The thing about most food trucks in our area is that they’re seasonal. Once the weather gets frosty, they hibernate until the flowers begin to bloom again. But still, it’s better to have found quality eats late in the season than not at all.
I first heard about The Last Taco Stand (and we LOVE the name) in a couple of Norwalk local Facebook groups, then when I posted a quick Instagram story that I was planning to check them and their picturesque tacos out, that’s when my friend, Dominique said it was a good idea. Dom’s one of the folks I trust when it comes to food and drink, so when she told me that Neil, The Last Taco Stand’s owner, is “the best” and to make sure I get the sweet potato taco and “any of his hot sauces,” I knew I had to follow her instructions.
A little more than two years ago, Dennis Lake opened his fast casual, but gourmet approach to a taqueria right at the top of Greenwich Avenue. Now he’s taken his homemade blue corn tortilla tacos, Mexican side dishes, and margaritas to Darien’s The Corbin District with a second location of La Taqueria.
But don’t call it a franchise. Maybe don’t even ask him if that’s the plan, even if it does lend extremely well to damn near every city and town. Instead, Lake would likely prefer you call it a well thought out expansion.
On the heels of a slick renovation at their Rye, NY location, The Granola Bar founders, Julie Mountain and Dana Noorily are at it again. This time, however, their focus is in Westport. No, not at their flagship of TGB, but in the Compo Beach area at Old Mill Grocery & Deli.
Old Mill, though, is a very different venture for this dynamic duo. But before Mountain and Noorily could put their magic touch on this neighborhood gem, a lot had to happen.
First, the building that was built in 1919—which had been many iterations of Old Mill and a few Elvira’s in an over 100 year span—needed to be saved after the owners up to last year, Betsy and Hal Kravitz, moved out of Westport, putting a longtime neighborhood favorite at risk of being purchased and demolished for what likely would have been another beach area home.
Right on South Street on Connecticut Route 53 is one of Danbury’s newest restaurant openings, Farmboys Smokin’ BBQ. But Farmboys is only new in the sense that it’s finally a brick-and-mortar sit-down spot where guests can salivate over platters of smoked meat and carby sides right before you begin to tear into the BBQ that’s in front of you.
The fact is, Farmboys has been a barbecue brand since 2011. Its founder and pitmaster, Matt Lombardo, started his BBQ journey after having less than stellar experiences at a restaurant he was once fond of.
“There used to be a place in Brewster that I won’t name because I won’t be that asshole,” Lombardo recalls. “I loved their brisket. One day I watched them pull it out of the fridge, throw it in the microwave, and feed it to me. I didn’t ask the first time if it was fresh, but the second time I went, they told me it was fresh, yet they did the same thing! That led to 15-16 years of BBQ for me. I started in my backyard, then started doing pop-ups to get a real public opinion instead of just serving to friends and family.”
If you’ve been by Brown’s Marina lately to cast your line in the water or to take a sunset stroll, you may have noticed a super-sized food truck parked just to the left and construction on what’s soon to be a retail store.
These upgrades are courtesy of the Bloom Family, a name synonymous with oysters, specifically Copps Island Oysters. According to food consultant Matt Storch—who you should know from his acclaimed Match Restaurant in South Norwalk—the Blooms purchased Brown’s Marina a few years ago from its original owners. “They spruced it up and made it a working oyster and clam dock and are in the process of turning the building into a Copps Island retail store (similar to the one in Norwalk),” he says. “They wanted to activate the beautiful space on the water because there could be more waterside dining here with exceptional, but simple food.”
f you’ve driven by the stretch of Connecticut Avenue in Norwalk in the past few years by Baci Deli and directly across the street from Utopia, you may have noticed signs of life in the old John’s Diner.
The skinny on John’s Diner dates back to 1927 when Joseph Flynn transported the diner/trailer from Port Chester to Norwalk. But the “John” in John’s Diner didn’t actually happen until 1939 when it was run by John Ferandino, then ultimately his son, Michael, until 1994.
John’s Diner has been closed ever since.
But it’s back! Sort of.
Gone are the ultra-affordable blue plate specials and breakfast platters and in place of the diner fare are tacos, elote, fajitas, burritos, and some fun Mexican fast food in a burger with caramelized onions, grilled pineapple, bacon, Swiss, and grilled jalapeños.
As I sit in the Tall Pine Bar in New Canaan’s Adirondack Store waiting for my meeting with Karla Sorrentino, sipping on a cold brew that’s making my heart race even more after a workout an hour prior. I welcome the jitters and the calorie burn that coincides with coffee, because later I’m diving into a Hot Capi pizza from Joe’s, and after it, whatever creamy treat I knew Karla was about to bring for me to sample.
In she walks and immediately smiles and extends her hand for a shake. “Forget that,” I say, “We’ve been chatting on social media for YEARS!” We hug. It’s a miracle we’ve never met. Between our mutual friends and her husband, Nick, it’s seemingly impossible.
She hands me a mysterious looking Ziplock with another bag inside it containing dry ice and a tiny cup of halva peanut crunch ice cream. I admittedly wanted to eat the tahina ice cream swirled with halva, salted peanuts, and bittersweet chocolate on the spot. I figured it’d be great after pizza later on, and also odd to shove it down in a coffee shop where I didn’t buy it.
Beef Bourguignon. She was not supposed to be able to do that. Prepare it. Cook it. Cook anything, much less make lunch for a few aristocratic types, members of Parliament, the diplomatic corps. The Royal Family.
London, England. 1976. The British Press Association. High noon. The chef had just resigned. More to the point, retired. “My daughter can jolly well do it,” her father exclaimed. The report is that Karen countered with a startled, “Me?”
Though brought up ever so polite and proper, Karen showed little to no interest in finer British manners, and well, “off you go!” Perhaps the nuns could shape the morals of this wild young thing, set her right, mold her— or so her parents hoped, but that’s a another story. Unclassified, but still a story.
But executive chef for royalty? She had no culinary training, no experience in a kitchen, although she has admitted her parents were, “quite the cooks,” but right there and then, she decides to, for lack of better words, just “wing it!”
Brian Lewis officially has two pair. It’s generally a foldable poker hand, but when it comes to his successful restaurants OKO and The Cottage, that’s a very good thing for the rest of us.
The opening of a second location of The Cottage gives Lewis his fourth. OKO times two in Westport and Rye, plus his flagship of The Cottage in Westport.
But an exact facsimile of Westport it is not.
First off, it looks different. Grayish tan wooden tables and chairs, hues of power blue, wooden beams, and beachy décor are reminiscent of relaxed Cape Cod vibes. It’s also bigger. The dining room, the bar, the kitchen are all more spacious than Westport.
Punch “J.B. Percival” into Google Maps and you’ll be well on your way to enjoying an expertly mixed drink in Fairfield County’s only straight up cocktail lounge. All that’s left is actually finding the entrance.
Your GPS will tell you “you’ve arrived,” and you’ll likely be close, whether you’re parked at Fairfield Metro or parallel on Unquowa Street. There’s still a bit of legwork left. Head down Donnelly Walk, spot a handful of outdoor seats, and you’ll ultimately see their logo and “Permittee Amy O’Shea” decaled on the glass door.
If you’re just now hearing about J.B. Percival, it might be because O’Shea and her husband, Billy, opened their doors at the start of 2020. Nine weeks after they began mixing drinks and pouring pints, they were shut down for on-premise everything like every bar and restaurant was. Like most, they pivoted to a takeout model selling to-go cocktails, cocktail kits, wine, eggs, honey, masks, hand sanitizer, and even vegetables. As restrictions eased, J.B. Percival started slinging drinks for outdoor patio consumption, and then, finally, it was back to welcoming customers back indoors.
If you’ve walked through the doors at The Norwalk Art Space, chances are you’ve had a bite or a caffeinated pick-me-up at the Art Space Cafe.
Under the direction of chef/restaurateur Bill Taibe, the food at the cafe is nothing short of spectacular. The sandwiches aren’t only stacked and satisfying, they’re photogenic, too. And the fresh baked biscuits and other random weekly specials are made with love and care. To boot, there’s plenty more in terms of eggy options, salads, soups, and stunning coffee creations.
But executing all of the goodness you’ve had (or will have) at The Art Space Cafe is head chef Caitlin McGowan. For McGowan, food holds a special place in her heart as it’s deeply rooted in old school traditions and closely related to the bond she has with her family.
I don’t want to give away too much, as I’d prefer you read the answers to a few of the subjects we talked about, including her upbringing, culture, her culinary journey up to this point, and homemade jam.
So much has changed since we last covered Swyft’s modern tavern concept located on Kent’s main drag.
Like most restaurants, Swyft had to deal with pandemic restrictions. But unlike most restaurants, they had to get up off the mat three more times. Lauded chef and partner Joel Viehland parted ways with Swyft around the time COVID shutdowns hit Connecticut.
Mere weeks after Viehland’s exit, Swyft’s owner, philanthropist Anne Bass, sadly passed away on April 1, 2020, after a battle with ovarian cancer.
And if that wasn’t enough, dynamo pastry chef Anthony D’Amelio went off to pursue other goals sometime last year.
We know, that’s a lot to take in.
According to Allison Mitchell—who’s essentially Swyft’s Swiss Army Knife as she handles social media, does photography, coordinates events, waits tables, bartends, and somehow fits in marketing duties—Swyft went through a “huge overhaul.”
There’s only one way to begin an article about a restaurant that bears the name RoadRunner, and that’s with very Looney Tunes-like MEEP, MEEP!
Now that we’ve gotten the silliness out of the way—for now—it’s time to dish on this Bridgeport newcomer.
RoadRunner Kitchen + Bar comes to the Black Rock neighborhood from the New Canaan Restaurant Group whose restaurants include Gates in New Canaan and Bruxelles Brasserie in South Norwalk.
RoadRunner, though, is the polar opposite of its sister restaurants in terms of its high energy, casual vibe that suits families as well as adults who simply want to kick it at the bar and crush a few tacos.
But make no mistake, just because you read “tacos” doesn’t mean this is a Mexican joint. It’s New Mexican inspired. No, not like New American, but with Mexican food. We’re talking Santa Fe street eats and easy drinking cocktails with some fun shots thrown into the mix.
As Elm Restaurant successfully slides into their 10th year in New Canaan, we sat down with Chef Luke Venner to discuss this impressive milestone in a challenging industry. Elm is known for its friendly, local atmosphere, globally-inspired menu, and focus on fresh ingredients. Venner always has something new up his sleeve to keep diners engaged. Aside from seasonal menu updates, he introduced afternoon tea service in 2021, and navigated the pandemic with innovative to-go boxes. Side note: If you haven’t had his “Animal Style Burger,” you’re really missing out. Here are a few things you may not know about one of CT’s top chefs.
What made you want to be a chef?
It was somewhat accidental. I started working in a Steakhouse kitchen my freshman year in high school to earn extra cash for gas, the cool shoes, music, etc.. I began washing dishes and before long decided to quit sports to work full time after class. I quickly became one of the top cooks and by my senior year in high school I graduated as the sous chef at only 18 years old.
Prior to that, I had always thought I wanted to do something in the biology field and drew most of my inspiration from the outdoors. Back then, food still didn't have much presence on television and I had never picked up a cookbook, but I was drawn to the restaurant energy and I was sure much better ones than I had experienced existed. Ultimately, competitive drive got the best of me and I decided I would push myself as far as I could go in the business I was already in. I applied to a small European style apprenticeship program in Colorado 600 miles from my hometown and, much to my surprise, was accepted. I immediately began training for the next four years under an old world French chef and my life would change forever.
Riddle me this. The Granola Bar begins each morning frothing lattes, stacking egg sandwiches, and spreading avocado on sourdough. If they switch it up after hours by dimming the lights, mixing cocktails, popping corks, and serving up dry-aged smash burgers, caviar topped hash browns, and trout roe deviled eggs, what’s it called then?
The Bar.
Sorry that wasn’t as clever as a puzzle presented by a certain Batman villain.
But nevertheless, what’s happening at The Granola Bar’s Rye location is something worth spilling. And it all goes down in a setting that’s fit for Gotham City. All the marble, mirrors, palms and live garden walls make it feel like a cross between Manhattan chic and Miami Beach. It’s fit for date night, girl’s night (or guy’s night!), and a quick after work drink. Psst! The Bar opens at 5. Just an FYI for those who need a fast post-work fix.
Gina Luari is a force to be reckoned with. Young, driven, and armed with a clear vision and talented staff, at just 30 years old, she has created an experience in Place 2 Be that should be on everyone’s To Do list. It is loud, vibrant, and flashy, and the food gives bigger is better a run for its money. Cue Chef Xavier Santiago, also a force in CT’s restaurant scene; he has recently taken over as Executive Chef of the wildly popular, rapidly growing phenomenon.With wall to wall bottles of Veuve Clicquot and plates of sweet and savory treats like mini-mountains, Place 2 Be oozes pleasure party. When Boss Lady (Stephanie Webster) and I completed our experience, we were most certainly in a delicious daze from the massive treats, drinks, and sensory overload.
When you hear that a legendary hometown restaurant is ending its run after almost 40 years, a flood of memories tend to hit you. Suddenly, I was a kid again, sitting on a barstool next to my father. He’d chug away at a Heineken while I sipped on bubbly cola straight from the soda gun. Thin-ish, crispy crust bar pizzas—likely extra cheese, pepperoni, or both—were involved, too.
Even as an adult, I’d occasionally grab a couple pies from Partner’s Cafe & Pizzeria to-go. Every time I drove by, I’d think about pizza, soda, my dad, and feeling pretty damn cool sitting at the bar.
Thankfully, for me, and I’m sure for a hell of a lot of Norwalkers, Partner’s gets to live on thanks to B.J. Lawless and Keith Torpey, under a new name, but with intentions to preserve the bar’s neighborhood “where everybody knows your name” charm.
Some years ago, at a local food festival or a brewery, you may have come across a red truck by the name of “Pierogies On Wheels.” If I have to tell you what their signature dish is, you may want to reread that first sentence. Pierogies On Wheels in its truck form, though, is no more. But in 2020, it was resurrected under a new name and in a new storefront form in Downtown Shelton.
In case you’re wondering, it’s now known as The Rogi Shoppe.
At The Rogi Shoppe, it’s not only a continuation of the food truck, but also where the mother and son team of Mateusz and Ela Nogas are continuing their Polish heritage.
“My mom, sister (Magda), and I came to the U.S. in 2002 from Poland,” Nogas says. “My mom didn’t know much English. She worked part-time jobs but started making pierogi for family and friends. She eventually had so many orders that people told her that she should open a business.”
With Spacecat Brewing Company opening its taproom, South Norwalk finally has a brewery…
Again.
Not counting the two short-lived macrobreweries Guvnor’s and Iron which were located in the same space on Washington Street, the city hasn’t had a larger, buzzed about brewery since New England Brewing debuted on Commerce Street 1989 with then head brewer Phil Markowski, and they eventually moved to Marshall Street with another head brewer, Rob Leonard at the helm.
NEBCO left SoNo in 2001 for Woodbridge and Norwalk has been without a watering hole like it ever since.
A little less than 20 years later, James Bloom—no relation to the famous Bloom Family oyster operation—had an idea to open a brewery along with his friend and co-worker Jeff Dunn.
Paul Failla uses the word “afterthought” when describing the brunch that was previously offered at all four Fortina locations in Stamford, Armonk, Rye Brook, and Yonkers.
“The old menu was like five items,” he says. “People didn’t come here for brunch. They’d always get pizza. Brunch was always an afterthought here.”
One of Failla’s first orders of business as the restaurant’s sole culinary director was to all but scrap the former “barely a brunch” format and make Fortina a place you’d seek out for daytime drinks, yolky goodness, breakfast sandwiches, sweets, and more.
Failla joked that the only thing that would stay on the brunch menu are the bottomless mimosas, and while that’s true, the only other holdover will be a tweaked version of eggs in purgatory, but with a spicier marinara sauce.
