CIBUS Opens 2nd Latin Fusion Spot In Stratford--CIBUS Dos

I walked into the new Cibus Dos and, before I could even sit down, another patron was passionately, earnestly imploring me to get the soup. "My god, man" he said, fanning his mouth. "Incredible." Having been to the original location in another part of Stratford, I understood his enthusiasm. It's the kind of place which inspires strangers to demand you order what they are having, like "You have to try this, it's important." Stratford runs vertically on the map from the hilly northern reaches to gradually smooth out southerly to the open expanses of Lordship before disappearing into Long Island Sound. The first Cibus was an experiment placed on a corner in town towards the south end where nothing had previously existed for very long. The first time I went to Cibus, it was practically voyeurism. Every time thereafter, it's been a delight.

Cibus is a child of NYC transplant and first-time restaurateur Maya Cabrera. After budgeting three months to open the original Cibus, it took her closer to three years to serve her first plate. Cabrera's instincts (and food) served her well, because now, three years later, she's opened a second location in town, Cibus Dos.

The original location (which is still open) is north of Sikorsky airport where Igor flew the first helicopter. It’s a tiny shop with big flavors that deserved a larger space. Thankfully Cibus Dos opened up on Main Street right by the Stratford train station in a deep, bright space done in blue and white, fronted by a bar and a small sidewalk patio. Behind the main dining area and fireplace, a presumably larger kitchen has lead to an expanded menu of tapas, charcuterie, and a round selection of larger plates and ceviche.

This was the environment I stepped into when it was demanded I try the soup. Spotting a deal, I ordered instead from the lunch special menu: one protein and two sides for $9.50, daily. I went with the chicken stew, fries, and arroz moro (rice and beans with sausage). This is what I got:

The chicken stew was served open faced, surprisingly - “stewed chicken” may be a better way to put it on the menu - but it was sublime. Spiced but not spicy, and so flavorful I would have picked up the bone and gnawed the last bits of meat from them if it hadn’t fallen so obligingly away at the touch of my fork. The moro rice was likewise deeply flavorful, and fully worthwhile as a standalone meal. The fries, though...

On my first visit to the original location, tiny little Cibus hooked me on a lure baited with lomo saltado. I'd been missing this dish after the closure of a favorite South American spot in Stamford, and a dish made of steak and fries seemed like a safe bet at a place so small I was bumping elbows with diners at other tables. They say pessimists are never disappointed, but I was something else entirely - I was overjoyed. The fries, and this is an important part of lomo saltado, were universally bright and golden yellow, with none of the browning you get from careless use of old oil. The beef was tender, savory, and dressed up with peppers, but the whole dish was something more: it was pretty. Someone had put thought and care into this food. That care, in preparation and plating, is what elevates Cibus. It is both the inspiration, and the outcome.

Cabrera, who had never even worked at a restaurant before opening Cibus, wasn't sure what to call her leap of faith once she's signed the lease, so she looked up the Latin word for food, hence "Cibus." The menu is a blend of central and South America and the Caribbean influences their web site says has to do with borrowing recipes from different members of her family. Shrimp Veracruz, Dominican mofongo, Colombian arepas, Argentinian asado, all have places on a menu which can deliver what you want, even when you don't know what that might be.

The ropa vieja is another favorite dish which keeps bringing me back, with pulled skirt steak braised in a garlic, tomato, and pepper sauce, served either over rice as a main course, or over corn cakes in the Arepitas appetizer, which also includes fresh cheese and a drizzle of enchilada sauce. Other highlights not to be overlooked are the costillas baby back ribs with mango BBQ sauce and mango relish, and the aguacate relleno: grilled avocado stuffed with shrimp, salsa, and topped with their spicy enchilada sauce. I'll typically order one big dish and hunch over it like a hawk guarding a freshly downed hare but, I admit, like many other diners in my experience at Cibus, it's often just as rewarding to order multiple tapas and make sure - make certain - everyone tries some of this.

Cibus Dos, 2415 Main. St., Stratford & Cibus Latin Fusion, 1 Woodend Rd., Stratford; cibuslatinfusion.com