaurant is presently closed for lunch, but is now open for Brunch on Sundays.

For the complete menu and more information on reservations and events please visit their website: https://www.bruxellessono.com/

Bruxelles Brasserie 63-71 N Main Street, South Norwalk, CT 06854 Tel: 203-857-1494