Carlson’s Landing: Elegant Dining on the Connecticut River

Last week we took a beautiful scenic drive to Essex Connecticut to check out Carlson’s Landing. With stunning views of the Connecticut River, and located next to a bustling shipyard, the restaurant offers a perfect mix of stunning views, safely distanced seating, an elegant interior and delicious food and drink. 

The restaurant is spearheaded by seasoned restaurateur Robert Rabine, founder of Cafe Routier in Westbrook, who’s also a former food and beverage writer with over 300 published recipes and reviews. Executive Chef JP Dillon (formerly of Trumbull Kitchen in Hartford, Birch Hill Tavern and The Beamhouse in Glastonbury, and Hidden Still Restaurant & Moonshine Bar in Ellington) recently joined forces with Rabine. 

Chef Dillon incorporates his New England culinary roots and creative freedom into the menu offerings at Carlson’s Landing and hopes the new menu evokes memories of past travels and dining experiences while creating new memories from Carlson’s Landing. A new fall menu was just released and we were lucky enough to sample some of the new dishes. 

For starters there’s The Eggplant which is an interesting concept. Deep fried and served on an Acuka (pronounced ASSUKA) sauce, these crispy, deep fried eggplant bites are served with the Middle Eastern inspired pesto-like sauce. Made from red pepper and walnuts, the acuka is smooth and creamy with a hint of heat. The dish is as delicious as it is beautiful.

I am very particular about Scallops. These were melt in your mouth delicious, and nothing short of divine. Served over a carrot puree, and made from a sauce comprised of burnt apple juice and maple, the flavors are smooth, slightly sweet and intense. The accompanying fennel foam offers a lovely juxtaposing flavor.  

Chicory & Date Salad. I admit to having been a bit skeptical about this dish. The dressing stole the show here. A blend of dates and Dijon, the flavor palate was the perfect combination of sweet and bold Dijon heat. The kumquats, for me, were bitter and a bit overpowering. I might have preferred them thinly sliced and candied, or leave them off complete. I would, however and without hesitation, order this again, sans kumquats.

Moving on to the main dishes we enjoyed the Prosciutto Chicken. I hate to pick favorites but this may have been mine. Roulettes of prosciutto-wrapped chicken with crispy skin are filled with melted leaks and a burnt onion puree, served on a potato puree with pearl onions. The flavors are marvelous and the textures are wonderful. The crispy exterior yields to a wonderfully creamy filling. The burnt onion offers a hint of sweetness offering a lovely balance to the savory. 

If duck is your jam the Duck with Smoked Cherry sauce should be a strong consideration. Succulent and tender, the duck is perfectly seared and served with parsnips, pearl onion, radish, and a creamy cherry sauce.

The Fried Chicken leg served over potatoes croquette narrowly misses the mark. While we loved the chicken – perfectly cooked with a lovely crisp skin and flavorful, tender meat - the croquette, while good was no match for the chicken. Visually the dish could have used some of the color that we saw in our previous dishes. 

Quintessential gastropub fare, the Pork Belly Sliders were tasty and fun. Served with avocado and tomato, these three nicely sized sliders were tender and juicy. The accompanying jalapeno jam raises the bar here.

We also had the NY Strip, a generously sized dish, served with crispy potatoes, mushrooms Duxelles and a kale and radish salad. We enjoyed this dish but wish we had ours medium rare. If you prefer your protein pink, you may want to specify so.

Last, and definitely not least, we ended our gastro journey with dessert. The Banana split is a fun interpretation of the ice cream treat for which it is named. This one features an olive oil cake, toasted banana ice cream, chocolate powder, dehydrated strawberries, and pineapple mousse.

But it is the Pumpkin crème Brule who commands the starring role. The name should be on a marquis. Creamy and rich, the crème is enhanced with ginger and nutmeg, topped with a cayenne whipped cream. I loved this dessert with its rich sweetness and the touch of heat from the ginger and cayenne that lingered on my tongue.

The beverage program compliments the restaurant’s menu – combining the old with the new. Classic martinis, premium spirits, seasonal cocktails, craft beer, and an all-American curated wine list can be enjoyed throughout the day, after a day on the boat, and late night with friends.  

With travel on hold for so many of us this year, why not take the opportunity to discover all the wonderful things our state has to offer. The town of Essex is charming and simply gorgeous this time of year. I strongly encourage you to hop into your cars and enjoy a lovely lunch and outing. 

Carlson’s Landing

Open for lunch and dinner 6 days a week.
The restaurant is closed on Tuesdays.

63 Main Street, Essex, CT 06426

(860) 767-2727

www.carlsonslanding.com