RAWA: Middle Eastern Fusion in New Haven

Several years ago, hungry and lost on a ski trip in the hinterlands of northern Vermont, I convinced the crew to stop at the first sign that said "brew" on it, which is how we all discovered (and loved) Trout River Brewing, then up in Lyndonville. Another time, half the Earth's orbit away on a sweltering evening before a show at the Bowery Ballroom, a little A-shaped chalkboard got us to check our stride with the words "Cheap Drinks," and an arrow pointing down stairs revealed by open steel doors in the sidewalk. The cellar bar was a riot of antique lamps, taxidermy, and, well, us after several of the promised drinks - some of which they even asked us to pay for.

The point is: places found when I've been lost or without particular plans have been some of the bookmarked highlights of my adult life, and RAWA in New Haven is one.

My little tennis group sometimes plays at Edgewood Park in Westville, and several hours of strenuous activity builds up a thirst which can only be satisfied by several fermented beverages, or least gives credibility to the excuse. The neighborhood is rich with opportunity in this regard, with Delaney's, Camacho Garage, and others, but one day this summer we were similarly heel-roped by a standee sign advertising $5 beer at a restaurant at the corner of Whalley and West Rock, right across from the courts.

The big space was mostly empty that afternoon and, as I went back to wash grip-tape off my hands, I saw them: stacks of tangines. Not just decorative showpieces, the two-piece clay pots were obviously kitchen-used, and full of promise. I was excited even before I noticed Sip of Sunshine, East Rock Lager, and Two Juicy all counted as happy hour beers.

RAWA calls itself "Mediterranean Fusion," and "Food For Life." The menu followed through on the promise. The whole group felt a nosh coming on, but I was ecstatic to try this accidental find. Hummus, lamb merguez, and a dip called foule all came out, accompanied by fresh pita still ballooned with steam. I'm of the opinion hummus is something you eat when salsa, guacamole, or onion dip aren't available, so take someone else's advice on what otherwise looked and tasted fine, but everything I've had thereafter - on several return trips - has been outstanding.

The foule, a rough dip of whole fava beans with chopped tomatoes, parsley, and garlic has become an automatic order every time I hold down a seat at the bar. Apparently simple in ingredients and preparation, the concoction comes together in a pleasing jazz of components all doing their own thing well together. A pickled pepper sits on top and adds spicy acid as fresh, chewy bread, allium, umami, and whole beans burst between your teeth. Dips like yogurt Labne, Muhammara, with roasted red pepper, onions, and walnuts, and spinach, chick pea, and tomato Nivik are also available for your exploration.

The lamb merguez comes skinless and spicy atop of foundation of tahini, with an on-plate chopped salad of Persian cucumber, Romaine, scallions, tomato, and EVOO. The variable combination of temperatures, textures, and flavors is an apt microcosm of the experience here.

Yes, you can get pizza at RAWA, and it's unlike anything else in New Haven. My favorite, so far, is the Lahmbajeen: a thin, crispy pie wall-to-wall with a spread of ground lamb, onion, tomato, cilantro, parsley, and spices. It doesn't come with it, but ask for a wedge of lemon to drizzle over the slices, and thank me later in the form of either beer or large cash donations. Go further outside Wooster Street with a dark Za'ater pizza, spread with the namesake herb, plus sesame seeds and sumac, or the Msakan, with roasted chicken, sumac, and pine nuts.

What else would you like? Moussaka? Biryani? Grilled chicken over cilantro lentil puree? Tabouleh with a side of carrot juice? Honeyed squares of flaky baklava crusted with pistachio? They have you covered.

A less adventurous friend ordered just chicken wings... and they turned out to be fantastic. A thin, slightly piquant and lemony marinade coats the wings, which arrive baked, naked, and delicious. They've become a standard order for anyone I introduce to this place, and here's the thing: RAWA absolutely deserves to be better known.

A steady trickle of to-go orders and a few tables in the sizeable space have been taken every time I've been, from last summer through this winter. In a town where people take justifiable pride in their foodie credentials, this little gem of the eastern Med seems to have largely escaped notice. Well, not on my watch.

RAWA
838 Whalley Ave, New Haven
Open lunch and dinner, Tues. - Sun.
203 691 5781; RAWAinc.com