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Filtering by Author: James Gribbon

14 Spots For Vietnamese Banh Mi In CT & A Little Banh Mi History

Restaurant Features Banh Mi Sandwich Guide Sandwiches Vietnamese Asian Food Lunch Homepage

James Gribbon

One morning this summer I woke up to see a note I’d scrawled, apparently in my sleep: “The banh mi is the entire world in one sandwich.” As far as dream-thoughts go, this was in the top 1% of my most coherent, although it’s not, strictly speaking, true. The “entire world” encompasses places like Paraguay and Iceland, and I’ve thankfully yet to see anyone dare put the fermented shark Icelanders call harkarl on any sandwich. The bánh mì is a global sandwich, then, with the flavors and history of Europe, Asia, and America in every bite.

Below you’ll find 14 of our favorite spots for BANH MI in Connecticut.

(If we missed your favorite spot for Banh Mi, please let us know.)

The story of the bánh mì has roots in the longstanding colony of French Indochina, including present day Vietnam. Wherever any culture goes, their food follows, blending with local flavors and traditions to become part of the overall human mosaic. Pot-au-feu (steaming pot), a soup or stew made from meats and vegetables in a bone marrow broth, is a staple in every corner of France. Locals adapted this bone broth pot using available ingredients – lemongrass, Thai basil, beef tendons, and more – and feu became phở.


Strega Opens In New Haven With Tasting Menu & Outstanding Wine List

Restaurant New Haven Opening Italian Fine Dining Tasting Menu Wine Dinners Wine Bar

James Gribbon

“Yale asked me if I was interested in the space, and I took it as a challenge. A small space, few tables, no pizza – I was able to focus on fine dining.” I’m in New Haven, talking with chef Danilo Mongillo about Strega, his second restaurant of the same name, but with a very different concept. 

“You have excellent food here – French, Spanish, American – and I took bringing this level of Italian to downtown, not in competition, but just to bring more good food here. That was the challenge.”

The first time I ate at Strega was the location in Milford (both restaurants are just off the corners of their respective city greens) and I’d returned many times for his creations which were just a little different – the way a sentence is altered when the pen is in a different hand – and made with exceptional ingredients. I ask if the new Strega is based on anything regionally Italian, and he shakes the question off, moving in another direction.

“Fine dining is about the technique. It’s about the balance of the flavors – something sweet, something sour – and the balance with the wine. The balance of the bite.”


Zeneli Celebrates 5 Years on Wooster Street, New Haven

Features Restaurant New Haven Pizza New Haven Pizza Homepage

James Gribbon

“People said to me ‘You want to open a pizza place on Wooster Street? Are you crazy?’, and I said yes.”

I’m talking to Jeshar Zeneli in March of this year. The first hint of buds are on the trees, and no one is yet brave or hearty enough to seat themselves at the outdoor cafe tables, directly across from Libby’s Italian pastries. I’m at the small bar with a glass of red and a ball of mozzarella which tells his life story. It both explains, and justifies, the crazy idea.

The Zeneli brothers – Aleko, Gazmir, Jeshar, and Jetmir – have a history of bold ventures. When the Iron Curtain fell from the borders of their native Albania in 1991 and friends and neighbors were making their way out of the former Soviet Bloc to countries like Greece or Germany, the brothers wisely decided on Naples instead, where they became cheese makers and pizzaiolos. Jeshar was recruited as a consultant in New Haven, teaching a local shop to make Buffalo mozzarella, ricotta, burrata, scamorza, and first got a taste of the local apizza. 

The brothers by then were living in New York, where Gazmir had won a Caputo Cup for his pies at Rossopomodoro at Eataly. They became convinced there was room for classic Neapolitan pizza in New Haven’s dining scene. On August 1st, Zeneli Pizzeria e cucina Napoletana celebrated its five year anniversary. 


Two Cocktail Industry Veterans Open Connecticut Distilling In Waterbury

Features Spirits Distillery Cocktail Lounge Cocktails Homepage

James Gribbon

Connecticut has seen a bewildering explosion of craft breweries in our state since the early 2010s, but distilling? Not so much. We do have some very worthwhile options in the state, from Litchfield and the Hartford region, through the Rt. 8 corridor, and Fairfield County. The newest borrows the state’s name, alongside a few familiar faces in the industry.

In March of 2020 [ominous music plays] we brought you the birth announcement of our then-newest Connecticut distillery, Continuum, on the upper outskirts of Waterbury. What was old is now new again, and the cycle continues with Connecticut Distilling.

“We have new spirits, new recipes, new products like bourbon barrel aged maple syrup, new hours for the tasting room; it’s a brand new distillery,” said Stelios Stavrianos, who has partnered with well-known bartender and beverage industry founder, Dimitrios Zahariadis, otherwise known as the Cocktail Chemist, to create Connecticut Distilling.


Tee Box at Two Roads Brewery Now Open with Golf Simulator & NEW Food Hall Eats

Features Opening Brewery Food Hall Golf Stratford

James Gribbon

The campus at Two Roads in Stratford has expanded to encompass not just one, but a dozen plus golf courses. At this point the brewery’s “campus” may better termed an estate. The new Tee Box at Two Roads is a private, reservable golf simulator fitting up to six players, but with room for about ten, fully stocked with food and beverages. The available food menu has been fully revamped, with tacos, flatbreads, burgers taking the place of most of the German options at the Food Hall. Scroll your options, tap a button, and presto. I had several of both. What were they? How was it? And is it possible to lose a digital golf ball? THE RESULTS MAY SHOCK YOU.


First Look: Elicit Brewing Company Opens Second Location in Fairfield

Features Brewery Restaurant Elicit Brewing Company Fairfield Craft Beer Beer ct beer Homepage Brewery

James Gribbon

Elicit Brewing Company’s second location will open to the public on Monday, February 12, and CTbites has the inside scoop. More accurately a brewpub, the brand-new location will encompass a microbrewery, 100-tap taproom and social space, an in-house cocktail-focused speakeasy, and a large, covered back patio with direct access from the Fairfield Metro train station.


Friday Froth: Viva La Michelada

Ingredients CT Beer Friday Froth Mexican

James Gribbon

Call it a "bloody beer," and I will have you flensed. An associate from Oklahoma calls them that, and his entire recipe consists of V8 and Gas Station Lite, like some sort of godless swine. I call it a michelada when I drink them, and you should, too. This sounds prescriptive, and it's intended to, because it's best to be forewarned and forearmed when we encounter a new specie. 

I have long been a fan of the bloody mary - in fact, I credit her with saving my life many a time during the Great Patriotic Keg Wars of my early 20s, but 30 was stealing up on me like Trotsky's assassin before I was swept up in the red coup of the michelada, and I've been a member of the party ever since, comrade.

Mistakes were made along the way, of course. 'This is a recovery drink,' I remember thinking. 'A sort of tremens-drip for the drinking class. It stands to reason that the more vitamins, minerals and other assorted Earth-stuffs, the better, yes? V8 is packed with many of the vegetables I hate, ergo it's bound to be good for me/this drink.' Ice, hot sauce, salt, pepper and beer went into the glass with the red fluid from the colorful bottle, and the results more successful than The Great Leap Forward only in that no one actually died. It was like drinking carrot juice from a storm drain. 


Gioia Italian Restaurant, Market, & Gelateria Opens In New Haven October 19th

Restaurant New Haven Opening Pizza Wood Fired Steak Cocktails Gelato Specialty Market Pasta Homepage

James Gribbon

Gioia, the new wood-fired Italian dining/cocktail/gelato/rooftop bar on Wooster Street from partners Tim Cabral (Ordinary) and Avi Szapiro (Roìa), is set to open in October, but we’ve already visited the spot to give you a first look.

You’ll see the space, get a glimpse of the enticing menu, and read our exclusive interview with the partners about the concept’s creation in their own words. Read on!

Avi describes how the two met one night in 2011 when he was eating at Caseus: the seed event which would lead to the creation of Gioia.

“I thought nobody knew me or what I was doing, and Tim comes up to me and says ‘I heard you’re opening a restaurant, what’s the concept?’”

That turned out to be Roìa, which opened within two weeks of Tim’s Ordinary (“We literally shared a back door between the restaurants, we’d steal stuff from each other all the time.”), and the two became great friends, to the point they started brainstorming ideas just so they could work together. 


Somos Handcrafted Arepas Opens in New Haven & Shelton

Restaurant Latin American Arepa Venezuelan Opening New Haven Lunch To-Go Delivery Comfort Food Homepage Shelton

James Gribbon

So, maybe you’ve had an arepa. Eaten hot from the pan, or made into fat little sandwiches somewhat akin to a stuffed pita, the puffy, crispy, hunger-busting cornmeal cakes are the unofficial comfort food of Venezuela. Or maybe you haven’t. Somos Handcrafted Arepas wants to help with that.

Brothers Alejandro and Andres Cordito grew up in Hamden as the sons of Venezuelan parents, and started taking notice of how the everyday food they had at home, on trips to visit family in Caracas, and during Andres’ time in college in South Florida, just wasn’t apparent in Connecticut. Now, with two locations in New Haven and Shelton, they’re increasing access to this gloriously variable sandwich. 

What does that mean? I’m glad you asked! 

First: Say “ah-RAY-pah."


Sound On Sound Music Fest Food & Beverage Lineup Released!

Features Events Live Music Festival Events

James Gribbon

Of all the lessons I’ve learned in life which turned out to be Actually True, “No one ever laid in bed, late in life, and wished they went to fewer shows” is up near the top. Did a show get away from you this year? Maybe a weeknight concert series in a local park, and you just never found the time? Did a few notes of the Weezer and Future Islands show from the amphitheater in Bridgeport breeze through your car windows as you crept along on I-95? Shaking your head Yes? Well shake it off like you’re erasing an Etch-a-Sketch, and take your last festival opportunity of 2023 in Connecticut this Sept. 30 – October 1 in Seaside Park at Sound On Sound.

The complete setlist for the shows can be found HERE, but we’re not Pitchfork, so here’s a look at the food and drink options to keep you going at this year’s banger...


Two Roads Food Hall & Bar Opens in Stratford From Two Roads Brewery

Features Restaurant Food Hall Burgers Tacos Brewery Two Roads Brewing Company Opening Comfort Food Homepage

James Gribbon

The Two Roads Food Hall & Bar is now open at the brewery’s expanding campus in Stratford. The food hall, in an expanded space which formerly housed garage-themed PizzaCo, now incorporates three food concepts: Skull City Taquitos, Roost House Chicken, and Industry Schnitzel and Sausage, with a full bar. 

All three concepts are handled through a single kitchen at the newly designed space, and ordering is done through kiosks at the food hall, or inside the tasting rooms at the Two Roads and Area 2 breweries, with delivery right to your seat. 

CTBites has your first look...

If food hall head chef Tim Lonczak sounds familiar, it’s because you may remember the Meriden native’s name from Heirloom at The Study Hall in New Haven, and most recently at Isla & Co. in Fairfield. Already acquainted with former Isla manager - now Two Roads hospitality manager - Ben Paré, the pair joined with restaurateur Frank Klein to bring the food hall to life.

“It’s really exciting to do, because I don’t know of any brewery in Connecticut doing anything like a three-brand, fast-casual concept,” said chef Lonczak. “It’s familiar dishes, but elevated, changed up a little bit.”


Friday Froth: Mexican Lager, Made In Connecticut

Features Brewery CT Beer Brewery Beer Beer Garden Friday Froth

James Gribbon

Despite expert credibility having recently taken several cannonballs below the waterline, and 60-degree sweater weather remaining in abundance, summer - they tell us - has officially arrived. The days are near their longest, and the months start with “J”, so we must grudgingly accede they have a point. This time each year, in a migration as timeless and majestic as the great herds of the Serengeti - Nutmeggers can be seen dragging our coolers to beaches and backyards. What are we drinking? Hard seltzer! NO! I mean, yes, but also: shut up. 

We are drinking:

  1. Very cold.

  2. Easy drinking.

  3. Usually Mexican lager. Corona, Pacifico, Modelo, ET C.

Why do we drink these? Because 1&2, but also... it’s what we’ve always done. Why are you thinking about this?

BECAUSE I’ve been noticing Connecticut brewers have been trying out the style in increasing numbers, they are delicious, and more people should know, which has always been the entire point of this column.


Hot Murga Indian Hot Chicken Opens in New Haven

Restaurant Fried Chicken Sandwich Fried Chicken Hot Chicken Comfort Food New Haven Opening Fast Casual To-Go Indian

James Gribbon

"Suffer for your art” is the operative phrase when reviewing a hot chicken joint. From the roar of takeoff, to the turbulence, and spine-compressing jolt of landing, you know what’s coming because you’ve bought the ticket and taken this ride before. You can predict the future: it’s the opposite of gambling. In a new study researchers found gorillas will spin themselves until they fall over because getting dizzy is kind of like getting high to them, and that’s fun. Same goes for humans scorching our faces off via chicken breast. 

Occasionally on the rides we buy, something unexpected happens. It may be a “Yes, thank you for waiting: we currently have no idea where we sent your bags,” or it may be “So sorry, there’s a mechanical issue on your cross-Atlantic flight, and you’ll have to stay in a free room in Reykjavik for 24 hours and watch the Aurora Borealis.” Could go either way. Which is why it’s pretty cool to find an Indian/Nashville hot chicken smashup on Howe Street in New Haven.


Friday Froth: Caius Farm Brewery Opens in Branford

Brewery Features Beer CT Beer Brewery Branford Openings Homepage

James Gribbon

On March 15, 44B.C., the “Ides of March” made famous by Cato and Shakespeare, Julius Caesar was assassinated after declaring himself dictator for life – essentially a new king - by senators who wanted to preserve the Roman republic. It was during this shakily-auspicious lunar period when I found myself transfixed by a circa-2nd century A.D. Roman mosaic of the god Mercury at the brand-new Caius Farm Brewery in Branford, and sipping a beer called “Brutus.” Cosmic.

“Caius” isn’t just the name of the place, it’s the name of its owner, one Caius Mergy: a Middlebury College Classics major with a Masters in Classical Archaeology from the Oxford University in England, who then decided to graduate at the top of his brewing classes at the Siebel Institute in Chicago, and the Doemens Academy in Munich. You know, for fun. Long time readers of this column will know about my history dork-dom (it’s my undergrad degree, too), and I mention with a name like that, Caius’ parents must have also been into classics.


Tim Cabral & Avi Szapiro Opening Gioia Restaurant & Market In New Haven

Features Restaurant New Haven Openings Italian Specialty Market

James Gribbon

Long-time New Haven restaurateurs Tim Cabral and Avi Szapiro (Ordinary) have worked with contracting partners Anthony and Gerard Bianco to breathe new life into the former Tony & Lucille's at 150 Wooster Street. Gioia ("Joy" in Italian) should spark plenty, with a wood-fired grill and rotisserie, Italian grocery, full bar, gelato stop, and a rooftop deck. 


Vergelegen, South Africa’s 2nd Oldest Winery Comes To CT

Features Ingredients Wine Ingredients Wine Chat

James Gribbon

Vergelegen, South Africa’s second oldest winery, was introduced in the U.S. for the first time this year. We had an opportunity to try these outstanding wines, and speak with the group responsible for bringing Vergelegen to America.

Vergelegen's existence in the U.S. is one of the better success stories we’ve heard from the last two years, but its history dates back to the year 1700, when the Dutch East India co-founded the vineyard in order to have drinkable liquid on Cape Horn when traveling back and forth from India, Indonesia, and all points East.

Vergelegen (closest pronunciation we can manage is VAHK-heh-lehn) means "situated far away," and the original estate totaled an absolutely whopping 74,000 acres. A bit smaller now, the current production is still 100% estate wine, and their V and GVB wines are still produced on specific blocks of the old vineyard, located around the corner from Stellenbosch. Cold currents of air coming from Antarctica at night, with hot weather from Indian Ocean in the day, plus variable soils at the base of the Helderberg Mountains have proven perfect for wine growing.


Strega Restaurant Owners Open Strega Market In Milford

Features Ingredients Openings Specialty Market Grocery Store Italian

James Gribbon

Chef Danilo Mongillo continues to bring his vision of Italy to Milford with the newly opened Strega Market. On the same block as the Strega restaurant he opened after the pandemic had closed his original location in Branford, the Market showcases the same sauces and ingredients used just two doors down, as well as sought-after tastes of home for Italian expats, like Mongillo himself.

The market layout is simple, but its contents are rich with multitudes of flavors. First, though, Mongillo takes me to the side, past rows of gleaming jars, and selects a small package.

“Cards,” he says, “From Naples. You go into a little market like this in Italy, they always have the cards for people.” It’s indicative of the outlook he has, wanting the market to feel instantly familiar to anyone who grew up in Italy, and to bring that experience, that food, to Connecticut.


Connecticut Taco and Margarita Festival Comes to The Hartford Healthcare Amphitheater in October

Events Features Tacos Festival Bridgeport

James Gribbon

The people demand tacos, and on October 15th at the Hartford Healthcare Amphitheater in Bridgeport, they shall receive tacos. And also margaritas. Naturally.

The 2022 Connecticut Taco and Margarita Festival at The Amp is available to anyone with $15 and dream to eat tacos, drink margs, see live wrestling from Adrenaline, maybe get their face painted, have access to shop vendors, test their courage at the hot sauce expo, and possibly gain a championship of their own at the taco eating contest.