Chefs that have a bustling restaurant never take a full month off. For Luke Venner, “vacation” wasn’t pina coladas in the Caribbean, nor was it one of his fishing or hunting excursions. Instead, he was mostly in New Canaan, at Elm, remixing popular dishes, creating new ones, and reimagining and renovating the entire dining room. Don’t freak out. Your beloved Double-Double was unharmed in the process. But the dining room? Transformed. And it’s something that Venner—who’s in his 10th season as Elm’s executive chef and co-owner—has been meaning to tackle for quite a while. Talk to him about it and you can tell he’s feeling refreshed about all of it.
Twizzlers, Peanut M&Ms, butter drenched popcorn, a bucket sized Coke. Come on! We’re all guilty of indulgences when we go to see the latest blockbuster movie. I’m a Reese’s guy (or addict rather) myself. But moviegoers in and around New Canaan have an upgrade when it comes to theater fare. And no, we’re not talking about a certain chain that likely just heats up something from a package. The Playhouse in New Canaan, along with movie houses in South Orange, New Jersey and Cañon City, Colorado, with another in Bradley Beach, NJ on the way, are part of a renovation project by movie producer Luke Parker Bowles, the CEO of Cinema Lab Theaters.
I recently had the opportunity to dine at The Naan in Westport. Located on the Post Road (near Whole Foods) the restaurant is easily missed if you’re not looking for it -- You’ll want to keep your eyes peeled open for this one.
I’ve eaten at my fair share of Indian restaurants over the years. To be quite honest, all of it has been very good. Many places have been delicious, quite a few have been excellent, and a handful have been exceptional. The Naan fits into the latter category. Chef Prashant focuses on the cuisine of his hometown region of Punjab, and with 25 years of experience up his chef’s sleeves, his proficiency is evident in each and every bite.
It’s been a while since a new restaurant opened in New Canaan, so I was very excited when I heard that the much-anticipated Blackbird opened a few doors down from its sister restaurant Solé. After the first visit, the food was so spectacular, that I was quick to visit a second time a week late. Spoiler alert - It is already serving some of the best and most creative dishes in Fairfield County.
Blackbird is the newly opened addition of the Z Hospitality Group, which operates numerous, well-established restaurants in the area including Solé, Mediterraneo, Terra and East End. The narrow and long space is akin to the Solé layout, with tables in the front and a long bar and tables once you reach the mid-point. Unlike Solé, the kitchen is not open to full view, but is located behind doors in the rear. The front area serves guests on traditional tables while high-tops are stationed along the left wall in the rear half, which it shares with the long bar on the right. I was initially concerned about the potential for difficulty in hearing (a la Solé) but I was pleasantly surprised that the ambient noise in the front was friendly and the high-tops across from the bar were even better.
Between courses at one of his collaboration special events, Prasad Chirnomula spoke to his full dining room about creating a bond with his fellow Connecticut chefs.
“We’ve been doing this for almost a year now, bringing chefs together,” he says. “The whole point of doing this, is we, as chefs, work our asses off. We’re always back in the kitchen on Saturday nights, Sunday nights, holidays, and everything else. I’ve done my share of work, so I said to myself that I’m gonna enjoy what I did for so many years of my life. I want to create a legacy and a bond with people I recognize and know of. Even if I don’t know someone, I’ll pick up the phone, call them, and say, ‘Hey, buddy! How are you doing? Do you wanna cook together?’ This is the hardest industry to work in and food brings people together.”
So this taco and this pizza walk into an Indian joint…
Darbar India located in Branford, Connecticut is a family run business that has been a staple of the Branford community, serving authentic Indian cuisine for nearly 30 years. Sunny, Vinny and their father Haresh Nariyani took over the business in 2008 and this past January they relocated to its current location on Montowese Street.
When we were invited to check them out we naturally had to scope out their Instagram account which was filled with images of pizzas and tacos! Whaaaaat??? We really had to go see what this was all about.
Inside we found a small, modern space flanked by quintessentially Indian artifacts and figurines, punctuated by their fish pond. While the decor might be simple, it’s the food that steals the show. Darbar prides themselves on their traditional flavors and cooking styles. While Sunny and Vinny were both born in the states, Haresh did not come over until 1990.
"Suffer for your art” is the operative phrase when reviewing a hot chicken joint. From the roar of takeoff, to the turbulence, and spine-compressing jolt of landing, you know what’s coming because you’ve bought the ticket and taken this ride before. You can predict the future: it’s the opposite of gambling. In a new study researchers found gorillas will spin themselves until they fall over because getting dizzy is kind of like getting high to them, and that’s fun. Same goes for humans scorching our faces off via chicken breast.
Occasionally on the rides we buy, something unexpected happens. It may be a “Yes, thank you for waiting: we currently have no idea where we sent your bags,” or it may be “So sorry, there’s a mechanical issue on your cross-Atlantic flight, and you’ll have to stay in a free room in Reykjavik for 24 hours and watch the Aurora Borealis.” Could go either way. Which is why it’s pretty cool to find an Indian/Nashville hot chicken smashup on Howe Street in New Haven.
Okay, let’s be honest. When a foodie hears Michelin star, we can’t help but take notice. There’s a reason the ding and shine of that star draws attention. It means someone’s talents have not only been noticed, but they have consistently delivered The Best of what they do. And that is why making a special trip to Athithi Indian in Wilton was a must for me, and I now declare, a must for you. This new gem opened in the fall and is led by the first Indian Chef to receive a Michelin Star (now two) Chef Hemant Mathur.
I will never call myself an expert of any culinary realm or culture—even though I truly geek out over a few–I can say Indian food continuously has me under a spell. I also never seem to have an Off switch with it either, but that is something I rarely regret. There is just something about the combination of spicy, warm, floral, and earthy aromas and flavors that hit more intensely than other cuisines that I can rarely shake. Even before I continue, I promise, if you are a fan of this cuisine in the slightest, make a reservation; you will be under the spell too.
The Michelin Guide on Chef Mathur opens with, “If there’s a creative force behind New York’s trending Indian Restaurant scene, it’s Hemant Mathur.” Now a few years later, with the experience of six restaurants to his name, Connecticut diners get to experience some of that magical force with Athithi in Wilton.
On several occasions, chef Tim LaBant has suggested we check out Dante’s Pizza in New Canaan.
“Have you been to Dante’s?”
“Have you been to Dante’s yet?”
“You gotta try Dante’s. I’d be curious to see what you think.”
Before he mentioned it to me a year ago, I hadn’t even heard of Dante’s. I live pretty close to New Canaan, and what’s worse is I frequently visit my favorites there, namely the South Ends, Elm, Locali, and I’ve eaten an obscene amount of Joe’s Pizza.
As Elm Restaurant successfully slides into their 10th year in New Canaan, we sat down with Chef Luke Venner to discuss this impressive milestone in a challenging industry. Elm is known for its friendly, local atmosphere, globally-inspired menu, and focus on fresh ingredients. Venner always has something new up his sleeve to keep diners engaged. Aside from seasonal menu updates, he introduced afternoon tea service in 2021, and navigated the pandemic with innovative to-go boxes. Side note: If you haven’t had his “Animal Style Burger,” you’re really missing out. Here are a few things you may not know about one of CT’s top chefs.
What made you want to be a chef?
It was somewhat accidental. I started working in a Steakhouse kitchen my freshman year in high school to earn extra cash for gas, the cool shoes, music, etc.. I began washing dishes and before long decided to quit sports to work full time after class. I quickly became one of the top cooks and by my senior year in high school I graduated as the sous chef at only 18 years old.
Prior to that, I had always thought I wanted to do something in the biology field and drew most of my inspiration from the outdoors. Back then, food still didn't have much presence on television and I had never picked up a cookbook, but I was drawn to the restaurant energy and I was sure much better ones than I had experienced existed. Ultimately, competitive drive got the best of me and I decided I would push myself as far as I could go in the business I was already in. I applied to a small European style apprenticeship program in Colorado 600 miles from my hometown and, much to my surprise, was accepted. I immediately began training for the next four years under an old world French chef and my life would change forever.
It makes sense that the name of this now one-year old, bright spot in New Haven means FIREWORK. Its innovative, delicious dishes are bold and vibrant and the space pops out like none other. I typically prefer a dimly lit space when eating out and yet Pataka’s electrifying, glowing design, produced in part by Box 8 Creative, will mesmerize you and make you a believer; this fast casual, one-of-a-kind, veggie Indian experience, could not be any other way. It’s as if it is Diwali everyday. In addition to being a part of his father’s restaurant Sitar (in New Haven since 2006), Harry Singh has already created a local institution with House of Naan under his belt since 2016; so, knowing the demands and demographic of New Haven, a serious pocket of CT’s culinary creativity, was a given.
When was the last time you visited Grace Farms? The stunning 80-acre space in New Canaan, Connecticut that supports initiatives in the areas of nature, arts, justice, community, and faith, and encourages participation locally and globally is a treasure to visit. Pritzker Prize-winning River building, is the focal point, having become an integral part of the landscape. Designed to resemble a rambling river, five transparent glass-enclosed buildings that each live beneath one flowing roof. Here you will find The Sanctuary, a 700-seat amphitheater; the library, a staffed library with resources related Grace Farms Foundation's initiatives; the Commons, a community gathering space with 18-foot-long tables; the Pavilion; a welcome reception and conversation space with tea service; and the Court, an incredible underground recreational space used by local children and schools. Wander around the 80 acres of open meadows, woods, wetlands, and ponds and soak up all the breathtaking scenery.
In 2021 Grace Farms Foods was launched by Grace Farm’s Founder Sharon Prince along with Adam Thatcher to share with the world and invite everyone to be part of their mission by offering our signature cookies, coffee, and tea.
If we lived in 1840’s England, most of us in middle class and below wouldn’t be allowed to have afternoon tea. Now that we’re past the 19th Century—and living in America in the joyous years of 2020 and 2021—tea, tiny sandwiches, and snackable sweets before dinner is for all to enjoy, regardless of status.
Afternoon tea in present day Connecticut can be found, though places that offer it are few and far between, but there’s a new one going down on Fridays by Luke Venner at Elm in New Canaan.
Venner told us that the idea for tea and bites came about when he was reminiscing with colleagues about their days in Manhattan and wanting to offer a New York City experience for locals. “It’s good for a neighborhood place like Elm because people aren’t going into the city as much as they used to,” he says. “But city people are coming here, so why not try to recreate that?”
What Elm is doing is all kinda classic of a tea service but with Elm’s twist on it.
Expect to see mini cucumber sandwiches…but with caviar. A ham and cheese sammy follows the fancy trend as it’s topped with a sliver of black truffle. And there’s a foie gras macaron. You get the idea.
Venner mentioned that he drew inspiration from Gabriel Kreuther’s tea program at the Baccarat Hotel.
“He was the former chef at The Modern and that (afternoon tea at the Baccarat) was one of the best I’ve had,” he says. “Offering this has become such a fun, creative outlet for me.”
Nick Martschenko is every so closer to his monopoly on New Canaan’s restaurant scene. Even if that’s not the goal, he’s inching towards it with what’s now a downtown dining trifecta.
His latest venture, The Back End, is different. You can’t compare it to his flagship fine dining South End. And it’s not reminiscent of the laid-back but chatty speakeasy-meets-pub atmosphere of SE Uncorked, that stars “snacks + taps” (and cocktails and one damn fine burger).
“I wanted it (The Back End) to have Miami vibes, at least I want it to have that feel,” Martschenko says. “I envision it with the bar windows wide open, a super casual setting with lots of colors, lots of pink. Ruth (Stiefel) helped a lot with the design.”
The Back End is Mexican. Well, sort of. A more accurate description is Mexican inspired with a fine dining twist, and a little fast casual tossed into the mix.
“It’s elevated Mexican food,” Martschenko says. “I’m not gonna say we’re traditional, but we bear the traditional values of what we do. It’s different. I don’t know how to do it any other way.”
Attn: Cheese lovers. This just in from New Canaan Advertiser…
Elixirs for mocktails, a choice of 65 cheeses and coffee sourced from women farmers in Kenya will all be coming to New Canaan next month.
Plum Plums Cheese is moving with its gourmet goodies from its Pound Ridge, N.Y., location to 149 Cherry St. in New Canaan on April 1.
The 7-year-old enterprise, owned by spouses Gayle Martin and Michael Riahi, will be expanding its offerings with butchered meats in addition to the charcuterie, soups and sandwich options. The new location is 1,100 square feet, compared to the 700-square-foot space in New York.
“We know the back story of every item we sell. If cheese, meat, bar of chocolate or jar of jam,” Martin said. “Our primary focus of cheese.”
Walking in to meet the legendary “Rosie” of Rosie New Canaan, I had full clarity within 30 seconds as to what has made this uber delicious global comfort food spot so beloved for 16 years. Sure, it’s the 2 pound blueberry muffins that could make a grown man weep, and the love that goes into the 6 hour stewed black beans in Rosie’s hueveos rancheros, but truly it is Rosie Bonura herself that makes this place feel like home (but with far better fare than you’d find in your own kitchen). She herself is the perfect recipe of creative energy, passion, and love for her community. This New Canaan fixture, whom I came to realize, after sitting streetside with her, knows everyone in the town by name, came racing out of the kitchen to greet me (we’d never met in person), virtually hugged me, (cuz’ Covid), and said “I need to get a batch of cookies out of the oven, I’ll be right back.”
Before Luke Venner debuted as Elm’s executive chef and partner, the New Canaan restaurant already had a following amongst townies, and there’s more than a good chance you heard Elm get name dropped as one of Fairfield County’s overall best. Five years later, it’s safe to say that Venner isn’t only hitting his stride, but he’s also having fun developing Elm’s dishes from what they once were. Once thought of as being, dare I say, “fancy,” Elm, under Venner, is approachable.
The “seasonal New American” theme still exists, and it’s still a tough table to snag on a peak dine out day. The differences at Elm are now presented in the form of comfort. Sure, there are menu holdovers like tuna (or steak) tartare but if you’ve taken a half decade break from eating here, you won’t recognize it for what it once was.
