Sure, Connecticut is loaded with actual seafood shacks. But not one I know resembles what you’ll find in the cool, casual confines of the Mohegan Sun casino. In a summer that’s been off the charts hot and humid, retreating to Jasper White’s Summer Shack is pretty much just what the doctor ordered.
Say you wanted to eat your way around the globe, but you were short on time and money and didn’t feel like flying. Problem solved. Chef Colt Taylor can take you there through his ever-changing menu. No jet lag or weather delays, and oh, the places your palate will go!
“We want to create more than a restaurant,” Colt explains. “We want to create this experience. Like you can come to four different places, and have four different meals, experiences, moments. We’re on menu 15 in five months. It’s exciting and it keeps things fresh.”
Not big on leaving the comforts of home? His Tuesday night burger night’s got all-American appeal, replete with fries and a craft brew. Wednesday is a popular Italian night. Mexico more your style? Take a trip on Thursday for tacos and tequila. And soon they’ll soon launch bourbon and braises on Fridays.
Then, come Sunday, it’s time for boozy brunch. “It’s eggs Arcadia and red velvet pancakes, all that fun stuff.” What’s eggs Arcadia, you say? “It’s my signature little brunch thing—like merging a Connecticut lobster roll and poached eggs. We put poached eggs over butter-poached lobster on a biscuit with a ginger-citrus hollandaise. It’s delicious!”
Step inside the former Chester Savings Bank and you’ll find a wealth of treasures. Not from the vault—they’ve got designs on that for a private dining area, actually. The richness of what’s fresh, local and unique is coming straight from the heart and kitchen of Chef Joel Gargano. With his wife and partner, Lani, together, they’ve brought his vision to life in twelve short weeks. “It’s all been up here—in my head—for years,” Joel said.
In his younger 20s, when Joel Gargano dreamed of owning a restaurant someday, he kept telling himself, “I’m never gonna open an Italian restaurant. The last thing Connecticut needs is another Italian restaurant.” But luckily, as he learned more about food, he changed his mind. Because Grano Arso is Italian food as it’s meant to be-- true to the chef’s philosophy—and that of Italian food, in general: fresh ingredients, a menu to change with the seasons, not making it fussy. And you can take that to the bank.
He’s been “handling dough” since he was thirteen, when he joined his dad at Castellon Brothers Bakery in Branford. “I would work the night shift with my dad on Saturday nights and wash dishes after school. I learned a lot with my dad.
This ain’t your average taste of Mexico. We’re talkin’ a two-pound, 12-inch marvel—ay, Chihuahua! Look no further than Margaritas, with local outposts in East Hartford and Mystic. A crispy shell, light as air, is piled with everything under the sun: seasoned chicken, ground beef, pork carnitas, bacon, cheese, lettuce, refried beans—let me catch my breath here—Mexican rice, salsa fresca and queso, topped with hacienda and picante sauces, crema and pickled jalapeños.
The challenge is, can you finish it in one serving? We failed, but enjoyed the Taco Gigante even as leftovers the next day. Want to give it a try? Put yourself on the wall of fame (or is that wall of shame?!). But you’ve got to get there quickly. Taco Gigante rides into the sunset when October ends, amigos.
Margaritas is located at 350 Roberts Street in East Hartford and at 12 Water Street in Mystic.
Meet Alex Levere—his roots may be French and German, but the luck of the Irish is clearly smiling upon him. He grew up in the restaurant industry on the shoreline, spent some time in Europe—specifically, you guessed it, in Ireland—in his early 20s, then Boston during his college years and beyond.
“Long story short, the economy crashed, I graduated, and there was nothing really going on, so I was bartending at a place, and they offered me an assistant management job. So, I took that, then I went to manager. Then I went to general manager and, right before the place was sinking, the head chef quit, so I took over the kitchen. I was like, I know I can do this, and I did it, but it was too little, too late. And that’s when we came across this place!” Now he’s turning out some truly inventive flavors at the Inishmor Pub in Colchester.
Tucked down a side street in downtown Hard Hittin’ (New Britain), Riley’s Hot Dog and Burger Gourmet is turning out some of the most creative dogs and burgers around. From the Nacho Poppa Dog to wild creations brimming with mac ‘n cheese, you’ll find combinations you never dreamed of. But this little “mom and pop” shop isn’t run by a husband and wife team. Rick Charamut and Deb Dalena are two friends, now business partners, who once worked together in a sign shop. “We both kind of needed a change of pace,” Rick says.
I heard it through the grapevine their ramen was simply divine, so off I went to check it out. Then, I sampled their sushi, and an ongoing dilemma emerged—what to eat today? Must I choose? Ideally, you’ll want to go with someone who loves both, so you can share and have the best of everything, all in one artfully presented meal. You’ll find it all under one roof at Takumi Sushi, Ramen & Lounge on Route 1 in Branford.
Shoreline locals talked up Hanami for years, so if you remember that spot, it’s now Takumi. And it’s fabulous. I’ve been making the trip to the shore just about every week to get my fix since December. A simple, contemporary space where you can take a break from the hustle and bustle and focus on dining deliciously.
My magic number for pho is 99. There are those who say 501 is better. I say, are you sure? Because, though I used to eat there back in the day, now my money's on Pho 99 all the way. Friendly service, clean, and more varieties of spring rolls than anywhere else I know. For me, it’s the pho gold standard. Not to mention, Chef Peter Nguyen is a sweetheart of a guy who takes pride in what they serve in his restaurants. The smiling man with the infectious laugh is the heart, soul, chef and secret recipe holder within the Pho 99 kitchen.
“The soup is a BIIIIIIIIIIIG secret! No one, family even--Mary’s (his business partner’s) husband don’t know! My wife don’t know! My cousins—don’t know! There’s a lot of businesses like us who come ask, what the heck are you doing? Unbelievable! What you put in there? I say, I do the same as you do!” Peter smiles, knowing full well what he does separates him from the pack and is absolutely not the same.
A drive down a road off Route 16 winds through a residential neighborhood. Park on the road or in the nearby field and walk up the stone-paved hill to a country barn with goats and chickens in the backyard. It’s Saturday—a.k.a. Caturday—and you’ve arrived at Fat Orange Cat Brew Co., a small seasonal farm brewery and tasting room in East Hampton, Connecticut.
Anthony Bourdain: chef, world traveler, writer, straight shooter, father to a 9-year-old. Lest you think fatherhood has softened him, he’s still telling it exactly like it is and had the crowd roaring throughout his show at Foxwoods last weekend.
A chef for 30 years before we got to know him through our respective TVs, Bourdain jetted around the globe in search of bizarre foods before anyone knew Andrew Zimmern. His commentary, with a signature side of irreverence, covered everything from politics to the food biz to his daughter, who just happens to be an adventurous eater herself.
To critics who eschew the familiar green bottle of beer that sometimes graces his table, he minces no words. “I like craft beer and I’m glad that our craft beer scene has expounded … but do you know what beer I really like? I like cold f*@%ing beer!”
Up the steps off the city streets of New Haven, you may feel transported to another time and place. A space that somehow manages to feel elegant, yet contemporary and welcoming at the same time. This could only be ROÌA, where its elaborate high ceilings and attention to a bygone era’s architectural detail make a striking first impression. But they only set the stage for you to be further impressed with the sights and flavors about to arrive at the table.
CTbites first visited ROÌA for its grand opening back in 2013—grand being a most fitting descriptor. We were thrilled to return and experience a dinner featuring summer’s bounty of the local heirloom tomato, in one interesting configuration after another. And just one in the “veg-centric dinner series” Chef Avi Szapiro has offered since last year, when they first showcased asparagus, followed by summer squash, then tomato.
On the corner Main and Commerce in Portland is a cozy place that’s the “Cheers” of breakfast, Sarah's On Main—“where everybody knows your name and you’re always glad you came.” If you’re from either side of the river, don’t be surprised if you bump into old friends—or make new ones. I do both each time I go. Whether you find a spot at the counter or grab a table, there’s fresh and local deliciousness with a spin of creativity, courtesy of Sarah Weeden.
What began as a quest for waffles grew into a steady habit of breakfast—and occasional lunch—at my newest home away from home.
Day one, I realized I’d stumbled into a little gem when I tried the BLT Bennie. Served on toasted brioche, it’s sheer perfection of a Benedict, drizzled with Hollandaise. The hash of the day was summer squash and zucchini, which I requested instead of home fries. Thumbs up all the way around.
There’s a Mediterranean breeze blowing through the historic village of Old Wethersfield, culinarily speaking. Within the Deming-Standish House, and on its patio outside, Lucky Lou’s is serving up deliciousness in a casual atmosphere for all lovers of fine, fresh food. It’s creative burgers piled sky-high on brioche buns. It’s an ocean far and wide of fresh seafood—from shrimp to octopus to cod. It’s serious pub food, and a place so serious about its beef, it’s strictly grass-fed Certified Piedmontese®, straight from America’s heartland. It’s desserts that change with the seasons, proudly made in-house.
Growing up, we had no shortage of good pizza in Middletown. Not surprising, given the number of Italians who call this city home. But over time, many of the old favorites I loved as a kid—Marino's, Giovanni's, D&S (for scacciata)—were no more.
Then Mondo came to town in 2010. “Great, another Italian place,” I thought. And apparently, I wasn’t alone. I recently met with Keith Vibert, owner of Mondo. “Before we were even open, a woman stuck her head in and asked, What kind of restaurant is this going to be? When we told her it was going to be an Italian/pizza place, she threw her hands in the air and walked out.”
But once we had a taste, we were sold. From creative salads and appetizers to panini and pizza, Mondo offers something for everyone. There are no bad choices here. And though it just happens to be my pizza home away from home, people come from everywhere to enjoy a meal with friends and family—or on a date. That’s pretty much what Mondo is all about.
Have you ever had a Boston creme donut, filled and glazed fresh to order, just for you? So the chocolate glaze is still beautifully wet and shiny, like an object of edible art when it’s passed your way?
Or perhaps you’d prefer a cannoli donut, filled to order, then dusted with powdered sugar and topped with a flourish of ricotta cream. This is just the place to get them. And, whoa, the aroma alone will draw you in, straight from the roadside trailer where they’re made fresh each day.
An air horn sounds as a truck rolls by on Route 81 in Higganum on a Tuesday morning. Owner Jeff Blaschke and I wave from the bright orange picnic tables. “That happens a million times a day,” he says with a smile. Open just five weeks, Redneck Gourmet Donuts is putting Higganum, Connecticut on the map. “We have approximately a thousand customers on a Saturday and Sunday, each day. Maybe a little bit more on Sunday.”
High atop a hill, near Newtown’s historic flagpole, lies the intersection of Church Hill Road and Main Street. And there, you’ll find an entirely different type of intersection—one where British and Italian cuisines meet. The concept was inspired by the original Dere Street, an ancient Roman road in Northern England, built in the first century A.D. To honor this historic place where British and Roman cultures intersect, the two cuisines are now celebrated at Dere Street in Newtown.
Past the 1800s building facade, it’s contemporary, whimsical and positively humming with other diners and imbibers. Home to 28 different gins, an abundant “British wine list” of single malts, beer and a selection of cocktails so unique, you’d be wise to arrive thirsty. Bring your appetite, as well as an open mind. If you’re a gin lover, this is the closest spot to heaven on earth you’ll find anywhere near here. And if you’re a vodka drinker? Well, they do have one brand, just in case they can’t convert you. Keeping with the British theme, it’s Broken Shed from New Zealand, a former colony. But they’d sure love to try to turn you on to gin.
Most people look forward to taking it easy and traveling in their 60s. But at age 62, Andy and Louise DiFiore had a different retirement plan in mind. They opened DiFiore Ravioli Shop on Franklin Avenue, in Hartford’s Little Italy back in 1982.
Their son Don explains, “My parents were always the home gourmet types. Back in those days, they weren’t called foodies, but they had a lifelong love of food. My dad had been an executive in the office machine world almost his whole life in sales and marketing. And he was probably looking at this more as being a retirement thing for income. Just like a little boutique store. But they stayed with it. My dad would be in the store until he was in his late 80s. And my mom stayed in the store till she was 90. She’s 95 now.”
Then, about five years ago, Don’s father was in a nursing home and his mother was getting too old to run the store any longer. They were going to close it. Then Don’s eldest sister came back home from Chicago to help. “She threw the option at me—do you want to do something with it? Geez, I don’t know.”
When Ryan Benoit and Jon Turgeon first met as freshmen at St. Bernard’s, they didn’t even like each other. But through a mutual love of sports and food—and being forced to car pool—they wound up being best friends. Now they’re business partners at The Seehund German Pub & Restaurant in New London.
Even in their younger days, they thought someday they’d have their own restaurant. But someday came sooner than anticipated when The Seehund’s previous owner moved out of state to be closer to family. At the time, Jon was already executive chef and Ryan was a fry cook. “He kind of pitched it as a joke to us—you wouldn’t want to buy this from me, would you, HA HA HA?” And no kidding, that’s exactly what they did. Ryan’s since taken over the front of the house while Jon continues his executive chef role in the kitchen.
Whether you choose lunch, dinner, a bite from the pub menu, or breakfast on the weekend, you’re in for a treat and won’t leave hungry.
It’s whimsical, delightful and delicious—a French patisserie blended with New England style and sensibilities that’s now part of Foxwoods Resort Casino. From edible art in all shapes and sizes to a rainbow of macarons to smiling brownies, creativity abounds at Cake by Franck.
Franck Iglesias started working in a kitchen at age 14. Also a chef, his father warned him it was no easy way to make a living. With days that can last 18 hours and sometimes end at 2 a.m., Chef Franck is no stranger to hard work. But pastry is his passion, and it’s obvious even before you set foot in his new store.
Peering through the window, a giant chocolate pirate rabbit tempts you to take a closer look. Once you’re inside, where to begin? Domes upon domes of croissants (chocolate, almond and coconut, thank you very much), pastries and cookies await along with an assortment of chocolates so artfully designed, they’re almost too beautiful to eat. But resistance is futile.
Because we first eat with our eyes, feast yours on what’s in store at Cake by Franck.
“That’s it,” I overheard a man say with a smile, holding his takeout order as he joked about having come in four days in a row. The word is out downtown...Pho 170, M’town’s newest/latest, is busy. The service is friendly and attentive, showing this new kid on the block is already in the groove, cranking out fresh and delicious dishes—both Vietnamese and Thai.
It’s not been quite three weeks since Viengthong Charonesuk opened the doors to her newest restaurant. And, unlike so many other spots when they first get started, everything’s well under control. Even on a night when they were one person short on the waitstaff, they pulled everything off without a hitch. Vieng hails most recently from Bann Thai in Cheshire, and she’s run restaurants in other locations across the state as well. Little things, like making sure you have extra plates when you share a dish, aren’t overlooked. And it’s always a nice touch when your water glass is refilled before you even need to ask.
