Esh Modern Mediterranean Restaurant Opens in Fairfield from NYC's Taboon Team

The highly anticipated, Esh Modern Mediterranean, is now open in Fairfield CT, from the team that brought you NYC’s acclaimed, Taboon. Taboon closed due to a fire that left most of Hell’s Kitchen scrambling to find a new dinner reservation that matched the quality of this “Middleterranean” (hybrid of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean) spot, but the Taboon, Arabic for wood-burning oven, is now burning hot in Fairfield, and the menu, interior, and service are actual fire!

The cuisine at Esh is inspired by Mediterranean and Middle Eastern countries including Israel, Lebanon, Turkey, Aegean, Greece, and Morocco, and much of the menu is cooked in the taboon or on their charcoal grill. From the LahmaJoun Flatbread with mixed lamb, tahini and sumac, to the Fire Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Black Tahini smoked Maldon Sea Salt, many dishes arrive at your table by way of an open flame. Also, all of the decadently large and excellent Hummus Bowls (including my favorite-the Australian Wagyu Shawarma), are also accompanied by fluffy, chewy, wood-fired bread that, for my money, rivals any New Haven pizza crust.

The team at Esh have years of experience and truly understand what it means to run a restaurant, delivering a guest experience that is firing (pun intended) on all cylinders. They took their time, a year and a half to be exact, to open ESH, and it shows. Owners, Noam Langleib and Chef Efi Naon (awarded two stars by Frank Bruni), are masters at their craft, and this very seasoned duo run the show…and the kitchen, in a way that feels like you’re watching a perfectly choreographed dance.

The actual dining space has been given as much attention as every other detail at Esh, with one of the most most dramatic and beautifully designed interiors in CT, conceptualized by local designer, Christian P Arkay-Leliever. The open kitchen is expansive, running the full length of the dining room, giving diners a full view of the grills, vibrant vegetables, wagyu glistening on its charcoal spit- and, front and center, the fiery taboon. Massive golden chandeliers hang from the double high ceiling, casting a warm glow throughout, with sexy dark and gold finishes throughout. The walls are constructed from charred wood, and the wall coverings reflect the colors of the Mediterranean…as seen from the sky. A forest of trees runs down the center of the dining room and the kitchen is watched over by a giant octopus (designed by Arkay-Leliever’s daughter, Bree Arkay-Leliever). The bar has its own elegant charm and guests are welcome to eat here if they can’t score a reservation in the main dining space.

As this is just a first look, we will expound upon the menu and share a full review at a later date, but I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a few dishes that are mandatory orders if you’re planning on heading over in the next few weeks…which you should.

Start with a Hummus Bowl for the table. My preference is that topped with the aforementioned Wagyu Shawarma, but if you plan to have the Shawarma as a main, by all means select ANY of these bowls. The El Guapo with crispy avocado, black beans and pico & the Shippud Pargiot with Hawaii spice mix, stuffed with preserved lemon medjool dates are both also excellent choices. They come with their house made flatbread and some lovely dips. This could almost be a full dinner.

The Taboon Flatbreads are also a must. Honestly, they are all good, but I truly enjoyed the nod to Esh’s NYC roots with the Creamy Mustard Spread Flatbread featuring caramelized onions, Katz Deli pastrami and pickles. The abovementioned LahmaJoun should also be on your list.

The Meze Dips including Spicy Feta, Smoked Garlic Eggplant, and Labneh, are all solid and provide small samplings of the nuanced and bold Middle Eastern flavor profiles seen throughout this menu.

Some additional standouts from our two visits are below. These represent larger format dishes or shareable plates.

Australian Wagyu Shawarma- This is Wagyu slow roasted on a charcoal spit, sitting stop freshly made pita, pistachio, parsley, uber-fresh tomato red and onion salad, tahini and pickled mango chutney. There are no words for how tasty this thinly shaved succulent seasoned meat is. It’s just a perfect dish.

Arias Burger- So, let’s be clear…this is not an ordinary burger. This “burger” features ground brisket and short ribs pressed into a pita shell with caramelized onions, with baharat seasoning, (a warm spice blend typically includes black pepper, cardamom, cloves, cumin, nutmeg, coriander and paprika). It comes with crispy patatas bravas and a side of blended harissa dip. It’s entirely unique and very special.

Free Range Chicken “Maschan”- They always say don’t order the chicken, but this is not your average bird. This stunner is French cut, beautifully presented, with la boite ararat spice, cauliflower crust, sumac currant onions and a rich chicken rosemary reduction.

There is so much more to mention on this menu, but you’ll have to come back for that later…

It should be noted that the Cocktail menu beautifully reflects the Middle Eastern flavors found in the dishes. Also, the desserts are not to be skipped. The Esh Silan Sundae with delightfully crunchy dehydrated tahini is exceptional, along with the Coal Baked Knafe, a Middle Eastern dessert with a shredded filo dough crust, a sweet cheese filling, topped with a rose water flavored simple syrup, and I’m going to let you be surprised by the layers of goodness in Grandma’s Biscuit Cake.

The bottom line….This is 2023’s most exciting restaurant opening in CT, and I’d encourage you to make a reservation. It looks and feels like NYC or LA, and we are here for it. Full review coming soon.

ESH Modern Mediterranean

1401 Kings Hwy, Fairfield, CT 06824

Phone: (203) 883-9222